Teflon Coated TS Blade Slipping

How do you tighten any other blade?

Every saw I've ever seen has a hex wrench to fit into the end of the shaft...

I have three of them and have never had a problem slipping. You just hold onto the blade with one hand and tighten the nut. Loosening the nut can be more difficult, but tightening...?

Have you tried a piece of wood dowel under the back of a tooth of the blade, jamming against the underside of the top of the TS? Stick it in a gullet and raise the blade tight against it.

It won't stop the arbor from turning, but the blade won't. at least not against a "handshake firm" tightening.

Regards.

Tom

Help me to understand here. Are you saying that your normal blade installation technique works with other blades but fails with the teflon coated blade? I have a freud teflon blade and a forrest blade (no teflon). I install both using the same technique and notice no issues at all with the teflon blade.

From your description, I gather the slightest hint that installing the blade may be a new experience for you.

Bob

How tight are you trying to make it? The blade will then to tighten when run, not loosen, so don't go too far. I've got a couple of those blades and don't have a problem at all in many change-overs.

What type of saw that the arbor cannot be held?

Do you have access to the vee-belt?

If so, either pinch it together or push against the motor to increase the belt tension around the sheave on the arbor which in turn increases belt/sheave tension while you tighten nut.

Lew

Firstly, I never felt the need to get the teflon coated blades, I just get the steel industrial equivalents... Ideally, nothing should touch the plate and the kerf provided by the carbide teeth should give it plenty of room.

Freehand cutting of green, pressure treated decking material that has been sitting out in the rain with a skilsaw is another matter... can't read the writing on the side of the blade anymore after a few seconds.

Anyway, I find that if I can't hand-tighten it (due to the pain caused by new, sharp carbide points) then a pair of thick leather gloves does the trick. There's also some kind of "wrench" for blade you can get

I think that says more about your experience than what is fact. My Sears saw certainly has no way to hold th arbor, in fact the end of the arbor is cone shaped.

Since the nut tightens against the saw with the rotation of the arbor, normally you don't need to tighten the nut much when putting a blade on the arbor. Certainly one could rough up the area of contact between the arbor washers and the saw blade.

You must have a really powerful motor if it doesn't stall instead of the arbor turning in the blade! You hit the solution with the sandpaper. Cut two disks 1/4-1/2" larger than the size of your arbor washers from from 600 wet/dry sandpaper and punch holes to make two paper washers, one for either side of the blade. If that doesn't hold it, throw the blade away.

Are you serious? You should not need to add anything like sandpaper. If anything, the paper might be create a problem, since one side of it is paper and relatively slippery. I think your comment is frivolous and inappropriate, as you're advising a guy to do something on a potentially dangerous machine.

Bob

I notice we are all talking to air. The OP disappeared after all the comments. Maybe he's done something dastardly with visegrips and an innner tube.

Bob

The Teflon is more for helping prevent the pitch from sticking behind the carbide teeth.

Just make the arbor nut as tight as you can by holding the blade with your hand or wedging a piece of wood between the blade teeth and the saw table top. It isn't necessary to tighten it any more than that, the first time you run the saw the natural reaction forces of the spinning blade will keep the nut tight enough.

the nut tight enough

Quite probably...I've avoided a lot of little hassles by being selective in purchases, no doubt.

I think I'd modify any saw that didn't to have some way to do so...

I ended up just tightening the nut by holding the belt tight and then gave it a little more by holding the blade still with a gloved hand, although it still slipped pretty easily. I fired up the saw and it cut well.

I've never used a teflon blade before so I'm not used to how easily it slips. With uncoated blades I just finger tighten the nut, pull the wrench towards me until it leans against the table top and pull on the blade a little until it's nice and snug.

Thanks for the help everyone.

JP

This ain't a chat room pal. JP

That's good. I've haven't entered a chat room since my Compuserve days.

Dave

Yeah right, BillyBob. Nobody should ever use cardboard or paper as shims in a dado, cause it is dangerous right? Might be too dangerous, start a fire, spin and not cut, make two wide a cut? :)

I think everybody pointed out that you shouldn't need to do anything, so hopefully he figured out what he was doing wrong. Hey, I'm sorry I gave advice to do something on a potentially dangerous machine. How about giving advice to NOT Do something on a potentially dangerous machine. Don't get in your car and put the key in the start mechanism! You are risking a terrible accident!

Um, piece of scrap jammed in between the teeth on the blade, and the tablesaw top? Tighten against that.