Hmmm, I stand corrected. I don't think I ever saw a fastener listed
as 'structural', but the ones you linked to have the word structural
right in the name. Maybe that's because they're "Uber-grade"... ;)
Over-analyzing, over-reacting, and then over-building is a waste of
time and money.
It's bad engineering.
Evan - you are WRONG. Screws can easily accomplish the desired
result.. Anything a nail can do, a screw can do - just need the right
screw. A carriage bolt can NOT be used to fasten a stud to a plate,
and a lag screw would split the 2X4 , for sure..
I've built a lot with screws, and have never had a failure
On Thu, 22 Jul 2010 22:30:42 -0400, email@example.com wrote:
Here's an update. I found it easy to cut off the bottom of the studs.
Just lay mu circular saw on it's face, it takes off exactly 1.5 inch.
But the depts of blade does not go into the whole 2x4, so I finished
with a saber saw with a special blade made to cut flush to a surface.
I used a combination of many suggestions on here. The parts of the
walls (mostly just the front wall) which was still attached to the
floor, I used blocks of 2x4 between each stud. On the two ends, I put
bottom plates. I only did 6 feet at a time to keep the walls from
settling after I cut several of them, and I also wedged a 2x4 under
the roof and against floor to keep things in place. I used both nails
and screws to toe nail the studs to the bottom plate, and also used
both to attach the plate to the floor. While they doubled all the
floor joists, the outer ones where the walls attach are single ones,
so I can only hit the floor joist off the rear half of the plate. I'm
not completely done, but close and it's MUCH stronger now.
I still can not understand how they built this shed. There's no top
plate either. The roof joists are screwed to the INSIDE of each stud.
But then they added a horizonal 2x4 against the studs on the inside.
Only used ONE screw in EVERY OTHER stud...... I added a bunch of 16D
sinker nails in each stud. I think I'm gonna add a few of those metal
plates that they use to make trusses on a few of those roof
connections, just to assist with winds and snow loads. But I still
can not understand how they built it like this???? I can only think
that they attached the plywood to the 2x4, flipped over the walls, and
stoof them up. Nothing else makes sense.
As for fastners, I used nails and decking screws (both) in each stud
and to the floor. I prefer nails as far as ease of installation.
Much easier to swing a hammer than piss around with drills, cords,
stripped tips, and/or dead batteries. I found it easiest to nail
everything first, then add screws with a plug in drill to each stud.
What do they call those metal truss plates with the spikes sticking
On Jul 23, 3:44 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Splice or connector plates.
The rafters nailed to the sides of the studs and supported by a ledger
was the standard way to attach floor joists to studs in balloon-
framing. Floor joists spanning 15' and carrying full loads - mud job
bathrooms, etc. - were supported by three or four face nails and
frequently only one 20d nail though the ledger into the stud.
More nails is not necessarily stronger, but is more likely to cause
splits, immediately and over time.
I am still unclear on how it is that your shed doesn't have rim
joists. If there are rim joists the outer half of the stud is
directly above the framing and all the work of cutting the studs and
adding plates/blocking was unnecessary.
Your last comment about screws clearly indicates you don't have a
cordless impact driver. They rarely strip screws unless someone is
meat-fisted. You should check one out.
I'm glad you found a solution that worked for you...
I don't remember what the method is called, but it sounds like a "truss"
design. Basically, the stud and rafter are assembled on the floor, then
the whole assembly is tilted up and braced with the other truss
assemblies (much like standard roof truss construction). There was an
article many, many years ago in Fine Homebuilding magazine showing small
houses being built this way. If I remember correctly, it was supposed to
save materials or something.
The spiked connector plates used in roof trusses are usually installed
with hydraulic presses in a factory. Not exactly an on-site option.
They do make versions with holes that you can nail in place, but I would
probably opt for plywood glued (construction adhesive) and screwed to one
or both sides of the rafters.
Screws offer a number of advantages over nails. For one, they don't pull
out easily like nails can, and can pull joints together tighter, and
won't loosen over time. It's also easier to drive screws in tight spaces
when you don't have enough room to swing a hammer (though a pneumatic air
nailer will overcome that also). Another advantage, it's easy to back a
screw out if you need to change something than to destroy the wood trying
to pull a nail back out.
Stipping is usually not a problem with square drive or "combi-drive"
screws. Deck screws with Torx style heads are showing up in home centers
now also. With a freshly charged battery, I can easily drive many dozens
of screws with my old 18V Craftsman drill/driver.
The big problem with screws is that they can be brittle. A nail will bend
if force is applied to the side, but a screw will usually snap off. Of
course, that usually depends on the screw. Drywall screws are basically
worthless for anything other than drywall. The shanks are thin, the
phillips heads strip out easily, and they snap easily if too much torque
is applied. But most deck screws have thicker shanks, and I use them
routinely for numerous tasks. In most cases, the wood splits and cracks
before the screw breaks or pulls out.
For heavy duty applications, I like to use Simpson Strong Drive screws.
They're usually located with all the metal joist hangers and whatnot in
the home centers. They look a little like lag bolts, but are self
drilling. I discovered them a few years ago when installing seismic hold
down anchors in our house. They drive easily with the appropriate socket
in my drill, and don't split the wood like lag bolts can.
You want the floor and the rest of the structure to remain attached to each
other and are suspicious of having to rely on gravity. That is, if the shed
blows over, you want the floor to go with it.
I don't think a baseplate with do anything to improve structural integrity.
I dont want it to blow over at all. I'm putting in ground anchors to
hold it tight in case of a wind storm. Of course if the floor stays
and not the walls and roof, what's the point. Nothing will survive a
tornado, but this should survive any strong winds when I'm done.
If for no other reason, that base plate helped get the walls lined up.
It was part way off the floor in some places and part too far inward
in others. Rather than line up each stud one at a time, I just get
attach the base plate and line up the two ends, and fasten it all
down. Besides that, I can now fasten the WHOLE stud with toe nails,
rather than just the outer 1.5 inches. Yea, the plate is only nailed
on the outer 1.5 inches but there's more surface there. Plus I
eliminated all the weave in the plywood that was starting to occur
between studs (and a lot of rain we have had). The whole shed is
stable now, and it was pretty flimsy before, and I still have one wall
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