Sorry if this has been asked before.
I noticed yesterday that the inside of my fairly new and not cheap shed,
the door is starting to rot at the bottom. Ants are all over it. Can
I sand it and treat it with something? The wood isn't solid wood in the
doors, I don't know what to call it, it's sort of mottled looking. The
rest of the shed is solid wood.
MinWax epoxy wood and there's a liquid for repairing dry rot before
applying the epoxy fill.
*The Minwax wood hardener is excellent for getting into the wood fibers.
The wood filler is identical to auto body filler and does a good job of
filling in holes. Home Depot and Lowes are eliminating these products in
their efforts to be more environmentally friendly. Unfortunately the water
based substitutes that they now sell are not the same.
..or if you want something stronger, albeit a bit less forgiving when
it comes to sanding and shaping, DuraGlass might be an option.
In the generalist of senses, it's a bondo-like filler embedded with
Some say to use DuraGlass for your major filling and shaping and then
use bondo as the final coat since it's so much easier to finish.
The website site doesn't mention using it on wood, but I can state
with 100% certainty that it works well for repairing rotted window
You may want to practice on some scrap wood before you attack your
projects to get a feel for cure time, sanding ability, etc.
Since this product contains fiberglass, consider wearing a decent dust
mask while working with it, especially while sanding it.
It can be purchased at automobile parts stores and marine supply
stores like West Marine. If your 'chain' auto store doesn't carry it,
one the independent stores will. We have a couple of retail auto paint
shops in my area that carry it too.
Then there's Amazon and lots of other online sources.
On Fri, 1 Jun 2012 00:23:23 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
I'd use the Marine stores if you need it right away. You'll pay a
premium, but I wouldn't use the automotive bondo near wood. I think
it holds too much moisture and will accelerate the rotting of the
nearby wood. Bondo makes a marine grade filler that doesn't
hold [as much? ] moisture.
That's where I'd go---
[or back here where I got the stuff for my garage door *-10? years
ago. Still perfect-
[just checked my files-- Aug 2002 is when I used it on my door]
And surrounded by impervious stuff like metal or paint. Make a
gob- weigh it- toss it into a bucket of water overnight and weigh it
again. It holds lots of water.
Note that Bondo sells a separate wood filler and they recommend using
wood stabilizer before using the wood filler.
I got introduced to rotdoctor 20 years ago when I was rescuing a 40
year old wooden boat. The transom was good for several years-
then the other side got funky so I replaced the whole thing. The
wood got tossed on the compost pile and every so often the
'rotdoctored' piece gets to the top of the pile to remind me about
that fun old boat.
After I realized it had been 10 years on the door repair I went out to
take a better look at it. Wish I'd written down what kind of paint
I'd used, too. The door looks as good as the day I finished it.
[right down to the outside latch not being installed yet<g>]
The stuff isn't cheap--- but it sure does work well.
I still haven't had a chance to rescue my shed door but with all of the
suggestions here I think I can do it. I replaced the shed that was
already in place when I bought this house because the previous homeowner
had started a compost pile behind it and it was so overgrown with weeds
about 10' high that it was impossible to get in there to fix it, plus I
kept hearing wildlife in there and not sure what it was. The rot was
coming through the back of the shed and it was full of holes. I was
afraid of snakes being the wildlife so I hired someone to grade it to
the ground before putting in a new shed. This time I'm not sure why the
rot other than maybe the composition of the door material. And maybe
the way the door sits against the ramp holds too much water. Maybe
there is a treatment or covering that I can use on the ramp that won't
hold water so much. I have to have the ramp for my riding mower.
Picture is worth a thousand words-- Depending on the size of the
door-- if it is made of particle board-- or even OSB-- it might be
worthwhile to replace at least some of it.
North, east, south or west wall? Shaded?
The inside is particle board, the outside seems solid. I'll get pictures
Thurs. The doors face northish and it is next to a 6' fence on the left
side that faces mostly east. Behind it is also a 6' fence (it's on a
corner of my property). It gets a lot of sun but I guess the bottom of
the doors are mostly shaded due to a very poofy Crepe Myrtle next to it
on the westish side.
That is a very good possibility too. But would ants and termites
co-habitate? My area can be plagued with swarmers and I've had to have
my house treated, and am on a maintenance plan to keep it termite free
but I've seen swarmers out during the spring and they took care of a
tree stump so I never had to have it removed. Far enough from the house
that I wasn't worried, but it's possible they're attacking my shed now.
The first spring after I bought this house I kept seeing winged
creatures in the bathtub in the lower level of the house. I finally
realized they were termite swarmers when I found the difference between
termites and ants in that stage. Ants have jointed antenna and termites
have straight ones. Body shape at the thorax is also different.
Checked around and found a pest control company that uses Termidor.
Actually now that you mention that and I questioned it, I used to get
ants in my house in the spring but haven't had them since Termidor and
that's been 10 years now. The pest control company inspects yearly but
I guess the first clue I'll see to know it needs another treatment will
be ants. So ignore my question about ants and termites co-habitating.
I guess I know the answer. :) Wow did I ramble or what.......
Yike! Does the pest control company take care of the shed, too? You in
Florida? In FL, it is not "will I get termites" but "When". I'm
posting a link to one of the articles on U of Fla website that has scads
of good, useful info for gardens and homes:
This article is about subterranean termies, but has links to find
whatever you need....carpenter ants are known to inhabit termite
tunnels, but both can be found in same conditions. Damp or rotted wood.
Here is article about carpenter ants:
When I lived in Fla, my husband was the condo building mgr/handyman. We
worked on lots of long-neglected problems that resulted from poor
maintenance. U of Fla has good articles about PREVENTING infestations
and how to find signs of term. infestation. Carpenter ants (and fire
ants) are interesting critters and not that difficult to manage. Read
up on these before you dump buckets of poison around...just cleaning up
landscaping, caulking gaps in building, painting, can do a great deal to
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