Rollers, if they aren't perpendicular to the saw blade, can
be down right dangerous as they will pull the stock away or
towards the blade (dependant upon their alignment to the
If you insist on having something that rolls look at ball
casters. These can/will be expensive depending on how many
you feel you need.
Having said that, neither is necessary and both are a waste
of money. All you really need is a surface at the back side
of your table so the stock doesn't want to come up and meet
your chin once it's gone past the blade. Also, the
rollers/casters render the outfeed useless as a work surface
should you choose to need them as "extra" work surface for
I made my own of MDF and plastic laminate. I prefer a solid outfeed
vs. rollers because I can use it as an addition assembly surface when
needed. If you don't like MDF, use birch ply under the laminate.
For my dollar, MDF is great stuff for outfeeds, infeeds, assembly
tables, router table tops, shop cabinets, etc... Just because it's
cheap dosen't mean it's not usable.
My "working bench" in the shop is 4'x3' on wheels, built to be 5/8" below
the table saw height. When I need outfeed, I wheel it behing the saw and
top it with a piece of plywood. I guess I could incorporate a roller into
it but have never seen the need.
===============I have nothing against either Laminate or MDF...except neither look like
wood... and my shop is a woodshop...
My outfeed table (15 years old now) is Birch plywood...
with a finish of poly....trimed with scrap Cherry ...looks
great...functions great...and has lasted all these years ...
IT just looks like it belongs in a Woodshop ....
The HTC rollers work fine in my experience. But remember that they are
designed as a space saver and as such have limitations. One
improvement I would make is to add support at either outboard side.
With the single center support they tend to be tippy especially with
large sheet goods. You could add an auxiliary roller stand if needed
or simply prop up the corner with a stick. The rollers are parallel
and I have not noticed that they skew your work one way or the other.
However if you have the room make yourself a permanent outfeed table
as others have suggested. It's easy and cheap and much better. I
prefer a laminate surface.
I just got the Jet contractor saw with cast wings. After the delta benchtop
it's like going from a yugo to a Trailblazer. Anyway what's the best way to
make the miter slots in the outfeed table so they align up with the saws
make a straight true stick that fits snugly in the miter slot, long
enough to fill the miter slot and extend as far as you want the slot
in the outfeed table to go. you might need to cut relief in the bottom
of it to get it close enough to the outfeed table at the extreme end.
with that stick in place, set a couple of sheets of something- plywood
or mdf or whatever- up against it and clamp them down. pull the stick
out of the middle and use the resulting gap as a guide for a top
bearing router bit.
I made a similar jig but the 3/4" piece was 1 1/8" high and
set into the slot only at the table. This was then sided up
with two pieces which were then bis-qwiked into the piece
sitting in the slot. This left me with the 3/4" "open"
which was then routed with a pattern (bearing on
bottom/'tween the cutter and base) bit.
Two slight problems to watch for.
When slotting, be sure you stop away from the cast iron.
Don't Ask Me How I Know This. The tit that's left isn't
much to take off with a file or 60X backed up by a hard
Next, I'm not sure if the table moved or I got some seasonal
fluctuations but about six months later the outfeed slot was
off by enough that a sled runner would run in it. It was
only a matter of re-installing the jig and shaving off the
now offending "extra".
Which brings me to this. Just how long should you save a
one off jig?
It is semi-impressive to have a 3/4" (OK, make that 3/4"
heavy in my case) slot when you are done and not one of
those 1" wide slots you normally see.
UA100, whose 3/4" heavy isn't detectable by the neked eye...
see, that's why my jig is better than yours. ; ^ )
when I was done I simply returned the parts to stock. no one off jig
that said, I do have a number of "one off" jigs that have been in use,
modified and yes, stored for years.....
Bridger, whose 4x8 outfeed/assembly table has a heap of old jigs
Keeter and Bridger made their extension table slots match the tablesaw
slots... Got a question for you guys. Why make it fit? Is it a
testosterone thing? (G)
Mine are slightly oversize (Ar-ar-ar!) but the technique was sort of
similar to Bridger's. I butted the outfeed table up to the tablesaw,
marked the slot outline, moved the outfeed away from the tablesaw (forgot
this step, eh, Keith?), clamped a pair of scrap fences a tad more than 3-
1/4" away from each pencil mark and routed the slot. The 3 1/4" is
because I used a 1/2" straight bit and my router baseplate is 7". The
sled runners do their guiding in the tablesaw slots; the slots in the
outfeed table are just for clearance.
That yours, Pat? Looks like a unisaur under there. Mine (34-450, Nov '68)
only has 3/4" slots....
Jim, feeling decidedly undersized now (G)
Oh no, that there is a 12/14 that Pat, umm, "lucked" onto.
Go ahead, sharpen the goad and ask him what he paid for it.
I've got a pitcher of my Unisaw with O'Deen in the
background and he makes it look like a CompacTool key chain
table saw (similar to a Ryobi table saw for anyone not
interested in bad vintage machines).
The 34-350(The saw that the Unisaw wanted to be) is the
bigger boy in the family. It was built in 04/66 in Tupelo.
The average Unisaw comes in at a dainty 380 lbs, while the
12-14" comes in at 830 lbs. The 12-14 has a cast iron table
that is 38"x48". The miter guage comes in at 15lbs. The motor
is a standard 3hp single phase and it hits the scales at 120lbs.
The saw was purchased at auction last January for $165.
It ran the day I plugged it in with no additional work.
Any questions ???
Jim Wilson wrote:
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