On Fri, 02 May 2008 21:06:29 +0000, Scott Lurndal wrote:
I think he would be better of improving the finish of the cuts with a
good blade vs working on a system to finish the cuts.
I had a combination Craftsman (unknown model came with the saw and the
bulk of the print was worn off) that gave cross cuts a polished glass
finish. This is he wants in the first place, might as well start with it.
This situation screams for the use of a bench plane and shooting board.
There is a clip in the subscription section of the FWW site and there are
tons of other references on the web and in books and magazines...
The upside of using a shooting board over something like a Lion Trimmer is
the bench place can be used for myriad other tasks.
Dick, the problem with sanding or trimming a miter cut after cutting to
length on a saw is that it ends up being too short. If you sand, you have
to determine how much to over cut and how much to sand off, it's a crap
shoot at best unless you have a stop to sand to a particular distance.
I suggest a Dubby Miter Sled or the new Rockler Sled.
To cut a clean miter you need a sharp and a good quality regular width kerf
blade. The Forrest WWII works well for this purpose. You also need to be
certain that opposite parallel pieces are precisely the same length or they
will never fit together tightly regardless if you are cutting dead on 45 or
Because the pieces have to be precisely the correct "LENGTH" sanding will
almost always change the length of the piece of wood.
I've found the best method for me is to glue up two joints 180 degrees from
each other then trim as needed after the glue dries to get the last two
joints the best you can get then glue them and move on. We woodworkers
inspect things on a level that won't be viewed after the painting and glass
This is another place where the shooting board is handy... if pieces aren't
exactly the same length, or not perfectly straight, the miters can be
adjusted by using paper shims to adjust the position of the stock on the
I posted a couple photos of cutting and shooting miters on ABPW that show
how a shooting board would be used for this purpose.
Thanks for your thoughtful replies as always. This group is the BEST.
Based on your replies I have decided to buy a better blade for my SCMS (I
will order it today) - I am getting the Forrest Chopmaster as I have had
such great results with the Forrest Woodworker II on my table saw. I am also
going to make a sled with a stop block based on the picture I saw on Karl's
website. This will give me a couple of choices for how to do my work in the
future. I will finish my current project with the new blade. I have some
other stuff to do while I wait for the Forrest blade to show up.
I have found that I can get exact lengths on the opposite sides by
fastening the opposite sides together and trimming both ends.
I uses a triangle miter gauge for the cuts and a staple gun to fasten
the opposite sides together. I cut one end of the two sides, reverse
the triangle miter gauge on the table and cut the other end.
In essences the you are cutting the miters on both sides of the square.
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