A long While ago, my craftsman TS motor (about 2 years old at the
time), it's a 1 1/2 hp 13 amp induction motor started showing the
following symptoms: When I turned the machine on, the motor would not
turn over, but would hum and only threaten to start, i.e. the blade
would move only slightly, then, it would either finally start spinning
on its own, or with a careful push with a block of wood, it would
finally kick in. The motor was obviously drawing some extra amps in
the process, as my lights would dim until it started spinning.
Fortunately, the problem stopped for about a year or so, but it is
happening again lately. Is the motor on its last legs?
Sounds like you need either a new starting capacitor or the centrifugal
switch that controls it.
BTW, it is a common problem.
Once you get it corrected, consider rewiring and operate at 240VAC
rather than 120VAC.
No. That is typical when the start mechanism is
malfunctioning. Might just be some saw dust
between the contacts, burned contacts, or the
centrifugal mechanism is gummy. I would start
with blowing the beejeebers out of the motor with
an air hose (compressor). If that doesn't work,
you may need to take the end caps off the motor to
directly check the start mechanism.
I had a similar problem a couple of years ago.
The final fix was to blow out the caps and then hit the end of the
shaft with a ball peen hammer to knock the gunk off the contacts.
I know it sounds brutal, but, in my case, it did the trick.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker
If it is a sleeve bearing motor, NBD; however, if a ball bearing unit,
there is a distinct chance of brinelling the ball bearing races unless
there is an adequate thrust bearing.
If you brinell the bearings, you will know it in a hurry.
(Bearings start to chatter)
I think that you chimed in on my fix, Lew.
I was faced with a motor that would hum but not turn, even after
blowing everything out.
It was a case of a few judicious hits with the BP, or laying out
I was fortunate enough to knock off the crispiness without creating
further problems, and the bad boy is still running just real good.
I think it has something to do with getting to a point where you
understand what is going on inside the mess, and then whacking things
while you're seeing the mess in your head.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker
The key phrase there is "seeing the mess in your head." An ignorant whack
with a bfh costs $300 most of the time. Or more.
What's the quote? "Anyone who thinks education is expensive should try
leaving the hammer be...
I think you limited your options. You left out
the option that a really cheap person always
takes. That is, remove the end caps and check
everything out. Sometimes the contacts are burned
and just whacking the endplate won't fix burned
contacts. You have to file and burnish the
contacts or replace them.
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