Danny D. wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 02:52:28 +0000:
Here's the 5-minute sequence, in a nutshell, once you know how to do it!
- Remove the star-wheel circlip & position the spring in the slot.
- Screw the temporary cover plate on (which holds the spring down).
- Leverage the spring into position #1 (bent) with an 18-inch screwdriver.
- Replace the circlip.
- Remove the temporary cover plate (hold the spring down with your hands).
- Replace the permanent plastic cover plates (watch the rubber post!).
- Spin the star wheel into position #2 (straight) using a special socket.
Here's a more detailed pictorial DIY.
It's easy, once you know these tricks and make the special tools!
1. Fabricate a female socket for the chainlock star wheel:
Note: Forget about standard drum brake tools; they don't fit:
2. Fabricate a hold-down plate for 1/2 the spring tensioning:
3. Lock the magnesium clutch plate upright in a vise and remove
the circlip and pry up with an 18-inch screwdriver:
4. Replace the circlip once you have the spring in the 1st position:
5. REMOVE THE TEMPORARY COVER PLATE!
You can finish the job without removing the plate, but you'll
lose the spring a half dozen times before you realize the folly
of trying to get the spring into the second position with the
cover plate on! If you're VERY LUCKY, you can get the cover
plate off with the spring in the straight (second) position,
but you MUST be very lucky for it to stay in place:
6. Instead, remove the cover plate while the spring is in the
first position and replace the black original plastic cover:
NOTE: You can do this ONLY if you've made the special socket
tool described in step #1.
7. With an 18-inch pipe wrench, spin the chainlock into the
second (straight) position using the special socket tool
you made in step #1:
8. Do not make the mistake I made, which is to forget to put the
rubber protection strip on the post UNDER the black plastic!
I had it all done, and had to do it over again because of
that simple faux pas (you can see the rubber endcap in the
middle of this picture above; it's supposed to be inserted
under and through the black plastic, so it has to go on 1st!).
In summary, the tricks that make this task easy are:
A. The socket tool allows you to spin the spring into the second
(straight) position while the black plastic is on. This is
immensely helpful because there is no danger of the spring
springing out when you try to move from the temporary cover
plate to the black plastic (ask me how I know this).
B. The cover plate is still useful, in the first stage of
spring compression, as it keeps both the spring in place,
and it keeps the circular friction clutch in position. With
tape and wire, the friction clutch moves out of position
and is impossible to get back in place due to the enormous
tension so you have to start all over again (ask me how I
C. The cover plate is a hindrence for the second step, that of
straightening the mechanism, becuase that adds tremendous
additional tension, which springs the spring when you remove
the cover plate. So, best to NEVER remove it, by replacing
it with the permanent black plastic (ask me how I know).
D. The unique trick of removing the circlip makes pushing the
spring into the first position IMMENSELY EASY! There is no
easier way to get the spring into that first position (ask
me how I know). In all the videos, they left the circlip
in place, and tried to compress the spring from the other
end, but, it turns out to be easiest to PUSH on the spring
from the attached end. Putting the circlip back on is easy,
so the only danger is to be careful not to bend the brass
pin and not to lose the circlip retaining ring.
Danny D. wrote, on Sat, 21 Feb 2015 05:46:47 +0000:
BTW, in case someone asks, it's IMPOSSIBLE to turn the star wheel
with just the special female socket tool.
It still takes a lot of force, which is *easy* to apply using an
18-inch pipe wrench on the socket tool.
But, without the pipe wrench leverage, you're never gonna spin that
Here's a list of tools required:
- Special temporary cover plate (to hold down the spring)
- Special female star socket tool (to spin the star wheel)
- 1/8th inch screwdriver (to remove & replace the circlip)
- #2 Philips screwdriver (to remove & replace the screws)
- 18-inch screwdriver (to leverage the spring to position #1)
- 18-inch pipe wrench (to leverage the spring to position #2)
- Vise (to hold everything in place - this is mandatory!)
On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 at 9:53:17 PM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
Not sure if this will help in your case, but I recently had problems gettin
g a Poulon chain saw back together. It turned out that the kick-back bar go
t into the stop position; when I put it back in the run position, everythin
g went back together without any problems. I had to turn that three-vaned t
hing to the run position using needle-nosed pliers and it took a lot of for
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.