Sofa tables. Again.

On 10/19/2016 2:02 PM, Leon wrote: ...

And where's the fun in that!!!!??? :)

Reply to
dpb
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Are there any good custom cabinet shops locally? I'd think they could either make them for you from some of their ordinary stock or have a vendor who would do so. Of course, the custom work might be more than the budget would stand so the waste of the stock from the off-the-shelf tiles thru the sander would still be less overall investment.

I've not looked at any recently, but there certainly has been improvement in the laminate appearance over the years; have you done any actual visual inspection of current choices? There is, of course, despite the superficial appearance that others probably would never really notice the factor of knowing yourself what is the actual material and that's not an insignificant factor to consider I'll grant.

I just have some concern for a furniture piece vis a vis a kitchen cabinet top or even island. But, your call of course... :)

Reply to
dpb

Don't know, never had need for one, I've always made my own stuff.

If I used laminate, it would be a matte black. But you're right, there are lots of nice looking laminates now.

I've made all sorts of furniture over the years. About the only thing I haven't made is a chair; assorted stools, yes, chairs no, haven't had the need.

Reply to
dadiOH

On 10/20/2016 1:17 PM, dadiOH wrote: ...

That part I knew; I was just concerned re: the weight of this piece as proposed being "over the top" from a practicality standpoint going forward.

But, again, it's your call, I've said my piece...

Reply to
dpb

Actually, I am giving serious consideration to skinnying down soapstone as per your suggestion. Not all that many to do, I could even attach them to the ply subbase and send the works through the drum sander as one piece. Wasteful, true but a viable solution.

Appreciated and thanks.

Reply to
dadiOH

On 10/20/2016 3:11 PM, dadiOH wrote: ...

Likely so, I'd be curious whether a local shop could fabricate what you need reasonably, though...which was all I was suggesting a local do; the stone work (providing, of course, there's one there who does actual work other than scribe countertop to a line). There was one in Lynchburg, VA, years and years and years ago we used to use in the old Federalist area revival that we "imports" to the area started when we were just getting out of school and couldn't afford much but these old run-down mansions and near-mansions could be had for near nothing if you were willing and able to put in the work needed...

No problem, will be interested to see what finally come up with (and if you are still ahead after buying the forklift to move it from the shop :) )

Reply to
dpb

How thick is your frame stock? From the photo it looks thicker enough to consider the following:

Make your frame a bit wider and rabbet the inside of the frame stock before you miter it as a ledge for the tile, or tile plus substrate.

Easy to set a dado blade or router bit to the precise thickness of the counter top material (+ any substrate), and not that hard to get the dimensions right.

Can be done on scrap, with no loss of project stock; and mitering the pre-rabbeted stock is a piece of cake, and easier to fuss with the fit.

That how I have done a number of glass table tops:

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And a very similar method used here:

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And of course the popular trivet used the same method:

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Contrary to others, I have learned to appreciate not having the tile flush, or below the frame, but about 1/8th higher than the frame surface.

IME, that higher reveal looks more appealing (see the trivet above) , more forgiving of small discrepancies, and much much easier to clean.

Just another idea to consider. YMMV ...

Reply to
Swingman

Soapstone is lovely, because it washes clean (but doesn't have a distracting glaze). Albemarle greenstone is a local variety in Virginia... If 'twere my project, the tiles would go on a plywood back, and each whole panel would lower into a wooden socket. Just cut the right cardboard shims to make the top level and flush with the woody bits. No need for attachment, gravity always works.

Reply to
whit3rd

LOL

Reply to
Leon

I'll probably make it 3/4 or thereabouts. No thinner, maybe thicker.

Yep, that was the plan...rabbet, ply or other shim on top of the main ply so tile sits at same level as bottom of rabbet.

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Agreed, makes life easier and I like the look too. However, with tile, it rather depends upon the tile edge; if rectified (square) I wouldn't want it; if beveled, fine. With soapstone, one can easily bevel or round the edge, not so with laminate and I wouldn't want to do so with granite.

With laminate, one could get that effect - sort of - by edge banding the laminate with thin - 1/8, say - wood which is easy to get flush, rounding/beveling the banding then insert in frame. I guess I could do the same thing with granite with a rectified edge.

Actually, it wouldn't be all that hard to get granite flush enough. With the rabbet, it will be very close. I had plannrd to leave about 1/8 between it and the wood frame and fill that void with black silicone or other caulk so any minor height differences would be alleviated via the caulk.

I may decide on the granite even though my preference would be soapstone...no need to skinny down the soapstone to reduce weight and considerably cheaper. That last is important at the moment because we are in the middle of replacing 70 squares of tile roof, close to a years income :(

Reply to
dadiOH

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