Wrap the walls with roofing felt (tar paper) or building wrap, then add
siding or a layer of thin rough sawn plywood to cover it all. You can use
"Z" flashing if you can't find sheets tall enough to reach from top to
Another option... Unscrew the plywood from the studs, add 3/4" furring
strips to the studs, then reattach the plywood with longer screws. Brace
the building and you can do one or two sheets at a time. This would let
you extend the plywood over the floor structure to keep out leaks, then add
"Z" flashing at the top and add a strip of plywood to make up the
If there's only 12 screws in each sheet, it almost sounds easier to
dismantle the shed for the supplies, then rebuild it the way it should have
been. Assuming the rest of the shed has so few fasteners, it should come
apart with minimal damage to the materials.
On Jul 19, 4:40 am, email@example.com wrote:
How big is it? If not huge, brace as needed and cut the needed 1-1/2"
off of the bottom with a sawzall and tap the 2x4 bottom plate in
place. You will have to be careful not to get into the sheeting with
the saw; and you might have to splinter some of the bottom chunks
out. The saw should also take care of any nails sticking up from
below. Toe-"nail" with 2-1/2" or 3" screws. Weird, yes but is should
Big shed, bigger problem, but it sounds like you have already moved
I'd say forget the bottom plate. To increase the integrity, simply panel the
inside with oodles of screws in 1/4" up paneling. Even cheaper is to use
1x4s for diagonal bracing.
Make sure the structure is straight and plumb before attaching the panels,
'cause it ain't gonna move in any direction after you do.
LOL... Add a decorative trim board at the bottom of the sheathing...
It is not rocket science... Even though someone who would try and
cut out the bottoms of studs in a shed to install a plate is trying to
make it such...
Adding the plate under the plywood is the best option in this case...
Since there is no structure to support the roof temporarily as the
wall studs are cut... You would have a difficult time getting the
plate in under the studs after you cut them...
Best option is to combine several of the solutions offered here:
Install plate under plywood, nailing into the studs with long enough
nails to grab... The supplement this with the blocking between the
studs which are screwed into the plate underneath the floor...
On Jul 20, 9:27 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Umm... NO... Deck screws are NOT structural... In actual
they are ONLY used to attach the decking boards down to the joists...
You CAN NOT and should not be using decking screws to attach the
framing elements to each other... That is what lag bolts and carriage
bolts are for... Strong metal with decent thickness is required when
you are going to be relying on the connected pieces to support weight
and deal with any sort of forces like wind or snow loads...
Use nails to attach the plate to the studs, they are thicker and
than decking screws... If you were going to add auxiliary blocking
between the studs after installing a plate underneath the studs, it
would be ok to attach those to the plate using screws because the
blocking is not meant to be structural at that point, it is being used
to allow for the ease of attachment for some sort of interior wall
That depends an awfull lot on what nails, and what screws, doesn't
And can also be very "structural" if properly installed.
4 deck screws in that application is stronger than 2 nails - likely
stronger than 3, and won't pull loose nearly as easily. A number 10
deck screw is a pretty hefty screw for the application. If you are not
using PT wood, standard "construction screws" will also work, but
coated deck screws drive more easily, and are less likely to corrode
Screws will produce a more rigid and longer lasting assembly than
nails because they are much less likely to work out, or loosesn.
(which is why they are used in cabinetry over nails).
They also have the advantage of being easily removed for "rework"
without totally destroying the framework as is often required with
ardox, spiral, or ring-shanked nails (which hold better than common
nails, but not as well as screws)
Maybe I'm missing something, but it sounds like it would be a lot easier to
cut 2x4 blocking to lay between the studs. You could screw one block to
the floor, then drive a couple of screws through the stud into the end of
the blocking. Add the blocking in the next stud bay, and continue. You'll
end up with the same 2x support along the bottom of the wall, with a lot
less work and potential damage to the existing structure. Nail the siding
into that bottom row of blocking to tie it all together even more. You now
have a bottom plate you can attach drywall or other wall covering if
Because the guy who built it just stood the studs in the floor and put
2 inch drywall screws into the plywood floor. Mind you, only ONE
screw in each stud, and it only penetrated a quarter to a half inch
into the plywood. On top of that he built a super heavy roof
structure with 2x6 rafters spaced 12" apart, and three of them
sandwiched together in the middle, 3/4" plywood decking and shingles.
I moved the shed 20 miles. It's amazing the top did not fall off the
floor, but when I unloaded the shed, the walls started to come off the
floor and I had to do some emergency bracing with angle iron strips
bolted to the walls and floor. No, I do not intend to drywall it.
Just need to get the walls secured to the floor, especially since we
gat bad storms around here at times.
On Jul 22, 3:43 pm, email@example.com wrote:
You're over-analyzing this, and you're not understanding the loads.
If metal connectors can secure a joist, they can certainly hold down a
stud. What exactly is the problem with using a 2x4 metal connector
and using screws? You'd be done by now and would have spent a total
The first objective is to tie the studs down - use metal connectors.
The second possible objective is to compensate for some studs not
being over framing. I don't think you'll have a problem with the
plywood floor deflecting from the studs since you said the joist
spacing at the perimeter is 6" OC. In any event, unless the studs
have unequal loads (how?) they won't move individually. If you're
_still_ concerned, throw some more nails in the 3/4" siding. That
will take care of any differential shear force, which, by the way, is
non-existent unless you're moving the shed!
One objective, $25, an hour, done.
Sigh. ALL screws are non-structural? Do you even know what
structural means? No offense, but you're talking out your ass. Are
all structural components _bolted_ together? I guess you must have a
tough time getting a contractor to bid on your specifications.
Simpson Strongtie, the metal connector manufacturer, manufactures and
sells (STRUCTURAL!) screws. http://www.simpsonstrong-tie.com/ftp/fliers/DIY-SDTPAD10.pdf
But the choice is not at all limited to Simpson's products.
There is no such thing as a fastener that is listed as 'structural',
as structural means different things in different applications. The
only pertinent factors in the choice of fasteners are the loads,
materials involved, price, ease of installation and the ambient/
environmental conditions. There are almost certainly both screws and
nails (and bolts) that will fulfill all of the objectives in almost
any situation, with the determining factors usually being price and
ease of installation.
I prefer nails, myself- but
And the main point is that the OP is going through a whole lot of
angst over a bottom plate that is not going to do a thing to hold the
shed together. Ricodujour's method is better than hacking things to
hell and slapping a useless 2x4 under the studs.
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