Shed doors

I have a 10 year old shed for my lawn tools, that is 2X constructions, with standard particle board siding. While the outside was painted immediately, the inside of the siding was left unpainted. The doors are basically a sheet of siding with 2x4 around the edge of each door and in an X pattern in the bottom half of the doors . The doors overlap the floor joist and come to the bottom of the floor joist. The minimum clearance under the shed is about 8" and is open on all four sides.

That area between the door and the joist has started to come a part Since at this time the decomposition is minor, can i stave off the replacement of the door by gluing the loose particles and painting that are of the door?

Is there a better solution?

Reply to
knuttle
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Maybe I'm dense .. I read your post 3 times and I can't understand your description of the problem .. Can you post a photo on imgur or something ? John T.

Reply to
hubops

Don't use particle board where it will be exposed to moisture?

I'm not sure the glue will be particularly effective, but a coat of paint may delay further decomposition of the door.

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

I would suspect that you'd want the remaining board to be bone dry when you paint it. You don't want to trap the water inside the board.

And if you are not picky about color, Sherwin-Williams (etc) often have "mistints" for sale cheap.

Reply to
pyotr filipivich

re: "standard particle board siding"

What do you mean by "standard particle board siding". There are numerous materials that people refer to as "particle board", often incorrectly.

When I hear particle board, I think of the material used to make flat-pack furniture, like inexpensive nightstands and bookcases. Melamine comes to mind also. That would not be considered "standard particle board siding" and shouldn't be used outside.

re: "That area between the door and the joist has started to come a part"

Do you perhaps mean that the OSB (?) on the interior bottom of the door is beginning to look like this?

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If so, I've never heard of regluing OSB. There are epoxies that are used to stop rot and "rebuild" rotten wood, like window sills and thresholds. Maybe that would work.

Perhaps you could spread epoxy over (and into) the area and then clamp it to get it back to "flat". Using wax paper between the epoxy and the boards used to make the clamping form will prevent the form from sticking to the OSB (or whatever the actual material is).

Another option might be to cut off the damaged area and attach a new "bottom" perhaps using pocket screws or a backer board on the inside. Yes, there would be a seam that would need to be sealed, but without more info (and perhaps a picture) it's tough to offer specific solutions.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Treat with bleach/antifungal. Stabilize with a wood hardener and reinforce with filler. I don't know if particle board/OSB is susceptible to dry rot, but it does travel thru painted wood once it has begun.

Protect and paint the bottom edge of the particle board face well as this is where the water runs down to, and pauses before dripping. When replacing in the future, don't use particle board or OSB, even if it is intended for outdoor sheathing. (it is meant to be enclosed by other membranes.) While it is not in direct contact with the ground, it is ground-adjacent. I'd consider prefinished cement/concrete board, buit at least use PT.

my 2¢ Scott

Reply to
ScottWW

It is built to code, ie not on concrete with no utility connections it did not need a permit.

Reply to
knuttle

Yes I mean OSB, I can never remember what that is called. My vocabulary has not gotten past particle board and plywood.

It is not decomposed as shown in the picture, only a large piece of wood in the OSB is coming loose. The idea was to glue the piece back in, and then paint, varnish, or something to prevent further degradation.

Beyond those couple of inches the OSB is in good conditions, the damage is in the area between the door and the floor joist in the area where the door overlaps when it is closed.

All of the suggestion are good and now I have to decide how to proceed.

Reply to
knuttle

It works for termites and Swedes, maybe it'll work for you.

Perhaps an epoxe penetrating sealer then epoxe "Bondo".

Reply to
krw

If painting does not work, possibly cut off the bottom of the doors siding and replace with solid material?

Reply to
Markem618

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