On my delta contract saw with forest blade, besides adding link belt I wired it for 220 and made all the difference in the world ripping think hardwood. No more blown circuits etc.
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15 years ago
Thin-Kerf Blades
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15 years ago
My 12+ year old JET contractor began popping the reset button on the motor even when cutting plywood, much more so ripping 2Xs. After 12 years of running it on 115v I finally wired it for 240v. It hasn't tripped since. Additionally, I put the 24t thin-kerf rip blade back (vs. the Jesada 50t General) on (sans stabilizers) just to rip a bunch of 2X.. The lack of stabilizers was noticeable in the cut quality.
Dave in Houston
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15 years ago
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15 years ago
Could it be that the windings that were used at 120V were damaged from 12 years of use and the windings used ay 240V are still good? IMO, there is no doubt that then kerf blade uses less energy. Also, my experience is that a rip blade uses less energy than my WWII. I carelessly let sawdust plug the ventilation slots on my motor and while ripping the posts on a pencil post bed, damaged my motor. Maybe I will put it back to 120V to see if it makes a difference. I'm thinking about putting a 2hp motor I salvaged from a compressor that I had and see how it runs on my Delta CS.
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15 years ago
I hope not. I took the motor to a small electric motor shop here in northwest Houston to have him go through it.
Dave in Houston
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15 years ago
Resistance will vary with design and sharpness of blade.
The motor is turning the face of the cutter
Not necessarily, this doesn't happen unless feed rate is high enough to bog down the saw.
If the same motor has 1/2 the area
Why is that? What is the reasoning behind this assertion?
OK then, how about a 2" long 18 gauge brad compared to a 2" long 15 gauge finish nail? If driven with a hammer, which is more likely to go straight into the wood?
All that aside, my own experience with a 1.5hp contractor saw (Delta) is better cuts with a regular than a thin kerf blade. However, for me, the biggest attaction of a regular kerf blade is simply that the cut is
1/8" wide instead of 3/32 or some metric or arbitrary fraction as some I've seen.- Vote on answer
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15 years ago
cleaned the bearings and got the sawdust out of the fan. might have changed the bearings from open to closed just so you don't come back with a new problem.
The 120 winding is two windings in parallel. In 220, the windings are in series.
Mart>>>> On my delta contract saw with forest blade, besides adding link belt I
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15 years ago
If you went metric it would do away with those problems and you could go back to simple mental arithmetic what ever the kerf width. ;-)
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15 years ago
Yeah, making it 3.175 millimeters is going to be a BIG help.
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15 years ago
How would 5.556 mm be easier to do in your head? ;~)
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15 years ago
Isn't that .223 [cal.]?
Dave in Houston
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15 years ago
I have the 40 tooth WWII. It was definitely a mistake. I am utterly amazed at how much faster the thin kerf 24T freud blade cuts with zero burn.
It might be my imagination, but I think the easier cutting contributes to a straighter cut. If you have to use more force, the whole blade/wood geometry gets strained which can cause a bad cut. I've noticed this doing a miter cut on wood hand held to the miter gauge (as opposed to clamped to a sled).
Mitch
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15 years ago
After 30 years of doing this seriousely, I'll keep my 40 thooth for 99% of my cuts.
It might be my imagination, but I think the easier cutting contributes to a straighter cut. If you have to use more force, the whole blade/wood geometry gets strained which can cause a bad cut. I've noticed this doing a miter cut on wood hand held to the miter gauge (as opposed to clamped to a sled).
For a typical cut the think kerf may in deed yield good results, probably not better than a regular kerf blade, all things being equal. Start making compound miter cuts through 2" thick stock and you will probably see the advantage of regular kerf vs. thin.
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15 years ago
thin kerf blades help on an underpowered saw... use a blade stabiliser with it... I use a forrest thin kerf wwii, and a forrest stabiliser - it's a superflat disc. do NOT use the stabiliser "cups" - they're awful
shelly
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15 years ago
and keep your carbide blade tips and sawblade clean
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15 years ago
This is one of those "hot-button" things like religion and politics. My heretical advice to anyone considering a thin-kerf (~3/32) blade is, "Go ahead and try it. If you like the results, ignore the nay-sayers and enjoy. If you don't, then stop using it. Simple as that!"
I've never used anything but thin-kerf blades on my 3HP cabinet saw which I don't consider to be "underpowered" in the least. Have never used a blade stabilizer other than the standard issue arbor washer. On my well aligned saw with a jointed edge against the fence, I can make glue-line quality cuts all day. Don't see how a thicker blade can improve on that.
Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA