So the bed section, that which folds up, now only needs the hardware to be attached, lightly sanded, and painted.
I used the Shaper Origin to cut 6 arcs on the top rails of the platform.
I used a plug-in program for Sketchup to produce the needed SVG file for the arc.
It's looking good and I like your use of modern technology.
I can't wait until you invite us all over for the final reveal.
I just bought some new silk pajamas.
BTDT. I've made more than a few things that ended up being heavier than useful. ;-) Plywood and MDF get heavy.
Thank you!
The Shaper Origin has pretty much found it's way into every job I have done for customers and myself. Except for the kitchen job that I finished at the end of March. Kinda like the Domino, I had no idea that I would use it this much so far. Cutting box joints are a piece of cake and much easier than any jig that I have used, Leigh or Incra iBox.
Just around the corner. I am going to build tower cabinets to put beside it too.
A screen shot of where this is headed.
TMI! ;~)
And I "said" I was steering towards smaller projects.... Covid ended up reversing the insurance only jobs after Harvey. I was not going to do big jobs, well any jobs at insurance rates.
I built a store room at our other house about 15 years ago. I used treated 3/4" plywood for the flooring. My dad and I could hardly carry a single sheet to my back yard.
I have one of the Dewalt SCMS stands for my Bosch SCMS (I have a Bosch stand for my Dewalt planer, so go figure). The brackets didn't fit well so I built a table with some cubbyholes to store stuff in the front and a place for a power strip and automatic DC switch in the back. The thing is so heavy that I can't get it on or off the stand by myself. Classic case of over-design.
If your comment was prompted by my Kapex in the picture.... I could not be happier with the Kapex, stand, and extension wings.
The Kapex stays on the portable stand and is simple to place where needed. I once had a dedicate miter saw station and a Delta saw which worked well but was mostly in the way 90% of the time.
The Kapex stand and left and right extension wings separate easily and quickly. A single thumb screw on each wing locks the wings into place. The wings have a single fold down pipe/bar to hold the outer end up. They are adjusted for height with a single thumbscrew on each also. Each wing sits/indexes/locks into a v-grove on the Kapex. And each extension has a telescoping extension also. These extend each side between 7~8' IIRC. So the Kapex set up can be narrow for storage or small cuts, about 24" wide or about 16' wide with both extensions and their extensions.
And those extensions are calibrated, have rules and stops and a ruled stop for the telescoping extensions similar to the gold telescoping Incra miter fence.
It takes about 2 minutes to retrieve the extensions and attach to the Kapex.
Too much? ;~)
No, just the over-heavy projects. The Kapex is an awesome tool but I just can't see any purpose in the _expensive_ stand. Maybe if I were an installer but for the home? No way.
The nice thing about the Kapex is that it'll go against the wall. My Bosch takes almost as much space as my Unisaw.
Yes, too much (money). Kapex, yes. Stand, no.
If room is not an issue I can understand a permanent, less portable set up and location.
The nice thing about the Kapex "set-up" is that it'll set up most anywhere in no time, against the wall, in a tight spot for storage, or in the middle of the shop for a few cuts.
Well the stand and extensions were pretty pricey compared to the Kapex. Both together 3.5 years ago was just under $2600 TTL.
Expensive, absolutely, but with excellent dust collection and ease of set up I do not hesitate to pull it out for a couple of cuts.
Much easier to visualize now. In the room and wall that it will eventually be located.
Put it on wheels and shove it in the corner with the rest of the large tools if space is a problem. The Dewalt stand is very good for that, too. I intend to use it for my HF SCMS for outdoor work. If it rains, so what?
No matter how easy it is to set up, it's even easier to bring the wood to it.
The Kapex is $1500, so that's $1100 for the stand. That is rather expensive for a few pieces of bent and painted 3/4" metal conduit. ;-)
Even worse is the router table. I looked at one of them at Highland a few years ago (they've been closed for Covid for 15 months). The thing was flimsy and even rocked on the floor. I'd be afraid to use it. The fence was crap too.
For anyone but an installed, the MFT is pretty silly, IMO. It's not very strong, seems wobbly, and the dog holes in particle board seem to be a bad idea.
I can't imagine setting it up for just a couple of cuts. I don't even like taking the track saw out for a couple of cuts but there really isn't an easier way. Systainers are another one of the good ideas for installers but expensive, less than ideal, storage for everyone else.
