Rugh-Roh, that wasn't my intent. I was enjoying the dialog and
understanding why people use what they use, compared to why I use what I
use. Something of an academic exercise to make usenet both useful to me and
I just have a 3/8 DeWalt variable speed drill motor. I think mine is a 6A
motor. I retrofitted a 1/2" chuck to it a long time ago just to handle a
couple of bigger things that I put in it. It has plenty of power to handle
the things I use it for so putting the 1/2" chuck on never concerned me.
Like you, I don't want to be hauling out the wheel barrel just to move my
drill around, so big enough to do what I need, is big enough for me. I
chuck up pretty much what ever I need to do the job. I've got things like
ground down 3/8" socket wrench extensions that I can chuck into it for
running nuts and bolts as might be required. Beats grabbing an impact gun
sometimes and is much faster than an air ratchet. Of course I have #2 and
#3 Phillips tips. What I like about it over my cordless gun is that for
jobs that might be similar to what the OP posted that got this thread going,
it has the power to lay into it and very slowly try to work a screw. You
don't have to hit the trigger and develop too much speed right off the bat,
only to eat up a screw head.
But I will say this John - I was a long time getting into grabbing a hand
plane, tuning it up and putting it seriously to a piece of work. I don't
get into it like some of the guys here, but once I got my plane tuned up and
sharp, I was so impressed with every aspect of using it that I haven't
grabbed my power planer since. It works extremely well, is easier to grab
and "setup" than my power planer (don't have to move crap away from the
outlet to plug it in), and most important - it's so much more fun to use. I
still get a thrill out of watching a curl grow out of it, and love the sound
of it moving across a piece of wood. Simple minds, simple pleasures. All
that to say that so many of the old tools are indeed much cooler to use. I
wouldn't want to dissuade anyone from going that route - even if being
cooler was the only reason, and sometimes there's other reasons to stick
As for drill motors, I believe in small tools with lots of power. Big tools
are hard to maneuver, sometimes hard to use accurately. I like a 3/8" motor
with a rating like mine (6A) or thereabouts, and a good trigger. I like to
be able to creep the motor up from a dead stop to just barely trying to
turn. And of course - it just wouldn't be right unless it really whizzed
too. For me, the DeWalt has served that well. But... don't you go putting
that brace and bit up in the attic.
I took a look at those drills, Mike, and noticed that they don't have
side handles. How do you handle the torque that they produce? That
short pistol grip handle wouldn't seem to give you much leverage.
I just hold it firmly John. Sometimes I'll hold it sideways so the grip is
off to a side instead of straight down and I can get a bit more feel of
control that way. I've never had the need for a side handle. I have
grabbed right around the body of the motor before, again - to get the feel
of more control. Don't know if it actually provided much more control, or
was just a feel thing. I guess I just don't find a drill motor to be very
unsteady feeling in my hand, so as to need something like the side handle.
I usually don't just squeeze the trigger to full speed either, and that
helps with the torque thing. Running a speed bore into a floor joist is one
thing - I'll just hog right into that, but for most other things I generally
attack the work with less torque. I'm one of those guys that you'll never
see running a drill motor up to high speed with a metal cutting bit in it,
or with a tech adapter chucked in, so again - the torque thing isn't as big
a problem as you might think.
... which shows that such drills are limited in torque: If it had the
necessary torque for example to tighten (or loosen) a cars wheel nut
(above 100 Nm) you could not hold it without a long side handle.
Do not confuse torque with speed. Unfortunately most (all?) the
cordless screw drivers with a torque control arre uncalibrated, in
other words they just show some numbers without any unit.
Correct. The discussion is about drill motors for light weight work, not
impact guns. Even with a limited torque device like a 6A drill motor one
can encounter situations where the gun escapes their grip. Anyone who has
ever drilled holes through floor joists with a speed bore has experienced
this when the speed bore breaks through.
No confusion. However we experience the torque of the tool in direct
proportion to the speed as we ease into or wail on the trigger.
Haven't tried #24 into hardwood, but I've used a basic corded drill with
a socket adapter to put large lag bolts into 4x4 lumber without predrilling.
I bet a low-rpm 1/2" power drill would do even better. And if you
wanted to really go nuts, try one of these:
What would you chuck into that drill to drive the screws? Remember,
he's talking about wood screws, not lags.
You could also use an impact wrench. Same question, though.
brace is still better for tricky applications. it's the exact
one-to-one relationship of the turns of the brace to the turns of the
get a good quality holder for 1/4" hex screwdriver tips. the tips are
available in almost any size/type you'll ever find. the brace will grab
the holder just fine.
Hello, here is your catagory for eBay, in England:
Collectables> Tools & Hardware> Tools> Carpentry/ Woodworking
There, you can see your catagory links on your left, and you can select "UK
only" in a drop down.
Braces are usually two jawed (98% of them), and the bits have a tapered
square head. Just search through all the pages until you find screwdriver bits
and a brace you want, the best ever made are Yankee Bell system by North
Bros., and later the same by Stanley, as long as it is a Yankee. The model
Nos. are 2101 and the better 2100, 10" swing (5" depth) size is most common.
As I see it, you have braces available there, and drill bits.
The two jawed chuck will also accept shanks that do not have the tapered
square head, as long as it is set in deep enough, so you could cut the handles
off a couple of old screwdrivers, not skinny ones. For drill bits you will need
a bit sharpening file if you buy them used. Only that file is properly designed
for the job, made by Nicholson and available at Lee Valley, or needle files
and small sharpening stones.
Here is an adapter you can get from the US,
It will take 1/4" hex bits that are common, adapted to the brace chuck.
http://axminster.co.uk has a brace and the best bits that are new, but those
prices are beyond, I wouldn't do it.
If you can get someting like Craftsman "screw outs", they could probably
work in a brace as well: