Feeler gauge?? Won't the feeler gauge flex the blade over as you slip it
between? I push on my blade (CMT combo blade) a smidge and I see my
indicator swing like mad (even though the flex is not visible to the eye).
Not if you learn how to use one .. .. .. a rare skill in this day of
digital-mania !! The skill of "feeling" the drag on a feeler gauge is
the secret to it's use. BTW, that's how the "feeler gauge" got it's
name .. .. .. you FEEL the drag.
When I first got my tablesaw I checked and set the alignment only
by setting a combination square body up against the miter slot and
extending the blade til it just kissed the frontmost tooth of the blade.
Turn the blade til that same tooth is at the rear, then move the combination
square back, adjust until the blade makes same degree of contact with
same tooth at the rear. A little time consuming perhaps but effective. IIRC
I read of this method in Kelly Mehler's Tablesaw book. After I got
a dial indicator and rechecked the saw it was within a few thousandths.
Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
If he's actually 1/4" out, he should be able to eyeball it. Extending
the blade on a try-square and dropping its frame into the miter slot
will get him even closer.
Once he gets it -that- close, he can start casting about for a way to
bring it on home. But if he can't get it straight by eye, then he's got
more problems than a TS-Aligner can help him with.
I think you know that I'm all in favor of using indicators when
appropriate. But until he can get it as close as the try-square --or
even the screw on a stick-- will allow, he isn't ready for an indicator.
When you first posted, you said that this just happened. It was suggested
then that you check to be sure that nothing is broken or loose. Have you
checked? Alignment problems like this don't just happen.
I use both my square to measure from the miter track and dial guage to check
the sawblade for trueness.
I got my dial gauge and magnetic mount from Harbor Freight both for $16 on
sale. It works just great. It was made in China, but so what , the TS
Aligner was probably made there too. I also mounted my gauge on a piece of
hard wood that fits in the miter gauge track and by doing this I was able to
slide the gauge forward and backward.
Most notebook papers ~.003" ... but this sort of measurement doesn't
care how thick the paper is as long as he uses the same piece of paper
for both front and back measurement. We don't care how big the gap is
... only that it is the same front to back. That is enough to establish
parallelism. For that matter, he could also use the shank end of a drill
bit as his feeler stock.
Hi, just to follow up on this (I'm the OP)--I wound up sending it back
to Grizzly. They were very easy to deal with and paid shipping. I
still don't know what the problem was, but I'm glad I can have some
experts take care of it for me. Thanks to everyone for the advice and
RayV, you may have hit the nail on the head! I was just starting to
wonder if I needed to loosen something to allow the movement I need. I
think that may be the issue. I'll try it out and report back.
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