Ok - I think I've lost it. I just noticed that ripped boards have a concave
curve on the ripped side. Boards over 18" long are ~ 1/64" narrower in the
middle than the ends. Feather board doesn't seem to make a difference.
Maybe a crooked feed? Mechanical adjustments to the saw? Fence seems square
enough to the blade - no burn marks - just a clean concave cut.
It could be your technique or the saw needing a tune-up as you suspect.
It could also be case hardened boards.
Try running a piece of ply or MDF thru the saw and see
if you still have the problem. If not then it's likely that the wood is
| Ok - I think I've lost it. I just noticed that ripped boards have a
| curve on the ripped side. Boards over 18" long are ~ 1/64" narrower
| middle than the ends. Feather board doesn't seem to make a
| Maybe a crooked feed? Mechanical adjustments to the saw? Fence seems
| enough to the blade - no burn marks - just a clean concave cut.
Using a splitter? If so, adjust it slightly toward the fence.
DeSoto, Iowa USA
Check that your fence is straight. My Bies fence has plywood faces with
T-molding inserted into a routed groove. The pressure of the molding is
enough to make the edges of the ply stick out slightly more than the
main face. Eventually I'm going to deal with this (probably have to
peel off the original faces, trim it, then put laminate on there) but
haven't gotten around to it yet.
I wouldn't get too bent out of shape on a rip that was 1/64th off over
18", as long as it didn't get appreciably worse over longer width's.
Definitely go through full tablesaw alignment procedure, and don't
discount the possibility of your boards being slightly bowed _before_
you ripped them.
Often wrong, never in doubt.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
Well it is a problem when you want to edge glue without using the jointer.
Turns out the alumimum fence face was bent. Exchanging it with the other
side solved the problem.
email@example.comNoOnSePsAtMar.org (Larry W) wrote in
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