Another kindergarten question for you.
If I use "figure-eights" to attach my 3/4" pine table tops, what
gage/type of screw would you recommend? Keep in mind that unlike your
kitchen table at home, these will be frequently moved, most likely
lifted by the edges of the tabletops.
Is there any reason I couldn't use small garden-variety angle brackets
for this task instead of the figure-eights? Assuming I have a large
enough hole in the part that attaches to the tabletops to allow play,
that is. That way at least one of the two screws won't have any stress
in the direction that would tend to pull it out. Plus I wouldn't need to
drill out recesses for the figure-eights.
As said before, glue and then just nail 'em on and be done.
They won't come off even if all you did was a few 8d finish nails w/o
This was supposed to be 'quick 'n dirty' and you didn't have time to
You can use any thing that will allow movement.
You can also run a couple of wooden supports between the side aprons, in
the direction across the top grain, and drill some slotted holes in the
supports. Pocket hole the supports into he aprons. Attach the tops
through the slotted holes.
I just came across this thread, and it looks like most of the decisions
are made, but I thought I would add my 2 cents worth.
At one time I worked for a good sized theatrical lighting company, we
also made a significany ampunt of props and scenery. Although I was
mainly involved in the technical and electronic side of things I had
quite a bit of exposure to the rest of the operation.
As far as props that did not to be extremely realistic for some reason
went, the word was cheap, fast, quick and dirty and cover things up with
paint (add bondo if needed). We used a lot of 3/4 pine or fir (wheatever
was cheapest) 2X4's, plywood, and tons of grabber screws. Things like
the angle brackets you mention were used if needed. Quality furniture or
cabinet hardware - never. The things that can be done with bondo, paint,
and a little creativity would amaze you, at least from a distance.
If you think you may be called on to do this kind of thing in the future
try to look at the way props are made at a professional company and use
In addition to having a little fun helping out some friends, I'm trying
to learn a few things in the process. I think these tables will be used
for future productions as well. I'd rather they don't split at some
point down the road. Now I have absolutely no experience with such
things; I can only go by what I've heard and the advice I get here.
These will be narrow tables made of cheap 1x6 pine and the "finishing"
will likely be about the same quality as the wood. I'd be perfectly
happy to assemble the entire works with screws, but if damage due to
seasonal changes is likely, I'm willing to go the extra, well, /few
yards/ to prevent it.
Well, that's quite a lot different objective than that given in your
initial posting.... :)
But, w/ lumber-yard wunbasix/four pine, it'll be soft enough that the
what movement there is will be very unlikely to cause a split. What's
more likely to happen is you'll work and work to get a nice smooth top
w/ a solid table surface and after the first few nights w/ the hot stage
lights on them at once you'll notice the 1x6 instead of being ~5-1/2"
wide is closer to 5-3/8" and you've got some nice little cracks
beginning to show between them. And, unless you've tied 'em down pretty
well, they'll also probably start to bow a little. That's 'cuz while
dried, that lumber isn't dried to furniture-grade quality levels and
it's going to shrink some in all likelihood.
Do as you wish but realistically for the purpose even as rudimentary as
you're making them, they're being over-built. Now the self-education on
woodworking technique is a whole different issue--as the last sentence
starts off, on that front do as much as you want and use as many
different ideas as you want.
Just don't ask the question of how to build props... :)
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