I've been woodworking for quite a while (20+years) and must be getting
dumber. This sounds crazy but it's real and I'd like some useful advice on
causes and cures.
Lately when I rip I end up with the good piece having a concave edge on
both solid and plywood. The curve is noticable when it's laid on edge on
the table saw table. I've tried with and without a feather board and
splitter. The fence is square to the miter slot (as best as i can tell with
an adjustable square) and the blade seems to be also - using the same
method. What I've noticed is that the board creeps away from the fence
after it is cut. I've tried putting pressure on the board so it's up
against the fence as it enters the blade. Nothing I've tried seems to help.
The curve is noticable on ~2' pieces and larger. I don't remember having
this problem earlier in my woodworking hobby. What do I need to start /stop
doing -- hints?
Sounds like a set up problem to me.
If you are working alone is work piece fully supported by runout
table(s) during cut?
The following assumes that trunnion provides a parallel blade mounting
surface to miter slot.
1- Make sure your blade is parallel to miter slot on T/S.
2- Make sure your fence is parallel to miter slot on T/S.
3- Make sure your blade is perpendicular to the table.
4- Make sure the splitter is working properly and INSTALLED.
All these tests can be performed using an inexpensive dial indicator
and some home made jigs.
Good luck and have fun.
;~) Well hopefully your fence is not square to the slot, it should be
parallel. But that is probably what you meant.
What condition is your saw in? Could worn bearings be a possibility.
Secondly you mention that the edge is concave, is that bowed along its
length or is the middle of the cut deeper than the top and bottom sides
of the material?
Are you using a think kerf blade? If it is a very likely culprit
especially if it is not sharp.
Are you buying quality lumber? Case hardened wood will bow after being
cut although this does not explain the problem with plywood.
My first guess is that you are using a think kerf blade and that is
giving you problems.
What I've noticed is that the board creeps away from the fence
Roughly speaking, "kerf" refers to the thickness of the saw blade. One
may be able to cut faster with a "thin kerf" blade or make due with a
less powerful saw by using thin kerf blades. They are, of course, more
flexible. Based on my very limited experience, this is a big negative,
and I'm not planning to purchase any more thin kerf blades unless the
application calls for it (cutting veneer or similar).
Combined with the Parallel square problem, so did I.
There were so many serious answers to my questions, I think I understand
how these discussion can go on forever. People are answering what they
think was written not what was written.
The stress is coming out of the wood when you cut it. Not sure what
you can do to prevent it. I generally cut oversize and then run it
through the jointer/planer to true it up when I run into the problem
on a batch of lumber.
No, that's not the problem. It [apparently] happens every time, including when he cuts
plywood, which clearly points to a problem either with setup and alignment, or with
technique. Surely not *all* of the wood that he rips is stressed in the same manner and
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