You want the screwdriver bits that have a tapered square shank,
designed to be used directly in a bit brace. I've seen them in slotted
and Phillips, but never Posidrive. Stanley, Irwin, Millers Falls are
That said, though, I couldn't find them in any recent catalogs. They
may have been discontinued. Perhaps eBay or one of the antique tool
sellers will be your best source.
I'd stay away from the adapters that take the 1/4" hex bits. They are
OK for smaller screws, but the hex bits just aren't up to the larger
ones. Which are the ones you want the bit brace for.
"Tim W" wrote:
>Reading an old book on boatbuilding, the writer says the _best_ tool for
>removing old corroded screws, or any tricky screwing operation is a
>screwdriver bit in an old brace (brace & bit cranked hand drill thing).
>Sounds like just what I need, but a quick search reveals no source.
If you are going to screw around with a wood boat, J/D will become a
Tim W (in vAtUf.23261$ email@example.com) said:
| Reading an old book on boatbuilding, the writer says the _best_
| tool for removing old corroded screws, or any tricky screwing
| operation is a screwdriver bit in an old brace (brace & bit cranked
| hand drill thing). Sounds like just what I need, but a quick search
| reveals no source. Were these items once manufactured? Are they
| still available? Posi also? in the uk? with the old square section
| tapered shank for locking into the chuck of the brace? Or can the
| brace be adapted to take a hexagonal shanked bit?
I chucked up a magnetic hex bit holder in an old brace and use
inexpensive hex-shanked screwdriver bits. I use mine almost
exclusively for square drive wood screws; but would expect that this
lash-up would work well for any type of screw.
DeSoto, Iowa USA
There's a lot to be said for that - at least for slotted screws. I also
still use mine for drilling big holes with spade bits - I like the
controllability as it breaks through.
yes, Draper still make them. Maybe Stanley / Record too.
I'd suggest getting an old one though, and certainly avoiding the
Draper. If the steel rod of the frame is too thin, then they become
springy. If you're putting a lot of force onto the end button to hold it
into a screw slot then they bounce up and down uncontrollably.
You also want an old one with a wooden handle, not moulded plastic with
a seam line across the middle.
Best of all is perhaps a "joist brace", which has a short body and a
single side handle. It's intended for use between floor joists, but it
also has less spring to it, a shorter distance between tool and rear pad
handle and just as much torque.
The older antique braces had button locking to hold the bits, which is
why old bits have a notch filed in their square tapered shank. Later and
modern ones have a two jaw tapered chuck. This will _not_ grip a
parallel sided drill bit. You also need to get a good screwdriver bit to
fit it, and although pozidrive bits do exist, they're hard to find.
You also want a brace with a good quality lockable ratchet. I'd suggest
40-50 year old Stanley kit off eBay.
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