I use BIN under all my cabinet rehabs and finishing that have opaque
(paint, high resin enamels, etc.) coatings as a final finish. It is
shellac based with zinc oxide added for stain blocking and color bleed
control. It works like a champ for recoats and color changes in all
opaque finishes. It also makes a dandy sanding sealer.
Since it is white, I tend to use it like this: Sand your project to
the desired grit. If you apply the white sealer on the sanded
project, under a light you will see every single defect with ease when
you sand. You can then sand them off, and recoat with the sealer.
Depending on your feathering technique when spot touching, you will
only have to reseal the spots you sanded.
Use seal coat under clear or translucent finishes as for all intents
and purposes in this discussion it is clear. In contrast to the BIN
which sprays out white, this goes on clear and you can easily see the
grain of the wood under it after application. It is a good sealer and
to me the best choice for clear or tinted lacquers, varnishes,
shellacs, polys, etc.
Think about it this way:
Top coats of paint or other paint-like coatings that obscure the grain
of wood: BIN.
Everything else: SealCoat.
As far as the colors of poly go, I can't say for sure. I know they
used to have a Mahogany kind of finish at SW, as well as that
gawdawful white pickled stuff. After that, unknown.
Don't be afraid of the Minwax. When properly applied, it works just
fine. I know it doesn't bring out the inner craftsmen in the guys
that are trying to connect to the ancient woodworkers of the past, but
it works well.
You can try it on some scrap with your equipment, then if you don't
like it, take it back to the store and get your money back. THAT is
something you won't get at a SW, Benjamin Moore, etc. You buy it and
open it, it's yours.
Well, since you opened this can of worms,
I might as well ask about "water based poly".
It occurs to me that it should be able to
handle colors even better ???
I know that sounds a little too logical
but finish chemistry ain't been my strong
point, so I thought I would ask.
I got nothin' on water based finishes. I know they are the future,
but I figure that as long as I have to wear all the gear and take all
the precautions I do when applying finishes, I will go with my
favorites which are all solvent based..
I have almost no experience with water based finishes. I didn't like
the look of the finishes, the cleanup, or the inability (on my part
anyway) to fine tune to the exact spray characteristics of my guns.
The experiences I had were not good, so went to other solvent based
products to find a solution rather than pursuing a water based
I know that many professionals use the MLC brands water borne products
(like BARRY when he is here), and others I have been in contact love
the ML Cambell (sp?) brands. They swear by them.
At this time, not my cup of tea.
No direct experience; however, a fellow boat builder in CT tells me
that water based finishes have come a long way in the last 5 years,
and he is using them in marine applications.
Since this is an outdoor application, might want to take a look at
Cetol which is used on teak trim on boats as an alternate to varnish.
Does provide an orange cast which may be objectionable.
I'm gonna need a "colored" finish on these
old deck chairs. They started out life as
some sort of white and have been stripped
and painted a time or two.
The last stripping was a couple of years
ago and I just never got around to the
finish. Some sort of colored finish is in
Lew Hodgett wrote:
Do a Google on "Cetol", then take a trip to your nearest West Marine
and pick up some data sheets.
My bet is if you had lunch in Oceanside and then walked the docks, you
would find several Cetol boats in the slips.
If you mean "OceanSide, CA.", I'm a
pretty good distance from there.
I'm 3 blocks from the ocean in Myrtle
Beach, S.C. and OceanSide has been the
name of my business for 28 years.
I own two boats and I'm familar with
Cetol, which is a fine product.
Lew Hodgett wrote:
I've used it with oil-based primer and alkyd enamel to good effect. I
thinned it just enough to shoot, to minimize runs on vertical
surfaces. The self-leveling properties of the paint covered my
technique. I was shooting interior "gates" with a lot of open work.
Would use my el-cheapo HVLP if I had large surfaces to coat.
I've also used it with shellac. Makes me an even bigger fan of
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
Thses look like they might fit the bill for me. Since I do mostly
scroll saw and turning work, the smaller pattern would work well. I
especially like the idea of being able to just swap mason jars. And
this is way more in my budget and shop size ... lol.
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