I've pulled a few with a standard bumper jack set into a loop of chain around
the post. Some come up easily this way, some don't.
"An unfulfilled vocation drains the color from a man's entire existence."
Honore de Balzac
I'll second that. We used this method to pull about a dozen posts some years
back -- the first one was so easy, I let my son (~4 yr old at the time) work
the jack on the rest. He thought that was way cool.
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
They actually sell a jack specifically for that and it looks just like an
old car jack but it is taller and beefier. They aren't very expensive
either if I recall correctly... harbor freight sells one called a "Farm
Jack" for $40. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?
itemnumbere30 I'm sure you can find one at any farm supply store too,
but I haven't actually LOOKED for one in about 20 years.
The trick is to get about 10' of logging chain, wrap it around the post
about 3 times and leave a loop to hook over the jack jaw. Just hold
tension on the chain as the jack goes up.
To be honest, we normally replace the jack with the bobcat or backhoe,
but the jack does work quite well and quickly. About the only thing you
may have problems with is the corner posts. These usually have some
concrete around the base and are almost impossible to pull up with a hand
jack. You just can't get the jack base far enough away from the post so
it isn't on top of the cement at the bottom.
firstname.lastname@example.org (Doug Miller) wrote in
(Charlie Self) wrote:
If you do use one of these jacks for its intended purpose, be extremely
careful not to allow any body part you value (including things like arms
and head) in the path of the jack handle. If you slip while jacking up a
heavy item, or the handle slips while lowering a heavy item, that handle
will induce severe injury. At least that's the case with the jack my dad
has and that I dealt with when I was growing up.
The farm jacks are still plenty available in 48" and 60" length.
They ARE mechanical and require periodic lubrication.
In the lowering setting, if less than 150# of weight is applied, the
lifting mechanism will freefall, so hang onto the handle.
They are intended for a straight lift and the beam WILL bend into a
curve if side force is applied under load.
I have two of them - one new and one from my grandfather, both still
On Wed, 05 May 2004 03:34:41 GMT, Mark & Juanita
Forgot about the free-fall bit, yeah, that was fun, too. I was referring
to the fact that if you slip while operating the handle, it *will* fly
upwards in an arc with tremendous force, making for some serious damage if
you have something valuable in the path of that arc.
If you don't have the bumper jack, lay the chain over a bare truck wheel
rim positioned close to the post. as you drive off with the chain
attached to your bumper, the wheel rolls and pulls upwards on the jack.
Soak the ground before trying to pull the posts. The jacks are the
right way to go. Some posts will break so you cannot escape the need to
dig. I have to replace a couple every year. Those that are planted in
concrete are much harder to pull.
I used a small hydraulic jack pushing against a board
screwed to the edge of the post. worked like a dream. the
jack is so small it's easily held in one hand. just be sure
to place a board or block under the jack to prevent it from
digging into the ground and to provide a level surface.
Cut 'em off at ground level with a chainsaw, put the metal post next to
it. It'll rot eventually, and it's lot less work than digging or pulling
'em. Me, I'd probably wrap a chain around them & pull 'em up with the
backhoe/loader, but that's not always an option.
Are they set in concrete?
If not, my first inclination would be to smack them near
the base with a sledge hammer and wiggle them back and forth
and from side to side to loosen them. Then I'd try levering
them up with a diggin iron or crowbar.
If that didn't work, I'd try a bigger hammer.
If they are very hard to get out, I'd consider cuting
them off flush with the ground and putting the posts
in new holes next to them.
Maybe I'd consider cutting them off flush with the ground
and then drilling a hole in each to accept the new metal
posts.... Depends on how long I expected the wooden
posts to last.
The easiest fastest way I know of to pull posts without a machine is I use a
4x4 @ 10' long as a lever, what ever you can find as a fulcrum and a short
piece of chain.
I use a shorter piece of 4x4 as the fulcrum with a couple of blocks to
saddle the fulcrum and keep it attached with a bunji cord.
If the posts aren't set in concrete you can pop them out in about 2 mins a
We had to pull a couple last summer; first one I lifted right out, but then
we worked on the second for an hour before realizing it was set in
concrete. At that point we pulled out the sawzall, cut it off about 6"
below the surface, and filled the hole in. Good as gone. We weren't
replacing these, but if we were I'd have just dug a new hole a few inches
away from the old concrete.
Many, many years ago I worked for a fence erector. Quite often we had to
take down old fences. This is the way he pulled posts.
1) He had a cable (or chain) with a hook on both ends - Say about 8 feet
2) One end he hooked to itself around the base of the post.
3) The other to the axel or bumper of a vehicle.
4) Important part! He had an old post that was leaning over facing the post
and had the cable running over it holding it up. This should be near the
post to be pulled
5) As the vehicle backed up the old post started to stand up from the cable
pull which then exerted a near vertical force on the post to be pulled.
Worked all the time.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.