I am an amatuer woofworker and I currently have a 10" Sears table saw
with a problem. The pully on the arbor frequently slides off the arbor
and it is a real nuisance to replace. Last night it was really bad. It
stayed on for one cut and then slid off. Happened three times. Note
that the original belt was replaced some time back with a link belt.
When I replace the pully on the arbor I take care that it is aligned
and the set screw is tightened to the key. Not sure what else to do.
On a related note I am thinking of upgrading, possibly to a cabinet
saw, or at least a better contractors saw. Remeber, I am an occasional,
amatuer and the saw would not get heavy use but I want something
accurate, reliable and easy to maintain. Suggestions are solicited and
Take the pulley off and look for marks made by the set screw on the shaft. If
you don't see any, that means the set screw isn't doing its job. There might
be some burrs on the set screw, or on the tapped hole it goes into, that
increase the friction and make you think that it's tight when it's not. So
examine the threads on the screw and on the hole carefully for any signs of
Re-tap the hole, and replace the screw, if necessary.
Try using Loctite on the screw threads before reassembling, then wait a while
(instructions will be on the package) before using the saw. Use the blue
Loctite -- you just want to keep the screw from coming out by itself, you
don't want to make it impossible to remove.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Is the set screw vibrating loose or is the pulley slipping off the
arbor? You might want to try some lock-tite on the set screw to see if
the pulley stays in place. Alternatively, you could drill a shallow
hole in the arbor for the set screw to screw into. That would stop it
Are you saying that the set screw tightens against the key on the arbor
If so, the key may be angled slightly so that the screw is actually
wedging the pulley off, check this.
Make sure the bottom of the set screw is flat -file or sand if needed
The key or point on shaft that screw tightens against should be flat -
file if needed
Ensure everything is clean and oil/grease free
Removable loctite make cure the problem but may make it difficult to
remove the screw later but that is its purpose.
Some of the regulars will probably say "Here he is again." but if you decide
to upgrade take a look at Grizzly. My experience with two of their saws:
1) I have owned a 1023s Cabinet saw for about five years. I think it is as
good as anything on the market under $1,700-1,800 - Including Unisaw. Lots
of power, good accuracy and the stock Shop Fox Classic Fence is great. With
shipping you can still get one for a little over $1,000.
2) We recently helped our son finish a house in SW Missouri. He purchased a
Grizzly G0444Z with the Aluminum version of the Classic fence. I gave it a
pretty good workout ripping hundreds of board feet of Oak and cutting many
sheets of MDF and Oak veneer plywood, not to mention a lot of laminate
flooring. The 2hp motor never strained and we got good cuts. I still
prefer my old Iron Classic fence but the aluminum version is a good choice
Griz has good customer service and anything I have ordered has been
delivered within a few days. The 1023 arrived, on dock, 36 hours after
I have had this same problem and here's what I've done. First - clean up
your arbor shaft. Typically the shaft gets scared up a bit from this
problem and a light lick with a file to smooth everything down nice again is
in order. Obviously, don't set about to file off lots of steel - just clean
up the shaft. As well - put a new key in. Likely the surface of the key is
gouged from the set screw.
Then - get a new set screw. Set screws do not have an indefinate life.
They rely on a pretty small contact point in order to really hold and after
they've been loosened and tightened a few times the end flattens out. After
that they don't bite as they should.
What model saw do you currently have? This problem is fairly common on the
Model 100 which is a great saw other than this problem. Get past it and you
really have a very good saw there, if that's the saw you have.
One way a pulley can get loose quickly is that the set screws are not
quite lined up with the flat on the shaft. Things will seem tight, but
in use the pulley will rotate a few degrees on the shaft and the set
screws will be loose. Sometimes this can be a real pain to get right. I
start with the screws a bit loose, and rotate the pulley on the shaft,
slowly tightening the setscrews so that the pulley only rotates maybe
ten degrees. Then I center the setscrews on the this free rotation.
gerald firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Read the other responses so far which all seem to concentrate on the
set screw -- I expect that's the wrong place to look unless the threads
are stripped in which case you need the same solution I'm going to
I expect the real problem is it was/is an inexpensive "pot-metal" cast
pulley that wasn't ever very true and owing to having run loose the
bore is "hogged out" so that it will not (and most importantly _can_
not be) tightened and retain its tightness under load.
You need to replace the pulley, preferably w/ a machined one, but at
least w/ a new replacement that will have a true and accurate diameter
bore. If you're careful to ensure it is tight periodically, even
another cast will probably last quite some time unless the shaft is now
also worn excessively, but in general, the shafts are sufficiently
harder than the pulley they rarely are too bad.
I don't have any particular recommendations for contractor/light-duty
saws since have no experience w/ them altho Grizzly routinely seem to
get high marks from the price-conscious crowd and support/service are
apparently good...as I noted recently (after suddenly having realized
the fact w/ some self-surprise :) ), I'm such an old fogey all these
reasonable quality imports are beyond since I last bought a stationary
machine so don't have a reference point.
This is really very true. I concentrated on the set screw because the OP
stated that he had gone to a link belt and I assumed he also went with a
good quality pulley at the same time. Maybe a rash assumption.
I guess you have already checked the condition of the pulley including
the arbor shaft bore, and the arbor itself, and made sure that the
pulley slides onto the arbor snugly? (Is that a word?) How about
alignment of arbor & motor shafts? Are they parallel? Did you remove
the set screw completely from the pulley? Sometimes there are 2, one
under the other. With the pulley removed from the arbor, are you able
to turn the setscrew far enough so that its end pokes into the bore?
Let us know what you find.
Often wrong, never in doubt.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - email@example.com
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