I have been cutting some oak with a Delta unisaw and the blade set to 45
degrees. The edges don't seem real smooth at 45 degrees but are smooth as glass
at 90 degree. I'm using a WWII which is about a month old. The cuts are along
the grain and seem to be tearing along the wood fibers. The poplar wood I was
using before seemed very smooth at 45 degrees. Any suggestions.
Over the years there have been post made to the "wreck" about Delta saws
that would lose the blade alignment when the blade was tilted.
Below is a "Google" link to some of those past threads. It's a long URL
so if it doesn't work for you try an "Advanced Google Search" for
"+Delta +tilt +alignment" (without the quotes).
http://groups-beta.google.com/groups?as_q=%2Bdelta+%2Btilt+%2Balignment&num &scoring=r&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&as_ugroup=rec.woodworking&as_usubject=&as_uauthors=&lr=&as_drrb=q&as_qdr=&as_mind=1&as_minm=1&as_miny81&as_maxd&as_maxm=3&as_maxy 05&safe=off
If I'm following you here, your are ripping at a 45 degree angle?
I think a clue might be that the poplar is coming out okay. Just a
guess would be that your blade may be more dull than you think.
Depends on what's going on. Are you seeing blade artifact - arcs from the
teeth and maybe a bit of burn? Might be what Jack said.
If it's just random roughness, see Mike. Remember your board is now 1.4
times as thick, so adjust your feed and hold accordingly.
I'll try a Freud blade I have that is almost new and see. The links may help
also as I only have been checking the angle measurement.
Should I leave more then one saw tooth above the board on the cut?
I've seen a similar problem with contractor's saws, I guess it could
happen with a cabinet saw as well. If the plane of the saw table is
not parallel to the tilt axis of the blade, then tilting the blade
will effectively move the front of the blade closer or further from
the miter slot than the rear, whether closer or further depending on
which way it is "out" If this is the case than I believe it could be
corrected with shims between the cabinet and the front or rear of
the table. (On a contractors saw shims are used between the trunnions
and the table) Perhaps someone else has a good procedure for doing
this, at the moment all I can think of is a trial and error solution.
Is the blade tilting away from the fence? Is so, the wood will tend to rise
and fall producing a rough cut. Regardless of tilt you need to maintain
good downward pressure and good pressure against the fence you will produce
better rips. Tilting toward the fence will make this job a touch easier.
You are ripping not cross cutting..if I read you post correctly...
Now I would expect your 1 month old WW!! blade is not yet very dull so
I am going to rule that out....
You seem to indicate that the fibers are sheared and not smoothly cut
off along the entire surface of the cut..not just sheared or
splintered along the edge of the cut... so we can rule out left vs
right hand tilt saws...(lol..had to bring that up even thought I
mainly use a right tilt and increase the lightly hood of splintering
on the "good side of a ripped miter)...
My guess is that when you tilt the blade you actually loose alignment
of the blade to the miter slot...the rear of your blade shifts a
little closer or further away from the slot ..at a 90 degree angle
everything is in alignment. front to back...
Just my Guesses...
And my guess, since it's oak, is that it's changing the grain direction,
exposing the more open pore structure, and generally being oak. Probably
red oak, too. Consider the ray fleck structure that's variably exposed,
when changing from flatsawn to riftsawn to quartersawn, and my money's on
that being a contributing factor.
Oh, and try using featherboards, if you haven't already.
So that's my guess from miles away.
Well I cleaned the WWII and have been using more downward pressure as suggested
and it did start producing a cleaner cut. My saw is a left tilt which it seems
allows it to move up and down as suggested. Either way I want to thank everyone
for their help.
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