True "above router table" bit changes

[Darryl Tunesi]

[Darryl Tunesi]

Leon wrote

I just think that if I'm starting from scratch (re: equipment) I might as well make it as convenient as possible from the start and also If I can keep most (if not all) operations above the table I might be able to enclose the lower section for dust collection.

[Leon]

Well, I am glad you answered my question and ask you to consider this. Have you ever heard that the best way to determine where to place side walks is to not put in side walks until you see the paths that people actually take and then add the sidewalks over those beaten paths?

While most people cite that the reason for having above table height adjustments is so that they do not have to stoop over and reach under the table, I have to counter with the fact that you have to stoop over to sight and zero the bit with the top of the table to determine a starting point for the above table adjustment anyway. Additionally, I always make adjustment and test the results rather than rely on a measured adjustment so I really do not want for a measuring adjustment mechanism.

With the Triton it is true you have to use the switch to be able to raise the bit high enough to change it. You do not have to use the switch to turn the router on and off during normal operation.

If you want to enclose the bottom for dust collection, put a door in rather than a fixed enclosure. Keep in mind that depending on which router operation you are performing that dust collection is not always possible. Very often you simply cannot catch all the dust. This is especially true if you are using a pattern bit or style bit on curved surfaces.

Most better routers these days come with electronic speed control built in. It is recommended however that you not use an external speed control with these routers. With that in mind, you still have to reach under and adjust the speed if you buy a router with built in speed control. You can however still use an external switch for turning the router on and off.

Keep in mind also that if you did already have a router and were considering a new router or adding a router lift that the typical router lift will cost as much if not more that a new router with the built in under table router lift capabilities. I would rather have the extra router than the expensive lift.

Considering all that I have mentioned, of the time you spend working with your router you will probably only spend 1 to 2 percent of that time, changing bits and adjusting the bit height. Whether you adjust the bit height from above or below the time spend doing so is very minimal in many cases compared to actually time spent routing.

Just a few things for you to consider which may or may not fall into line with the way you are thinking.

Or you may be like me and simply want the absolute best "in some cases" regardless of the expense to improvement ratio. :~) We all have our priorities, I just thought I would add some observations for you to consider in case you have not gotten that far yet.

Good luck with what ever you decide on.

[DJ Delorie]

Um, no? I never do this, I have a dial indicator for zeroing. Even for rough zeroing, I use a steel ruler and just lower the bit until the ruler doesn't hit it any more.

I've never stooped at my router table. I can even reach the switch on the router without stooping.

[Leon]

Well there you go. You learn something every day.

Actually, when I was making that comment I was picturing zeroing/having a starting reference point on a bit that resembles a raised panel bit, round over bit, Ogee bit, etc. Basically a bit that you may want to zero in at a particular portion on the profile as a stopping point that is not at the top or bottom of the cutting area.

Thanks for pointing out the other instance. I actually use that method also.

[the_tool_man]

Darryl:

I've tried two of the newer routers with built-in height adjustment. The first was a Freud 1700. It was a piece of crap. If you do a search, you can find my detailed rant about it, but in a nutshell, it just isn't sturdy enough for daily use. When the motor failed, I sent back under warranty. They replaced it for free, but the replacement is just as bad as the first one. I have since bought a Milwaukee 5625 and a Woodpecker router plate. This system works much better. You do have to reach the collet wrenches into the table at an angle, and with larger bits, you can't really change them from above the table. However, the router plate lifts out of the table easily enough for those times the bit can't be changed from above.

The built-in height adjustment seems to be the weak link for most of these newer routers. If mine fails, I'll probably buy the Woodpecker Router Lift for my 5625 router body and be done with it. Then, I'll get better above-table bit changes, too. Good luck.

Regards, John.