As posted by Bob S. many, many moons ago...
Just thought I'd pass this along to those that have been
in aligning the blade parallel to the miter slot on these
contractor saws. They may also apply to other Delta series
saws as long as
they have two tie-bars as part of the undercarriage.
I installed a new blade the other night and checked
alignment using my TS
Aligner Jr. and found that it was off by nearly 5
thousandths (front to
rear - using same tooth on blade as ref). Decided to align
and while doing
so, managed to snap a trunnion bolt !
Well, the saw was due for a good cleaning and lube anyway,
so I pulled out
the whole undercarriage mechanism. It was a fairly simple
and not nearly as difficult as I was anticipating. Luckily,
the bolt I
snapped was left with a few threads exposed and was easily
is no printed spec for these bolts in their literature so I
tech support and finally got connected with a very
knowledgeable and helpful
individual (Ron as I recall).
He said a grade 5 bolt (same size) will do - but add lock
washers to each of
the four trunnion bolts as long as I have it apart. These
maintain the alignment. There also is no spec for how tight
should be but "good 'n snug and not over-tightened" is all
that's needed he
said. The trunnion bolts are not marked with a grade number
and using a
grade 5 means that I probably will never be able to snap the
bolt again, it
will most likely strip out the threads in the base before it
breaks. So a
word of caution - tight enough is one turn before it strips
or snaps -
wherever that is !
Considering that I was using a 6" long 1/2" box wrench and
was not leaning
on it when it snapped, the original bolts are definitely not
Now for the interesting part. Delta faxed me a two sheet
describes how to do this alignment. It's called "Blade
Instructions for Original Contractors-Type Saws (when the
saw has two
Tie-Bars)". Pages are marked CS07 and CS07a and are not in
the manual. I've
included the instructions below but since binaries are not
this ng, I didn't scan the diagram.
Here's the procedure (minus diagram) as faxed to me: (unplug
the saw first)
I've added a note or two to help which are denoted by (My
1. Raise the sawblade to it's maximum height and mark one
tooth, at the
front of the blade as a reference.
2. Using a combination square, measure from the left edge of
miter gauge slot to the sawblade tooth that was marked in
step 1 (Note this
measurement). Then rotate the blade to the rear and measure
from the same
marked tooth to the miter slot. (Note this measurement).
IF the two measurements are NOT the same, proceed with step
Note: refer to parts diagram on the following page for part
(My note...this is the step I never knew had to be done, nor
have I ever
heard anyone mention it before.)
3. Remove the sawblade. (Remember, it is still at it's
4. Place a flat plate (or similar flat object) on top of the
(The size of the plate should be at least 6" by 8", and the
better). Depress one corner of the plate and if it rocks,
the tie-bars are
not parallel. This must be corrected as it will affect the
alignment of the
To make the Tie-Bars parallel:
5. Loosen the tie-bar locknuts (2ea. ref #245) located at
the rear of the
6. Grasp the motor bracket (ref #244) and move it left
and/or right. Check
the rocking of the flat plate and when it can no longer
rock, the tie-bars
are parallel...re-tighten the locknuts.
Aligning the saw undercarriage:
7. Remove the flat plate and re-install the sawblade.
8. Loosen the front trunnion bolts (2ea. ref #207) and the
bolts (2ea. ref #243).
9. Move the entire undercarriage around while measuring as
in step 2.
10. When the two measurements are the same, re-tighten the
trunnion bolts (ref #207).
11. Before tightening the rear trunnion bolts, push forward
on the rear
trunnion bracket to allow the undercarriage to snugly fit
between the two
12. Re-check the blade to miter slot measurement and if they
equal, re-tighten the rear trunnion bolts (ref #243).
13. If the blade to miter slot measurements have changed,
repeat steps 8
.........................................End of Delta
Without a diagram to look at this may be confusing but I
suspect most of us
never thought about the tie-bar alignment steps 5 & 6. If
these are not
parallel to each other then you can tap / hammer /
and swear at it
until the cows come home and it will never align correctly.
Move the blade
down) then recheck alignment and you will find that
you're out of
alignment again ! You must keep the trunnion brackets tight
to the rest of
I'm off to find some grade 5 bolts, lockwashers and a flat
maybe if I can't find a steel plate of some sort). I'll be
aligning tonight. If I find a better or easier way, I'll
make a follow-up
post and let you know what I did.
