AFTER reading your reply which gave your experience
level I say "if it works for you then go ahead on". For
a newbie reading this thread, please check out this
stuff BEFORE you do what an "old hand at woodworking"
does. There are a lot of things that can go wrong when
using a table saw. Understanding which ones can
hurt you and WHY may help when doing your own risk
Blood is not an attractive wood finish and is very
hard to remove. Time spent in the emergency room
and subsequent healing time is time not spent in
the shop woodworking (though it could be an excuse
to clean up and organize stuff)
Me, I've got a riving knife, push sticks (the GRRRIPPER
is great for controling short stuff), Draw-Tite magnetic
hold downs/hold against the fence - and no blade guard.
I also have the TS-Aligner Jr. Delux and use it to
make sure my saw blade parallels the miter slot and
the fence as well. A bad set up can be a major source
of grief. Better to know the set up's right than to
assume it is when in fact it isn't.
Horsepower is nice, but knowledge, when used properly,
is more powerful.
BTW - when a mortising chisel gets stuck in
a mortise - DO NOT have your forehead (or in
my case a 5 or 6 head) in it's exit path. You
WILL actually "see stars". Same goes for
removing a stuck tenon.
Ya'll have fun - and be safe - please.
On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 16:46:36 GMT, email@example.com wrote:
=====================================As far as I am concerned you ....are nuts...and lucky....
I always use a splitter...(although it is only a Nail tightly inserted
in the zero clearance inserts I use)... yes a nail...
I purchased and installed an over head guard on my saw
over ten years ago....and looking back it has been one of the best
buys I have ever made.. I use it all the time .. but like the seat
belts in my car.. have never needed it...
I never use guards but always use the splitter. It is a homemade one. I used
a brass plate with no kickback fingers. It keeps the back side of the wood
from getting picked up by the teeth on the back side of the blade.
On Wed 23 Feb 2005 10:46:36a, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote in
The guard/splitter that came with my Griz was worthless. I went without a
guard or splitter for a long time, then got a deal on some roughsawn
white oak, and every other time I ripped a piece, it bent back and
pinched the blade. Pinched it so hard one time it started squealing and I
shut the thing down right quick.
After I worked the wood off the blade, the very next thing I did was make
a splitter out of a piece of the rule off an old combination square. It's
easy to take in and out, it's just about the same thickness as the kerf
and it lines up perfect with the blade. Haven't had any problems since I
did it, and I just FEEL better having it there. But if I hadn't sawn some
twisty wood, I'd probably be still thinking about putting one on.
I'll be putting an overarm guard on the saw this summer but the main
reason I'm doing it is for dust collection.
Drilled a hole in the rule, the same size as the bolt where the original
guard/splitter mounted, and then hacksawed a slot in it from the bottom
to the hole, so I could just loosen the nut and pull it out easy for
dados etc without having to completely remove the nut and then put it
back, and then remove the nut to re-install it, and then drop the nut and
fish it out of the sawdust, and aw-dammit-the-hell-with-it. The slot's
long enough so it can bottom out and keep itself from moving if it gets
hit. I needed a washer on both sides to keep it centered with the blade.
Then I fitted it and cut it off where it seemed about right.
Got the idea from a web page someplace. Lemme see if it's still around
crash thud shove mutter
Yeah, here it is...
He's using just a hole. I like the slot. About two hours work and zero
money. Not bad for the peace of mind I get from it. :-)
I didn't put in that wooden blade guard, though.
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