Ants and the shed door

MinWax epoxy wood and there's a liquid for repairng dry rot before applying the epoxy fill.

MinWax epoxy wood and there's a liquid for repairing dry rot before applying the epoxy fill.

Automobile "bondo"

..or if you want something stronger, albeit a bit less forgiving when it comes to sanding and shaping, DuraGlass might be an option.

In the generalist of senses, it's a bondo-like filler embedded with fiberglass strands.

Some say to use DuraGlass for your major filling and shaping and then use bondo as the final coat since it's so much easier to finish.

The website site doesn't mention using it on wood, but I can state with 100% certainty that it works well for repairing rotted window sills.

Thank you, and everyone who replied! This will do double-duty since I have some rotted window sills in my downstairs bathroom that need tending to as well.

I really appreciate the replies!

You may want to practice on some scrap wood before you attack your projects to get a feel for cure time, sanding ability, etc.

Since this product contains fiberglass, consider wearing a decent dust mask while working with it, especially while sanding it.

Thanks I will. Now I have to find out where to buy that.

It can be purchased at automobile parts stores and marine supply stores like West Marine. If your 'chain' auto store doesn't carry it, one the independent stores will. We have a couple of retail auto paint shops in my area that carry it too.

Then there's Amazon and lots of other online sources.

The rot needs to be stopped and killed first, rot is alive and eating at your wood because the conditions of excessive moisture are right for it to live. Laundry bleach kills rot, I'd soak the bottom of the door in bleach then grind and cut out the damaged area, then use auto bindo . If you don't correct the reason for excessive moisture the rot will come back. There are treatments for wood to help prevent rot you could use, google for them, and there are wood preservatives . I would take off the door and soak the bottom in bleach. The ants may have made a nest in the rotted door. Look up your shed warranty, it should have something on rot. If its relatively new it probably stays wet and in the shade and isn't drying out thoroughly. Rot is going to be hard to control but laundry bleach sprayed on the wood can help to kill the organisms before they continue to eat away at the wood .

I'd use the Marine stores if you need it right away. You'll pay a premium, but I wouldn't use the automotive bondo near wood. I think it holds too much moisture and will accelerate the rotting of the nearby wood. Bondo makes a marine grade filler that doesn't hold [as much? ] moisture.

That's where I'd go--- [or back here where I got the stuff for my garage door *-10? years ago. Still perfect-

I've used RotDoctor stuff pretty successfully in the past.

Does it really hold water ? But it's used on metal cars.

-snip-

And surrounded by impervious stuff like metal or paint. Make a gob- weigh it- toss it into a bucket of water overnight and weigh it again. It holds lots of water.

Note that Bondo sells a separate wood filler and they recommend using wood stabilizer before using the wood filler.

Jim

Thanks for the resource!

I got introduced to rotdoctor 20 years ago when I was rescuing a 40 year old wooden boat. The transom was good for several years- then the other side got funky so I replaced the whole thing. The wood got tossed on the compost pile and every so often the 'rotdoctored' piece gets to the top of the pile to remind me about that fun old boat.

After I realized it had been 10 years on the door repair I went out to take a better look at it. Wish I'd written down what kind of paint I'd used, too. The door looks as good as the day I finished it. [right down to the outside latch not being installed yet]

The stuff isn't cheap--- but it sure does work well.

Jim

I still haven't had a chance to rescue my shed door but with all of the suggestions here I think I can do it. I replaced the shed that was already in place when I bought this house because the previous homeowner had started a compost pile behind it and it was so overgrown with weeds about 10' high that it was impossible to get in there to fix it, plus I kept hearing wildlife in there and not sure what it was. The rot was coming through the back of the shed and it was full of holes. I was afraid of snakes being the wildlife so I hired someone to grade it to the ground before putting in a new shed. This time I'm not sure why the rot other than maybe the composition of the door material. And maybe the way the door sits against the ramp holds too much water. Maybe there is a treatment or covering that I can use on the ramp that won't hold water so much. I have to have the ramp for my riding mower.

-snip-

Picture is worth a thousand words-- Depending on the size of the door-- if it is made of particle board-- or even OSB-- it might be worthwhile to replace at least some of it.

North, east, south or west wall? Shaded?

Jim

I haven't read every post in this thread, but I'm wondering if anyone suggested replacing the door. With the expense and labor of using wood stabilizer, it seems that replacing the rotted parts might be better. Particle board in a wet environment is bad news...it isn't rotting, it is just coming unglued.

IF the ramp is wood, perhaps a strip can be cut across it just to allow runoff and avoid pooling against the door.

As someone else said, a picture is worth a thousand words.

When I picture (in my mind) a ramp, I picture a surface that slopes away from the door. When I picture a surface that slopes away from the door, I have trouble picturing water pooling against the door.

It sure would be nice to know that the OP means when she says "And maybe the way the door sits against the ramp holds too much water."