I think he would be better of improving the finish of the cuts with a good blade vs working on a system to finish the cuts.
I had a combination Craftsman (unknown model came with the saw and the bulk of the print was worn off) that gave cross cuts a polished glass finish. This is he wants in the first place, might as well start with it.
but don't use the tapered side to try and square up anything - the taper will assure un-square joints.
Hi guys,
Thanks for your thoughtful replies as always. This group is the BEST.
Based on your replies I have decided to buy a better blade for my SCMS (I will order it today) - I am getting the Forrest Chopmaster as I have had such great results with the Forrest Woodworker II on my table saw. I am also going to make a sled with a stop block based on the picture I saw on Karl's website. This will give me a couple of choices for how to do my work in the future. I will finish my current project with the new blade. I have some other stuff to do while I wait for the Forrest blade to show up.
Dick
I have found that I can get exact lengths on the opposite sides by fastening the opposite sides together and trimming both ends.
I uses a triangle miter gauge for the cuts and a staple gun to fasten the opposite sides together. I cut one end of the two sides, reverse the triangle miter gauge on the table and cut the other end.
In essences the you are cutting the miters on both sides of the square.
To the contrary, the tapered side is what is meant to be used. One has to tilt the arbor so that the taper is vertical; doing so means that the wood can be fed into the disk without catching on the edge of the plate. Additionally, the taper provides only one point of contact for the wood which means all sanding will be linear and parallel to the direction of feed rather than circular.
If you use the tapered side with the arbor tilted you end up with a "Hollow Ground" surface.
That would depend solely upon how uniformly the stock is fed.
Yeah, you're right.
Keith,
I have never heard of a triangle miter gauge. Do you mean a miter gauge set to 45 degrees where you cut one side of the pair and then the other?
Dick
Soo... how come the 'point' of the ply triangle hasn't got a blade kerf cut into it? Never been used, or does it just not show up in the pictures?
Or am I missing something about how it should be used?
It has a kerf, a bit hard to see but it is there. Additionally there is not much need to cut much past the actual stock you are mitering so the kerf need not be very far into the "point".
Yeah, I just made the sled to hang on the wall of the shop and look pretty ... art, doncha know..
A better monitor?
That's kinda what I figured... ;-)
Well, in my defence the picture had to be squeezed an awfully long way down the tubes.
Don't mind me, I'm just jealous. My 'shop' is a UK-sized one car garage - about 17'x8'. And it's not all for my sawdust generators either.
LOL ... that'll indeed make a difference. (actually, if you look closely you can see the "vanishing magic kerf" in the second picture. It appears to be hidden by the edge of the plexiglass guard in the first picture. As Leon said, there is no need to cut much further past the "point", so it's not like a regular cutoff sled in that respect.)
BTDT, and in the UK, AAMOF ... (built some of my "just married" furniture in an 8 x 8 garden shed in Staines, Middx).
Now, I've got about twice that space (18 x 18), which seemed like a luxury in comparison ... for all of about ten minutes. I have plans (depending upon whether, in retirement, one prefers eating to having a bigger shop.) to build a 20 x 36 shop. I'm sure it won't take long to make even that seem inadequate.
Undercutting isn't necessarily a bad thing, such as when you're trimming an old out-of flat window case.
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