I understand the concept of the Murphy bed. But it does look heavy for even that. It's going to take some pistons to lift that.
Yes it is but when it works this well....
I have had a MFT for about8 years now. I like it even though it wobbles a bit with out the leg stiffeners. And I use it a lot, and fold it up when not in use. Plenty strong, it just wobbles. And the MDF top, not particle board, has held up very well, the dog holes are used often and show no signs of wear
Well there you go. A couple of cuts is not an issue for me. I make those cuts to square stock and for when I buy stock that is too long to comfortably cross cut on the TS.
Jury on the abstainers is still out for me. Too much expense added to the cost of the tool. But I do like dedicated holders for my tools, even my Shaper Origin came in a large abstainer. I feel like the Systainers are better than what "most"of the competition is offering. One exception is the case that came with my free Bosch impact driver. It is square and flat. That makes storing much much easier that the plastic injection molded cases that are round everywhere.
So the Systainers have a lot of advantages for me, they just should not be that expensive.
Yes, gas struts like on GM vehicle hoods, Ford too. I built one of these about 10 years ago with the basic same hardware from the same company. It works well and the hardware is plenty sturdy. AND the manufacturer has plans to build it and several parts have to made out of
3/4" plywood to prevent slitting and failure at the pressure points of the pivot.I am right at the 80 lb weight limit for the mattress and the company modified the plans for me for the 14" thick mattress.
So the bed frame that pivots will be elevated up about 4" to mate the male and female pivot hardware.
Eighty pounds isn't as much as I thought. That's only a sheet of 3/4" plywood. I was thinking three times that, anyway. Gas struts will easily handle that.
Up and out, if I understand? Is it going to need a ladder to get into the bed?
A card table warbles a bit too. ...about the same bit.
The color looked more like particle board. I don't have one that I can look at, so thought that's what it was.
I'm surprised the dog holes last. I have some benches made out of MDF on solid core doors (particle board). I was planning to drill (route) dog holes in it but was afraid they wouldn't hold up.
My SCMS is always set up. I use it too often just to whack 2xs.
Blow mold cases suck worse but it would systainers would be much better if the plastic was somewhat softer. Brittle and tools doesn't go well.
For the time being they work but I plan to make them redundant.
on solid core doors (particle board). I was planning to drill (route) dog holes in it but was afraid they wouldn't hold up.
I wonder if the term "dog holes" are being stretched here. I think Leon uses the holes with the Festool clamps, which do not rely on the strength of the hole or having a thick table. Traditional dogs require at least 1 1/2" table thickness. I use 3/4" round dogs and hold-down clamps. I have a re-purposed dining table that has a 3/4" solid wood top. I glued pieces of 3/4" baltic birch underneath, then drilled 3/4" holes using the Leevalley 3/4" drill guide to drill the holes with a hand drill. It works really well and seems to be holding up.
Bob
And the card table works just fine for what it was intended. I thought that I would have an issue with the wobble but I have never taken the extra steps to buy or make the leg stiffeners. I really only notice the wobble when I set the MFT up. It really does not wobble enough to be detrimental for anything I do on it, including inlay with the Origin.
They probably last because the dogs fit well, Festool dogs. ;~) Either way an MDF with dog holes is easier to replace than a solid wood work bench.
So on this Murphy bed project I am trimming the edges of the MDO with poplar. I am cutting all of those pieces to length, 20 pieces and on each end square the end, between 30 and 40 cuts. Here is the dust build up on the Kapex so far. Zoom in on the right side of the miter scale and near the miter lock. ;~)
I will have to admit that on the kitchen job something was not right, IIRC there was a hunk of wood disturbing the suction path and sawdust was considerable, considering this is a Kapex, but not now.
The systainers seem brittle but I have yet to chip,crack, or break one and my oldest are about 13 years old, and I have 10 of them.
Nope, I use these too.
Perhaps but I've seen in-line bench clamps used with MFT tables.
Two of my tables have an 1-5/8" solid core door, one with MDF and the other, melamine, sacrificial tops. I also have a couple of 1-3/4" maple-top benches but I'm not concerned with them yet. Yes, I'd like to use the Festool style clamps in the MDF topped bench, if it's not too thick, but also in-line bench clamps, dogs, and similar.
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