Anyone have a trick for getting Husqvarna chainsaw brake kickback spring back on?

Danny D. wrote, on Sat, 21 Feb 2015 00:39:04 +0000:

This is apparently the "official" method: http://blog.vminnovations.com/how-to-reset-husqvarna-chain-brake-fix-stuck-or-locked-brake-problem/
It seems so easy in that video.
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Danny D. wrote, on Thu, 19 Feb 2015 02:52:28 +0000:

Here's the 5-minute sequence, in a nutshell, once you know how to do it! - Remove the star-wheel circlip & position the spring in the slot. - Screw the temporary cover plate on (which holds the spring down). - Leverage the spring into position #1 (bent) with an 18-inch screwdriver. - Replace the circlip. - Remove the temporary cover plate (hold the spring down with your hands). - Replace the permanent plastic cover plates (watch the rubber post!). - Spin the star wheel into position #2 (straight) using a special socket. - Voila!
Here's a more detailed pictorial DIY. It's easy, once you know these tricks and make the special tools!
1. Fabricate a female socket for the chainlock star wheel:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7395/16411792279_46ddab4f57_c.jpg
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7397/16410603900_02b4cddeca_c.jpg
Note: Forget about standard drum brake tools; they don't fit:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7339/16410598970_33a26618e9_c.jpg
2. Fabricate a hold-down plate for 1/2 the spring tensioning:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7453/16410601090_8172e71525_c.jpg
3. Lock the magnesium clutch plate upright in a vise and remove the circlip and pry up with an 18-inch screwdriver:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8571/16411787569_765c0f3a41_z.jpg
4. Replace the circlip once you have the spring in the 1st position:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7290/15977854503_6993ccff87_z.jpg
5. REMOVE THE TEMPORARY COVER PLATE! You can finish the job without removing the plate, but you'll lose the spring a half dozen times before you realize the folly of trying to get the spring into the second position with the cover plate on! If you're VERY LUCKY, you can get the cover plate off with the spring in the straight (second) position, but you MUST be very lucky for it to stay in place:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8579/16596438151_34b09b602e_z.jpg
6. Instead, remove the cover plate while the spring is in the first position and replace the black original plastic cover:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7351/16410598560_de1ffccf41_c.jpg
NOTE: You can do this ONLY if you've made the special socket tool described in step #1.
7. With an 18-inch pipe wrench, spin the chainlock into the second (straight) position using the special socket tool you made in step #1:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7282/15975460464_8dbabda7ea_z.jpg
8. Do not make the mistake I made, which is to forget to put the rubber protection strip on the post UNDER the black plastic!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8580/15977853143_10b400741f_z.jpg
I had it all done, and had to do it over again because of that simple faux pas (you can see the rubber endcap in the middle of this picture above; it's supposed to be inserted under and through the black plastic, so it has to go on 1st!).
In summary, the tricks that make this task easy are:
A. The socket tool allows you to spin the spring into the second (straight) position while the black plastic is on. This is immensely helpful because there is no danger of the spring springing out when you try to move from the temporary cover plate to the black plastic (ask me how I know this).
B. The cover plate is still useful, in the first stage of spring compression, as it keeps both the spring in place, and it keeps the circular friction clutch in position. With tape and wire, the friction clutch moves out of position and is impossible to get back in place due to the enormous tension so you have to start all over again (ask me how I know).
C. The cover plate is a hindrence for the second step, that of straightening the mechanism, becuase that adds tremendous additional tension, which springs the spring when you remove the cover plate. So, best to NEVER remove it, by replacing it with the permanent black plastic (ask me how I know).
D. The unique trick of removing the circlip makes pushing the spring into the first position IMMENSELY EASY! There is no easier way to get the spring into that first position (ask me how I know). In all the videos, they left the circlip in place, and tried to compress the spring from the other end, but, it turns out to be easiest to PUSH on the spring from the attached end. Putting the circlip back on is easy, so the only danger is to be careful not to bend the brass pin and not to lose the circlip retaining ring.
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Danny D. wrote, on Sat, 21 Feb 2015 05:46:47 +0000:

BTW, in case someone asks, it's IMPOSSIBLE to turn the star wheel with just the special female socket tool.
It still takes a lot of force, which is *easy* to apply using an 18-inch pipe wrench on the socket tool.
But, without the pipe wrench leverage, you're never gonna spin that star wheel.
Here's a list of tools required: - Special temporary cover plate (to hold down the spring) - Special female star socket tool (to spin the star wheel) - 1/8th inch screwdriver (to remove & replace the circlip) - #2 Philips screwdriver (to remove & replace the screws) - 18-inch screwdriver (to leverage the spring to position #1) - 18-inch pipe wrench (to leverage the spring to position #2) - Vise (to hold everything in place - this is mandatory!)
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On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 at 9:53:17 PM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:


Not sure if this will help in your case, but I recently had problems gettin g a Poulon chain saw back together. It turned out that the kick-back bar go t into the stop position; when I put it back in the run position, everythin g went back together without any problems. I had to turn that three-vaned t hing to the run position using needle-nosed pliers and it took a lot of for ce.
Paul
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