Table Saw Safety

[Rick Cook]

Or in a few cases an old _handless_ at woodworking.

--RC

[J]

Probably should have grounded that rogue dust collector before it got you.

-j

[max]

I never use guards but always use the splitter. It is a homemade one. I used a brass plate with no kickback fingers. It keeps the back side of the wood from getting picked up by the teeth on the back side of the blade. max

[Andy Dingley]

How much greenish wood do you rip ?

I often work without a splitter, but not for ripping.

[Edwin Pawlowski]

The way you are setup is VERY dangerous. The way to correct it is to put the blade on backwards and work from the other side of the saw.

[mike]

Thanks smart ass.

[Scott Altman]

Free for the taking - 2 Crapsman TS guards - 1 Delta contractor TS guard

- 1 Black & decker TS guard........brand new never used. Still have all 10....true believer in push blocks though.

[Dan]

On Wed 23 Feb 2005 10:46:36a, [e-mail] wrote in news:cy2Td.20931$ [e-mail]:

The guard/splitter that came with my Griz was worthless. I went without a guard or splitter for a long time, then got a deal on some roughsawn white oak, and every other time I ripped a piece, it bent back and pinched the blade. Pinched it so hard one time it started squealing and I shut the thing down right quick.

After I worked the wood off the blade, the very next thing I did was make a splitter out of a piece of the rule off an old combination square. It's easy to take in and out, it's just about the same thickness as the kerf and it lines up perfect with the blade. Haven't had any problems since I did it, and I just FEEL better having it there. But if I hadn't sawn some twisty wood, I'd probably be still thinking about putting one on.

I'll be putting an overarm guard on the saw this summer but the main reason I'm doing it is for dust collection.

[Jeff Gorman]

If the wood pinches this splitter and the blade continues to lift the job, you stand a chance of having wood and the finger plate thrown at you.

Jeff G

[Jeff Gorman]

You might like to look at my web site - Circular Sawbench Safety - Riving Knives.

Jeff G

[mp]

Are you speaking from personal experience with this splitter?

[J]

How did you mount this? I've been thinking of doing something similar with my Griz 1023. If you have any comments you can pass along I'd appreciate it.

-j

[Tim Douglass]

That is my concern with any splitter mounted to the insert. Actually the stock splitter on the very cheap guard on my very cheap TS does a pretty good job. The rest of the guard sucks, though, so it is usually catching dust.

Tim Douglass

[Dan]

On Thu 24 Feb 2005 11:29:01a, "J" wrote in news:cvl2su$1d1$ [e-mail]:

Drilled a hole in the rule, the same size as the bolt where the original guard/splitter mounted, and then hacksawed a slot in it from the bottom to the hole, so I could just loosen the nut and pull it out easy for dados etc without having to completely remove the nut and then put it back, and then remove the nut to re-install it, and then drop the nut and fish it out of the sawdust, and aw-dammit-the-hell-with-it. The slot's long enough so it can bottom out and keep itself from moving if it gets hit. I needed a washer on both sides to keep it centered with the blade. Then I fitted it and cut it off where it seemed about right.

Got the idea from a web page someplace. Lemme see if it's still around here...

crash thud shove mutter

Yeah, here it is...

's using just a hole. I like the slot. About two hours work and zero money. Not bad for the peace of mind I get from it. :-)

I didn't put in that wooden blade guard, though.