A bunch of trees fell down on my neighbor's property during the last
pineapple express, and his little Ryobi 8" electric chainsaw wasn't
up to the task because we stripped the hold-down bolt threads:
So I lent him my Husqvarna 18" chainsaw for chopping up the fallen trees:
End result is that the kickback spring mechanism must have jammed hard,
I think it happened exactly as this picture was taken, actually:
The result is that I had a devil of a time getting the hold-down cover
off today because the chain break coil was tightly wrapped around the
chainsaw spinning drum:
I finally was able to loosen the spring circular kickback clamp,
but the spring popped out of his slot in the process:
The problem now, is getting the kickback clamp spring back on:
I tried all sorts of leverage tools, but that spring is STRONG!
Anyone know the trick to get that super strong spring back on?
Sorry, I did not explain it clear enough for you to understand. The bolt is
outside of the spring. A tab on the edge of the washer goes to the inside of
There might be better solutions that one could explore.
Tom Miller wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 14:51:26 -0500:
I have compressed automotive springs, so, I know what you're talking about.
It's never gonna work in this particular case.
There's just no room and the spring is too strong for any metal that would
actually fit in between the coils and you can't touch the ends since they
fit into a recessed slot.
Here it is before it sprung:
Here is the after sprung:
Plus, there is a fragile plastic insert that goes more than 1/3 of the
way through the one end.
Classic spring compressor?
Nope. Not gonna work at all.
But, it's a good idea for other applications.
Incredible, I had this same problem yesterday. After many attempts I was
successful, but I can't say it's an optimal method.
Remove the C-ring holding the 3 armed "sprocket" and lift it off it's rod. The
sprocket arm is in the locked position. Straigthen this assembly.
Put the spring and its assembly back in the groove with the sprocket assembly
out straight , not bent the way you found it. Take a pair of locking pliers and
secure the bottom end of the spring to the housing, Not so tight that you damage
Take a thin screw driver about 3/8' wide and insert between the front of the
spring assembly and the housing wall.. Use leverage to compress the spring.
Try again. Work from the inside edge of the housing. I was able to squeeze the
spring and the "sprocket" arm straightened out. I carefully slipped it over
the rod, and then took another locking pliers and lightly secured the front end
of the spring.
Then I replaced the C- ring, attached the plastic frame parts, reattached to the
chain saw body. Tested it and it worked fine.
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 08:08:56 -0500:
Chris understood. There's no room, really, for a "spring compressor".
I've done McPherson struts, and, this is NOTHING like that since
any flimsy metal that fits between the spring coils is NEVER gonna
compress that spring.
If you held that spring in between your fingers, for example, you'd
NEVER get it to compress visibly. It's also VERY BOUNCY so it sproings
all over the place, as you wrestle with leverage tools (e.g.,
There's no room to get a C-clamp on the ends either, as both ends fit
into a recessed slot.
It's not a 0.5-second job, that's for sure.
Pico Rico wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 05:29:02 -0800:
If it was as easy as you're intimating, then this video that Jeff
kindly found, would never have been needed.
That guy did it, and said, verbatim "I'm sure there is some official
way to do this, but, I don't know what it is ..."
There are two steps that are not intuitive how to do:
1. Compress the spring to get it in place without poking out an eye,
2. Setting the chain brake into the unlock position since it has to
be in the locked position in order to get the spring in place.
Luckily, I know how, and it should work for me, and I'll report back
when I try it (after responding to these posts).
Pico Rico wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 05:29:02 -0800:
Can you do me a favor and send Pico Rico pictures of the garage door
springs and McPherson struts we've removed, replaced and compressed.
He seems to think that those of us endowed with small springs don't
also have far larger ones lurking around in our garage that need to
be wound ...
On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 at 9:53:17 PM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
I've never had to do one of these. But the procedure for getting
any spring like that back on is first to get as much room as possible.
From the picture, the part that it pushes against is in it's most
forward position, not retracted. IDK what it takes to get that to
retract, but if it's retracted, then less compression of the spring
will be necessary.
trader_4 wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 05:57:18 -0800:
Thanks. I watched the video Jeff suggested, and I think that method
will work as the guy has overcome exactly the two problems that I need
to overcome, which are:
1. Compress the spring enough to get it to STAY in the slot
(It bounces all over the place because the amount of force is
akin to what it takes to move a refrigerator with one hand
pressed up against the bottom with the tip of a screwdriver.)
2. Reset the chain brake without the leverage afforded by the chainsaw
handle (you have no leverage and you need to spin a very hard to
spin little spoked wheel). The force necessary to spin the spoked
while is sort of like spinning a lag bolt with just the tip of
a screwdriver wedged into one of the hex crests.)
But, I'm pretty sure I can do it now, as I know *exactly* how not
do to it by now!
On Thu, 19 Feb 2015 02:52:28 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
Model number please?
Here's a video on how to do it:
He just uses a pair of big needle nose pliers and brute force.
Jeff Liebermann firstname.lastname@example.org
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Jeff Liebermann wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 08:47:48 -0800:
It's the Husqvarna 445, from the local Lowes and it's about a year
old. My neighbor, who is building that suspension bridge here in the
redwoods in your neck of the woods (a bit further north than you),
borrowed it, and chopped up a nice hard madrone (lovely wood) that
had fallen in the last pineapple express.
You probably lost a few antennas in recent weeks (we did).
Anyway, the video was very helpful. I'm amazed you actually found
that video, because it's EXACTLY what I need to do! You're utterly
amazing, and I don't say that all too lightly.
The video makes it look all so easy, but doesn't mention how fantastically
strong that spring is, and, that it flies out all over the place
(ask me how I know)...
I like the trick of bolting down a hold-down clamp, as that spring
has already bounced all over my garage this morning ...
As the fellow said there is probably an offical tool to do it. Sometimes it
would be nice to see the offical tool and the way the factory puts things
together. They probably use an expensive tool that is too much for a one
time job, so it is nice to know how to do it at home with minimal tools.
Ralph Mowery wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 16:06:48 -0500:
Yes. I agree. If Husqvarna supplies a video on how "they" get that spring
back in place, that would be informative.
Just as you suggested though, just *watching* the video that Jeff supplied
taught me to pay extra special attention to three things which were inhibiting
Armed with that example, I found a *different* way to accomplish getting
the spring in place.
Instead of leveraging with pliers on the outside end of the spring, I
leveraged with a two-foot long screwdriver on the *inside* edge of the
And, I used a few wraps of strong packing tape to hold the spring in
place on the outside half:
Now all I have to do is spin the wheel of fortune to the left of
that photo, which I'll probably do with a screwdriver or pliers
as the guy did in Jeff's wonderful video.
Sort of reminds me the first time I replaced the drum breaks on my car years
ago. I tried using a screwdriver and finally got the spring on after
several tries on each wheel. Just as the spring would get near where it was
suspose to be, it would slip off. Then next time I was at the auto store I
found a special tool that had a hook on it that would go over the stud.
Worked just fine the first time.
I wonder if the Husqvarna people use somethink like that , or if the spring
comes compressed with a string or wire holding it in the compressed state
and they cut the string when it is in place.
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