Larry Blanchard wrote in news:mfsg42$b6k$ snipped-for-privacy@speranza.aioe.org:
This is very dependent on how long the hole is. The force on the thread is taken over the whole linear length of the thread that's engaged - which when you do the math is probably quite a bit more than the length of your handle.
John
It looks like the hex shape carries all the way through the insert, leaving threads that are discontinuous inside. Is that correct? Does that cause the machine bolt to thread in less smoothly?
No, the hex is only about 3/16" deep. At leas with the flange style that I use. The machine bolts actually start threading more easily when aligning pieces together as the hex beginning section is slightly larger than the bolt.
The power driver goes in your drill and fits inside the hex section. The poser driver is pretty HD. Works much better than expected.
Click on the link to see the driver and the inside of the insert.
Simply predrill the appropriate size hole and then use the power driver to screw the in insert. Be sure do order the appropriate driver and while pricey it is easier drive inserts in with a drill rather than power it in with your wrist.
Lee Valley carries tools to insert the slotted inserts, using the slots:
They only have the inserts and drivers for 1/4-20 and 5/16-18.
I think using the treads is a better idea. I like the threaded rod and jam nut idea too (for alignment), but that requires a through hole.
The ones I've ised are only broached for the hex about one thread diamer deep.
snipped-for-privacy@zzz.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Why do you need a through hole? Use the threads in the insert as one nut and install another on top of it. I usually make my inserts flush or sunk slightly low, but if you want to really sink the insert you may need to make sure the jam nut is smaller than the insert.
If you need to turn the insert from higher up, use a longer length of threaded rod and a second jam nut assembly. If you can't reach the jam nut on the insert, you may try holding the lower nut on the upper assembly with a wrench and giving it a quick twist in the loosen direction. (A slow one will remove the insert.)
I've put in a couple dozen hanger bolts (wood thread on one side, machine on the other) using jam nuts. They can be used to not only insert the bolts but remove them as well.
Puckdropper
If you want a leader on the rod to help guide it into the piece, the hole has to be deeper than the insert (or through). If you don't want the leader, the threaded rod has no advantage over the tool. That was the point.
Not higher up. The proposal was that the treaded rod be used to guide the insert so it goes in straight.
Having installed probably close to 100 of these inserts, the correct size and depth hole to begin with pretty much assures that the insert will end up in the right direction. The holes are typically much larger than the rod that will thread into the center of the insert so the rod extending past the end of the insert, for guiding purposes, will be of little help. Just use the correct drive tool to begin with and the matter is handled.
I originally mentioned a threaded rod (or bolt) to Greg as a better way of inserting them rather than using a screwdriver, not as a guide. If one needs mechanical help in inserting them straight, chuck the rod in a drill press. Cautionary note: turn the chuck by hand, not power :)
Leon wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
I'll respectfully disagree with this. The slotted kind of insert in particular have very little lead before the start of the screw, and it's quite easy to start them crooked. Depending on how off from straight you are, it's possible for them to cut threads and seat off line (which will then make the machine screw you're trying to screw into it bind).
The hex kind usually have a little more lead before the start of the thread, and tend to start straight without needing quite as much care, altho there's still a level of skill to it.
John
Yes and that is fine but you certainly do not need the threaded rod to be a guide leading the insertion of the insert. ;~)
And with the proper driver bit a hand drill will work just fine. It is easy to hold the drill perpendicular to the hole while you let the drill do the driving work.
If you use the right driver tool and drill, with the slotted insert, it is much easier. The trick is to not use a screw driver and instead use the drill mounted driver. The driver mounted to the drill gives you a lot of leverage for starting it straight. Here is what you want.
EZLOK makes many different drill driver bits for specific sizes.
FWIW, no pictures here but this vendor lists the proper/appropriate power drive for the particular insert you are using. There are 6 different drivers listed for the slotted brass inserts that they offer.
While the drivers are a bit pricey but worth it, the insert pricing is pretty reasonable, given quantity purchased.
This might help.
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