If you try to contact Delta tech support, (800) 438-2486
you'll most likely
get a busy signal like I did for two days. Finally
contacted HQ at (901)
668-8600 and they paged tech support for me and he was on
the line in less
than a minute. Course I was nice to the sweet young thing
that answered the
call, told her I'd been trying for two days and could she
help - sure 'nuff
I'll ding Delta for not including these procedures in the
manual or at least
posting them on their web site but tech support (Ron) was
very helpful and
friendly. He also gave me a few tips on how to adjust the
(worm-gear) mechanism since mine is a bit to tight when
The worm-gear is pinned to a shaft that goes thru another
has an off-center hole bored thru it. By loosening the nut
worm-gear end, the shaft (with the off-center bore) can be
adjusts the gear meshing clearance between the worm-gear and
mechanism. Confusing explanation but when you look at the
will be clear to you.
Hope all the above is useful to someone and provides a
better explanation on
why we're having problems when making the blade to miter
Said I would follow-up if I had anything more to add to my
Just finished aligning the saw - the Delta procedures work
as advertised -
follow them exactly.
I know I'm being a bit anal over 5 thousandths but it was
more of a
curiosity of "why" it couldn't be adjusted out. No matter
what I had done
previously, it would come out close but never dead-on. Was
it me, or just
the machining tolerance ?
The problem was the adjustment of the tie-bars not being
parallel. I used
an 8" sanding disk (minus the sanding paper of course) as
the flat plate
they want you to use in the alignment procedure - see
original post above.
The lock nuts on the tie-bars are 15/16th's and they sure
are on there
tight. Had to use an 18" strong-arm bar to break them
loose. Did exactly as
the procedure called for and the alignment came out dead-on.
hell out of me too !
Now when you do the alignment (blade parallel to miter
slot), you truly can
loosen all 4 trunnion bolts (leave just slightly snug) and
undercarriage around to make the adjustment. No more 2x4's
as levers and
whacking the hell out of the undercarriage to coax it into
Simply tap (rubber mallet or use your fist if you like pain)
undercarriage and when front and back measurements are
equal, snug 'em up
good but don't over do it (as I did which has lead to this
Ran the blade up and down, changed blade angle, made some
saw dust and
remeasured - still dead-on ! Never even came close to
measurements before this, so I'm a real happy camper.
May as well align the fence to the miter slot while you're
at it too. I
have the TS Aligner so it's easy and accurate but the
procedure in the
manual works well also.
Will it improve my cuts any - Yes ! Ripped a piece of maple
and no burn
marks at the end anymore. Could be the new Freud blade but
I tend to think
it was the alignment that made the difference.
Only addition to the procedure I would make is to be sure
the blade is at 90
deg to the table when doing the alignment which isn't stated
I did make a slight modification to the front trunnion bolts
that you may be
interested in doing to make life easier. If you ever tried
tightening the front trunnion bolts then you know how
difficult it can be to
get to them - not to mention the skinned knuckles.
While I was at the nut's and bolts place looking for a
replacement bolt for
the one I snapped, I came across a bin of couplers, 2" long
Idea came to mind. Why not get a short section of threaded
and two couplers and make "extended stud bolts" for the
front trunnion ?
Bought a section of threaded rod, some inside star-washers
and some flat
I cut two sections of the threaded rod 2 5/8" long to for
the studs. I
wanted the threaded rod to go into the table as far as
possible (5/8") and
2" into the coupler to help stiffen the whole thing.
If you have the entire undercarriage out as I did, you need
to put the
undercarriage in-place first, then insert the stud bolts
sections). If not, then simply replace the front bolts one
at a time with
the "extended studs". Put a flat washer and a star washer
on the stud and
run the couplers on up till they're good 'n snug.
Now it's a simple matter to use an open-end 1/2" wrench to
get at those
front trunnion bolts. No more fiddling with a socket and an
finding the bolt heads. You can now see them and get to
Delta - ya listening ?
I was initially worried that the right front coupler would
the blade tilt mechanism by using a 2" long coupler, there
is still plenty
of clearance and clears the trunnion by a good 1/2" or so
when the blade is
tilted the full 45 deg. The left coupler - no problems on
As I mentioned in the original post, my blade height
adjustment was a bit to
tight compared to other saws I've tried. Adusted the
about 1/8th of a turn and that blade now goes up and down
real nice and
smoothe. You'll know when the adjustment is right cause it
right". You don't want it to loose or there will be to much
slack in the
gear mesh - just play with it a bit and you'll know what I
So ends the story... and on a happy note too. Now I can get
back to making
sawdust and stop playing mechanic. Have to make 3
double-hung windows for
my shed (the place where my lathe is going to be....8>)