Tablesaw comparison/buying guide

[Bill]

I "knew" someone was going to say something like that--and your point is well taken. It just looks so, so, so... convenient. I have read at least half of Bill Hylton's book, "Woodworking With The Router"--which I thought was enough for someone who didn't own a router, and he went through the design of a nice router table in excruciating detail. It was a good read. Since then I inherited two Craftsman routers from the mid 70's (1/2 and 1 HP I think, are they worth messing with?). I'm tempted to buy, someday, the likes of the DeWalt 1 3/4 HP Plunge and Fixed Router (Combo Kit).

I think every day about the other projects (benches) you've got me started on . I grew up with a "general purpose" bench, and I'll make one of those--with drawers and shelves, a machinists vise, and a place to sit (I sketched a detailed picture), and also a "minimal" woodworkers bench. Don't laugh about the "sitting down" part--there are alot of things in luthiery that I can't imagine trying to do standing up--I need or want the added support/stability of the elbows I guess, and I can't imagine trying to "draw" standing up.

Bill

[Lew Hodgett]

Take a look at the NYW unit.

Understand it is the most popular project Norm ever built.

The first time you use one and the bit slips in the collet destroying a valuable piece of wood, you will understand.

Damn things don't even make good boat anchors.

Not a bad choice, but take a look at Milwaukee.

Several on wreck can offer their experience with big red routers.

The most important tool in the boat yard is the thinking chair.

Lew

[Larry Blanchard]

That's a good point for those who use their tablesaw on a daily basis. But for the occasional hobbyist who's cutting stock one day, surfacing it another, routing another, finishing another, etc. it works fine. Especially if said hobbyist is cramped for space. DAMHIKT.

I never leave my router in the table. It stresses the table, the router plate, and the bolts.

Mine was built as a torsion box and replaces the left wing on the table saw. Didn't warp in about 15 years. Maybe because I didn't leave the router in it.

But that's all in the past. I have a new (old) tablesaw and my router table is now on folding brackets on the end of a flip top tool cart that holds my planer and thickness sander. Like I said - cramped for space :-).

[RonB]

...

Lew, I might have to disagree with you on this. I have been as big a Craftsman basher as any regarding the their drop in quality over the past 30 years. But during early 70's and before they did build some good stuff. I have one each early 70's Router, and 7" circular saw that my wife bought as gifts in the early 70's. Both were of solid metal construction and both are still doing the job. The only disadvantage of the router is the 1/4" collet that I just haven't got around to replacing, but it holds depth fine and is a good second machine when doing multiple contours.

The old saw is kinda beat up and has had to cord and brushes replaced but still works fine. When we were starting our house last year, our framer saw it and offered to trade one of his new Dewalts for it. "Good looking saw. They don't make them like that anymore!" he said.

I also owned one of their late 70's table saws and I'm glad its gone.

RonB

[Lew Hodgett]

------------------------------------------ Lew, I might have to disagree with you on this. I have been as big a Craftsman basher as any regarding the their drop in quality over the past 30 years. But during early 70's and before they did build some good stuff. I have one each early 70's Router, and 7" circular saw that my wife bought as gifts in the early 70's.

-------------------------------------------------------

My comment was specifically aimed at early 70's router.

Was warned but didn't listen.

Learned the hard way.

Might want to keep an eye on yours.

Lew

[dpb]

...

...

Like always, it probably all depends on _which_ particular router/collet--I also have one of similar vintage as did Dad and never been an issue w/ either of them...and after these number of years I'm not going to start now being any more wary than ever have been.... :)

Of course, like others, I've mostly gone to others recently owing to the

1/4" collet limitation but I'd not worry for what they're up to.

But, as noted, there were several models to choose from even then.

--

[krw]

A router lift helps a lot too.

Mine's bolted to the lift. It's the lifts job to make everything right. I can't believe there is any significant stress or deflection of the bolts, or the lift itself. A crappy MDF table, perhaps, but my router table is reinforced pretty well.

I'm not exactly cramped (two car garage) but the router table always seems to be in the way. The saw gets priority on space, over everything. ;-)

[Jim Weisgram]

Yeah, I forgot about Steel City. $1299 for a granite top 3 HP, 50" rails, riving knife, at Highland Woodworking. Shipping is extra. Sounds like a good deal to me.

I like having a cast iron top, myself, so I can stick magnets to it. I don't know if the flatter granite surface is that much better or not. At least it won't rust.

[krw]

It will chip though. I don't know about the Steel City, but at least one of the granite top saws has a 'T' miter slot; not a good idea, IMO.

[Larry Blanchard]

Unless things have changed, the Steel City came with either granite or cast iron.

[Bill]

I have read at least half

I located the DVD, "Router 101" (Item#0606), from NewYankee.com (it is about $40). Is that the video you mean?

Thanks, Bill

[Lew Hodgett]

No that is something else.

Try item: 0301.

Lew