Best way to cut off bottom of studs?

[jameswaters]

I have a weird problem. I bought a shed with a wooden plywood floor. The guy who built it did some strange things to it. The strangest is that he made the walls with no bottom plate. The 2x4 studs just sit on top of the plywood and he put one 2" drywall screw in each stud. That seemed to work when the shed was at the place it was built, but I moved it about 20 miles. By the time I got it home, the walls were starting to come off the floor. While jacking and leveling the shed the walls were starting to come off the floor completely and once side was almost off when I listed the front to remove the trailer from under the shed floor. I had to add some temporary 2x4s to the exterior of the building and screw them to the walls to keep the walls on the floor.

I decided the only way to fix this is to saw 1 1/2 inches off each stud and add a bottom plate like there should have been in the firsdt place. The problem I am trying to figure out, is how to best saw off this inch and a half. The inside of the shed is just the 2x4s, the exterior is made of 5/8 treated plywood. With the plywood siding, I cant just cut across these studs. I'll be cutting toward the plywood. But what kind of saw should I use?

I have a circular saw, but I dont think I can get it that low, since they table part of this saw. I have a sawsall, but I'd have to lay it flat against the floor, and even then I dont think I can cut off only a inch and a half due to the thickness of the saw body. I also have a saber saaw, which is slow, but at the moment seems to be the only option aside from a hand saw.

Anyone have any other ideas or suggestions.

Thanks JW

[Jim Elbrecht]

Though it seems strange to today's standards, my 120 yr old house has no bottom plate. We didn't need any bottom plates until sheetgoods became the quick-and-dirty way to cover a wall.

-snip-

Bang it back together as best you can. Add a couple of 16D nails to each stud. If you're going to sheetrock it throw a piece of 2x4 in the gap.

If you sell it to someone else that is going to move it tell them to be careful.

Enjoy the shed.

Jim

[dadiOH]

I think I'd add a 2x4 along the inside bottom of the studs then fasten from the outside to it through the siding and studs. I realize there isn't much meat in the ply for the inside 2x4s so I'd glue them to the ply and use screws to hold in place til the glue dries.

[Bob-tx]

After you get them sawed off, how are you going to get the plate nailed to the studs.

He is an idea. Instead of a full lower plate, cut 2 X 4s to fit between the studs. Nail this 2 X 4 to the floor between each stud. Then nail the stud onto each 2 X 4 by nailing through the stud into the end of the 2 X 4. You will have to toe nail the end pieces.

Looks like this would do the job. What do you think>

Bob-tx

[willshak]

Bob-tx wrote the following:

That's what I would do.

[Jay Hanig]

I like this idea the best.

Jay

[Art Todesco]

How about a 2x4 on the inside bottom of each stud with the 4" dimension vertical. It could then be nailed or screwed to each stud and then the 2x4 could be toe nailed or screwed to the plywood floor ... sort of like a baseboard. Maybe even a 1x4 would work just as well, but the 2x4 would give a little better attachment to the floor. Or, you could even notch the 1x4 into each stud, but that would be a lot more work.

[Jim Elbrecht]

What am I missing? This adds nothing to the integrity of the shed. If he is going to sheath the inside, then I might go to that trouble. But all he need to do now is re-attach the studs to the floor. If it worked while stationary, then probably the builder hit something substantial with his sheetrock screws.

I say replace the broken/pulled-out ones with 16d nails or deck screws and be done with it.

Jim

[FatterDumber& Happier Moe]

Since you aren't building a piano, If you are good with a chainsaw and have one with a sharp chain you can cut them off and then clean up the cut with something like this,

I'd use long screws toenailed in when putting in new plate.

[Eric in North TX]

I'd just get a joist hanger for each one.

[RicodJour]

You could use metal connectors, like Simpson Strong-tie makes, to attach each stud to the plywood. The big box stores have a good selection to choose from.

R

[terry]

Suggestion The blade on my el cheapo 7.25" circular saw is 1.25 inches from the edge of the bottom plate and it will cut almost 3 inches deep (typical 2 b 4 being some 3.75" thick?) Seems likely that one could make a mark on each stud 1.75 inches from bottom end cut off the end (finsih of with the sawz etc. or hand saw. Probaly on about 40 cuts in total? Then slip pieces of 2 by 4 under each stud. Question does the 2 by 4 'bottom plate' have be a one continuous piece? Perhaps individual bits under each stud each long enough to be nailed down both side of the stud? Or; pull the studs down to floor level by some means (a pulley etc.) and run a piece of 90 degree metal flashing along the angle between the floor and each stud screwing it to both floor and each stud through the metal; that should hold it together? It is not essential to have a bottom 2 by 4 plate! unless you want to use some sort of wall board inside? And even then some scarp blocks of 2 by tacked in between each pair of studs .....would be enough to nail to. A cordless or electric drill/screw-gun might be useful with long enough screws to to reach whatever is under the edge of the floor. Some 3.5 inch construction screw put in with a drill can provide a lot of power to pull those studs down to bottom on the floor.

[WW]

Bob TX has the best and easy solution. See his reply. WW

[Mark]

why cut them at all, put the plate under the existing studs? Mark

[dpb]

WW wrote: ...

I don't know about "best" altho is "easy"...

Like Jim E I don't see much point in the baseplate fill-in unless OP is going to sheetrock or otherwise panel the interior.

What he really needs is a tight connection to keep wind forces from ripping a side loose during a storm and for that I'd suggest ties near the corners and 1-2 along the walls depending on how long they are as being adequate for most anything; I think the one on every stud is way overkill for the purpose. Other than that, I'd do as Jim says and simply toenail w/ 16's and go on.

--

[mkirsch1]

Why do people have to come up with the most asinine and complicated solutions?

If you're bent on having a bottom plate, then finish the job and knock the walls clear of the floor. Add your bottom plate. Toe nail the studs back to the bottom plate. Done.

Most shed kits are designed with no bottom plate. You're not talking about a major structure here, only a 6' tall, 10x10 shed. Works fine.

[The Post Quartermaster]

This is the only valid idea. It's really a no-brainer if you stop and think about it.

[RonB]

How big is it? If not huge, brace as needed and cut the needed 1-1/2" off of the bottom with a sawzall and tap the 2x4 bottom plate in place. You will have to be careful not to get into the sheeting with the saw; and you might have to splinter some of the bottom chunks out. The saw should also take care of any nails sticking up from below. Toe-"nail" with 2-1/2" or 3" screws. Weird, yes but is should work.

Big shed, bigger problem, but it sounds like you have already moved it.

RonB

[RonB]

I just went out and measured my Milwaukee saws-all. As you indicate it will be difficult but I think mine would allow me to do the above with a 2"x4" guide block for the blade.

RonB

[HeyBub]

I'd say forget the bottom plate. To increase the integrity, simply panel the inside with oodles of screws in 1/4" up paneling. Even cheaper is to use

1x4s for diagonal bracing.

Make sure the structure is straight and plumb before attaching the panels, 'cause it ain't gonna move in any direction after you do.