I want to buy an outfeed table/rollers for my unisaw. I have seen both the
delta table and the HTC rollers. Are their others
HTC roller are not all parallel to each other. Some or up to 1/8 higher or
lower to the one infront
Delta table is made of cheap MDF and Angle iron
So which do you recommend?
I used ideas from Al Amaral (http://members.aol.com/Alamaral/Outfeed.html )
and Jim Becker (http://www.sawsndust.com/p-outfeed.htm ).
I think you can make a better one than you can buy (not to say that mine is
an example of this), and it will certainly be cheaper. I've been using mine
for about 9 months and it has been indispensible.
I pretty much used Al's and Delta's factory outfeed table for ideas on my
own too. I used 4'x4' piece of 3/4" melamine, a piece of piano hinge and a
couple pieces of 1/8"x1" angle iron for support, and a couple of 1" square
tube for legs.
Dude - make your own.
It just kills me when ppl ask - which (insert whatever here) should I buy??
When you can make your own to fit you need for cheaper in 99% of the cases.
I mean what do you plan on building w/ the tools anyways? If you cant build
an outfeed table - or a router table - or a drill press table - or what
ever - why would think that you can build a piece of furniture or whatnot?
Use your skills at those items first - and like Tom Platman says (and I
think of this almost anytime I build anything now after seeing his website)
learn to think - once you know how to do that - you can build anything.
I don't mean to gloat, but I have a retired hospital gurney to which I
added a plywood top covered with laminate. I can crank it up and down,
thus matching the table saw top. It normally sits behind the saw, but
if I need a really long outfeed table, I turn it long ways. It also
serves well as an assembly table!
I agree..here you sit with a Uni and you're too damn lazy to build your
own OF table for it. Hell, I built one for my lowly 64A and even
documented it for anyone else that might need the info. Not too sure
that I'd be asking you to make something for me if you can't even do
Buy a sheet of 3/4 inch MDF and a couple 2x4's and make your own. You can
even get creative and add a couple hinges so it folds down. Search Google
for folding outfeed and you should get some examples of others who have done
I used some leftover MDF and a couple of 2x4's and mine has been in service
for 8 years. I wouldn't spend a lot of money on one and those rollers
aren't all they are cracked up to be. I would rather have a solid surface.
On Sat, 6 Dec 2003 21:55:55 -0800, "Howard Ruttan"
I've been using a Record adjustable roller stand. The rollers are
better than nothing at all, but I need to build an outfeed table for
my PM66. I like the hinge, 2x4's, and MDF idea. I'd like to hear
what others have done, and what they would have done different. I
need a design that keeps the DC port easily accessible.
I have a PM66 saw and popped for the HTC outfeed table for it with the
rollers. Being by myself it would be impossible for me to rip a 4x8
sheet of anything withoutand outfeed table but I hate it. Their
design is lousy. It folds down nice enough to keep it out of the way
when not in use and it was easy to fasten to the saw but it is not
sturdy enough to keep from tilting ever so slightly and that causes
the rollers to pull the sheet goods away from the fence as it rolls
ahead. The rollers make it easy to move the sheet over the saw but
the sheet then has a mind of its own and fights you off as it attempts
to pull away from the fence because the rollers are functionally
crooked when the table tilts. I can loosen the mounting and align it
but it won't stay in alignment and only if perfectly aligned will it
work right. Rollers are simply the wrong thing for the job.. If you
do mainly sheet goods and want something slicker than flat table,
consider using a matrix of swivle balls so that there is no ability
for them to pull the sheet goods in any direction. I keep telling
myself I am going to rectify this problem one of these days but
usually I just fight it and make do. What I really need to do is take
the HTC roller table and see how well it would float in the nearest
rollers are fussy.they must be perfectly square to the blade or they
will pull the material in whatever directionthey are skewed in. table
are much better. I just installed a new beismier fence system to my
unisaw and built a side extention table for it. I used corian cause i
had some. if i can get some more when i do the outfeed table i will
use it for that too. skeez
IME, the rollers tend to pull the stock laterally, which can be a bear to
deal with. The ball roller types are better in that regard, but they mark
up soft stock and have gaps which introduces a new problem. A flat,
smooth surface is much better.
The only thing I'd add to Howard's suggestion is to do something to
reduce friction on the outfeed surface. You can shellac and wax MDF for a
cheap but effective solution. Melamine is another option, but it will
also need to be waxed eventually; how soon/often depends on the woods you
work with and how good your dust collection is. Best solution IMO is
MDF+laminate. In this case, make sure to provide a good flat
substructure, or perhaps laminate both sides. Otherwise it will want to
warp with changes in humidity.
I thought of that Jim, but I'll just add a further 2 cents worth. My side
feed table is MDF with a laminate on top and I find it too damn slippery. I
like a little friction as some plywoods are slippery enough on their own. I
find it gives me a bit more control when cutting up a 4x8 sheet. I wax the
hell out of the bottom of my crosscut and other sleds and I run them over
the saw table before it dries. I think, although I have no substantive
proof, a little wax gets transferred to the MDF but not enough to make it
I have to go with the majority. . .build your own. Far more rewarding and
Pictures of mine can be found at:
My woodworking projects at:
Remove the NAIL from e-mail to reply
Ed, I noticed in the picture of your TS you have a splitter built in to
the blade insert. Does that work well? It seems like a clever idea. I
have a stock Unisaw and would like to do the same. I assume you made
the insert yourself? Thanks, Mark
Ed. O. wrote:
Yes, make all my own inserts and that is a built in splitter. A piece of
angle aluminum will do the trick. Got the idea from Kelly Mehler when we
visited his shop in Berea, KY. He showed us how to add a piece of hardwood
same width as the slot. It works and I won't argue with a master.
My woodworking projects at:
Remove the NAIL from e-mail to reply
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.