Shelf Pin Holes

I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. I might get to the shelf pin holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down a post. I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.

Got a favorite method?

Also, 1/4" dowels should do the trick in each corner right? This case is going to be loaded down pretty good I hear.

Thanks as always, Brian

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Reply to
GarageWoodworks
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get a piece of predrilled masonite (used for hanging tools) to use as a template shelly

Reply to
smandel

This is relatively inexpensive and much simpler than using a router like Norm uses. I have been using this jig for about 12 years. comes with a special Vix type bit that IIRC uses a brad point style bit. Can be used before or after assembly in many cases.

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Reply to
Leon

Reply to
Dave Balderstone

the beauty to the Rockler jig is that the bit is self centering and does not/has not damaged the holes in 12 years od use.

Reply to
Leon

Done it every way possible, both drill and router.

I'm with Leon ... the Rockler jig, or a similar brand, with the vix bit, is the cat's meow. I've made similar one's out of plexiglass and 1/4 mdf on the drill press in a pinch.

Reply to
Swingman

I use to have a Rockler here down the street, but they closed up shop. :^( I need to place an order for next time.

Reply to
GarageWoodworks

Reply to
GarageWoodworks

Nice. Neat idea. Hmmmm.

Reply to
GarageWoodworks

I prefer steel KV clips.

As far as the holes go, I use a plunge router with a 1/4" bit and a 3/8 bushing. Years ago I carefully laid out a hole spacing pattern and drilled

3/8" holes with a drill press in a piece of 1/2" mel board. That board has overlaps on the edge to register it the desired distance on whatever I am making holes in. I've used it for 1000s of holes.

I prefer a router to a drill because the holes wind up perpendicular without any effort. It is also fast...turn on router, release plunge clamp, stick in hole, push down, lift up, move to next hole.

I used 1/2" mel board to keep router bit length to a mimimum. Over the years, the holes have become a bit edge rounded from the bushing insertions but that doesn't matter as the interior of the hole is fine.

Reply to
dadiOH

Done it every way possible, both drill and router.

I'm with Leon ... the Rockler jig, or a similar brand, with the vix bit, is the cat's meow. I've made similar one's out of plexiglass and 1/4 mdf on the drill press in a pinch.

Reply to
Swingman

Yes you can use a dowel but I use the 1/4" hooks.

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will not fall out when the shelf is in place and most of the pin does not show.

Reply to
Leon

Not only that.... if that one isn't large enough, if you have a drill press with a table, you can make your own. Make a jig to make a jig: set the fence to, say, 2" from the bit, set a piece of scrap plywood against the fence, and drill a hole in it the size of the collar on your Vix bit. (For a 1/4" bit, that's 3/8".) Move the plywood by the distance you want between the shelf pin holes, and clamp it to the table. This is your jig for making a jig.

Now lay the actual jig over the plywood, and position it where you want the first shelf-pin hole to be. Drill. Put a 3/8" dowel in the first hole you drilled in the plywood. Slide the jig over, and slip the hole you just drilled in it over the dowel in the plywood. Drill another hole. Repeat.

Reply to
Doug Miller

That's the one we use. We didn't think we would use it much but bought it because it wasn't a whole lot more than just buying the self centering bit. We use it all the time. We also made a longer one out of 1/4" plexi for use on tall bookcases that takes the same Rockler bits. It saves a little time over re-setting the Jig-It 2 or 3 times on a side.

Mike O.

Reply to
Mike O.

Our fine folks at FastCap sell adhesive tape with 32 mm marks printed on it. Handy if you don't have a lot of them to do.

Reply to
Robatoy

Yes, but be careful. I once used a piece and found out a row here and there were a little off. Must have slipped during the drilling process. Not a problem if you know about it but I only found out when done :-(.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

Only in a dire emergency ... not only will the holes wear out quickly from drilling and become inaccurate, but there are not necessary consistent in level.

Reply to
Swingman

--------------------------------------------------

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Or last weapon of choice since NYW is done. I recall him using a large aluminum jig and plunging the router in each hole... I'd rather not be lifting the router that much.

Reply to
Leon

I made his earlier version using a piece of 9 ply birch.

HEAVY.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

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