I need a small workbench in my basement where I can do hand tool stuff in the wintertime.
What do you think about the leg design on this bench? It looks pretty good to me to build it as part of the top, but I thought I would check with the experts.
I think I'll make the two side A-Frames with 2X4s, and then make the butcher block for the inside (5' X 3') and glue (and maybe bolt) the three parts together. I don't see the point of all the screws, but maybe I'm missing something.
I have been seriously woodworking for, um er uh, since I was 23. It's now 40 years later. Woodworking was first a hobby and currently as a very small business for the last 20 years. I average 5 pieces of furniture per year.
I have touched, fondled, and dreamed of just about every type of work bench out there.
My 3 car garage is my shop and everything is on mobile bases.
The big bench is cool but in my experience even small benches can get in the way, so being able to move or remove the bench is very important to me. Many work benches end up being a catch-all.
My next bench will be this one, big but portable and easily stored away when not in use.
replying to Michael, Iggy wrote: I guess it's alright, m_a_y_b_e, if you're doing hand-sawing, carving and chiseling. But, I really don't like any of it nor would I keep it if someone gave it to me. I've never had a need nor desire in any case (including the above) whatsoever for a super-stupid heavy table.
And, the table-top aligned with the legs, edge legs? The dumbest design for ANY workbench! Nowhere to clamp, stub your toe hard enough and maybe slosh an open can of stain, shavings or grindings or drillings drop on the shelf instead of just the floor.
I've never had a problem with hardwood dining-room or metal frame office style tables that are very lightweight, have shouldered legs and therefore easily removable legs. If you go that video's route, glue and lots of screws is an absolute must for those softwoods.
You said small workbench, so I think the one in the video is significantly over kill.
Assuming small means a small work shop or work area, I think the most important criteria is light and portable. Obviously strength and durability are a concern.
I made my work bench on wheels, as my garage is my work shop. It was designed to be the same height as my table saw. With these two items moveable, I can arrange my work area to the best configuration for the job. If I am working on the car, the bench can be moved into a position relative to the car that is most convenient. If I am using the bench with the table saw it can become an out feed table saw for ripping or a staging area when I am cutting a lot of small parts. Since it is moveable I can work form all four sides of the project or rotate the whole thing to get the best light and access to the job at hand. When done with the project everything can be moved against a wall to maximize the space for the cars.
The bench is constructed of 2 X 4's with all half lapped joints for maximum strength. The top consist of a half lapped 2 X 4 frame, with a
3/4 inch piece of plywood that is let into the frame with a dodo on all edges. It has two shelves again with a 2X4 frame half lapped into the legs, and a 3/4 plywood. The ends are enclosed for storage of jigs, clamps and small tools. While my brother in law laughed at me because he thought I should paint it, I sanded and varnished the hole thing. The hard varnished surface wipes clean, and the vanish does not show stains and minor damage like paint.
This bench was constructed over 30 years ago and is as strong to day as it was when I completed it. The 2/4 frame around the top gives a good
3 inch edge for attaching clamps, yet is light.
If you are working on extremely heavy items, or doing a lot of large layout it may be inadequate but it works for me.
d to me to build it as part of the top, but I thought I would check with th e experts.
her block for the inside (5' X 3') and glue (and maybe bolt) the three part s together. I don't see the point of all the screws, but maybe I'm missing something.
Its a nice table with a shelf down below. But its not a woodworking workbe nch. Woodworking workbenches have vises on them to hold the wood so you ca n work with the wood. If you put a Record vise on one corner and a Veritas twin screw vise on the end, then you would have a good workbench.
My preference is not to clamp. I have a decent flat surface to glue the top (face down). It's not torsion box but it's not bad. I can make the butcher block top, then attach the A-frame sides with glue and maybe lag bolts. What do you think?
Russell@yahoo, I'm embarrassed to say how many unused table vices I have. When I see them at sales, I can't help but buy them if they're cheap.
I need a small workbench in my basement where I can do hand tool stuff in the wintertime.
What do you think about the leg design on this bench? It looks pretty good to me to build it as part of the top, but I thought I would check with the experts.
I think I'll make the two side A-Frames with 2X4s, and then make the butcher block for the inside (5' X 3') and glue (and maybe bolt) the three parts together. I don't see the point of all the screws, but maybe I'm missing something.
Thanks.
Can't believe this is still on Bernie Hunts web site but it is:
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This is one I made from a design in FWW magazine. Mine is still in use in my shop and has withstood the test of time an abuse. I added a Lee Valley end vice.
It's simple to make but solid as you'll ever need.
As I said, it's only a 3' x 5' top, and if kiln dried 2x4s, it's easily movable. But even if not, one could always assemble it upside down and then flip it upright.
Yes, heavier. But VERY expensive. 2' x 6' x 1.75" equals about 24 board feet. $329 divided by 24 equals $13.71 per board foot. I don't know what Cocobolo or Teak cost, but I bet they are pretty close to $13.71 per board foot.
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