I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.
Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.
Got a favorite method?
Also, 1/4" dowels should do the trick in each corner right? This case
is going to be loaded down pretty good I hear.
Thanks as always,
On Sat, 09 Jan 2010 09:54:11 -0800, smandel wrote:
Yes, but be careful. I once used a piece and found out a row here and
there were a little off. Must have slipped during the drilling process.
Not a problem if you know about it but I only found out when done :-(.
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
This is relatively inexpensive and much simpler than using a router like
Norm uses. I have been using this jig for about 12 years. comes with a
special Vix type bit that IIRC uses a brad point style bit. Can be used
before or after assembly in many cases.
What are your thoughts on the 1/4" dowel. Should do it right?
Yes you can use a dowel but I use the 1/4" hooks.
They will not fall out when the shelf is in place and most of the pin does
Not only that.... if that one isn't large enough, if you have a drill press
with a table, you can make your own. Make a jig to make a jig: set the fence
to, say, 2" from the bit, set a piece of scrap plywood against the fence, and
drill a hole in it the size of the collar on your Vix bit. (For a 1/4" bit,
that's 3/8".) Move the plywood by the distance you want between the shelf pin
holes, and clamp it to the table. This is your jig for making a jig.
Now lay the actual jig over the plywood, and position it where you want the
first shelf-pin hole to be. Drill. Put a 3/8" dowel in the first hole you
drilled in the plywood. Slide the jig over, and slip the hole you just drilled
in it over the dowel in the plywood. Drill another hole. Repeat.
That's the one we use. We didn't think we would use it much but
bought it because it wasn't a whole lot more than just buying the self
centering bit. We use it all the time. We also made a longer one out
of 1/4" plexi for use on tall bookcases that takes the same Rockler
bits. It saves a little time over re-setting the Jig-It 2 or 3 times
on a side.
The nice advantage to getting away from the router and using a drill is that
you can go to any location and add holes after assembly if necessary. I
have had customers ask me to add shelves to areas already built in in their
homes. The Rockler set up with a drill make it a simple task.
On Sat, 9 Jan 2010 17:23:06 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
They're right proud of those things, aren't they?
$22 a pop, and $7 for a replacement short bit.
Vix bits ARE cool, though.
Growing old is mandatory; growing up is optional.
and Possum(tm) Handy Pouches NOW AVAILABLE!
Yeah they are a bit pricey but I have probably drilled 1-2 thousand holes
with mine and have not yet replaced or sharpened the bit.
The bit being like Vix bit differs slightly in the union of the end of the
bit and the jig. The end is not tapered like a regular Vix bit, it is flat
bottomed with a collar. The bit fits precicely in the hole and is flat
bottomed to help insure that the bit is 90 degrees to the jig.
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