Aluminium Saw Table Top

Should one wax an aluminum table top? Or is there another recommended treatment?

Reply to
RedEd
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RedEd asks:

If the aluminum is anodized, it shouldn't need corrosion-proofing. But if it's not, aluminum has a particularly nasty black form of corrosion (surface only: if left alone, it won't keep corroding like ferrous metals). And many of the aluminum table tops I've seen could use a little help in the slickness department.

So, on balance, I'd wax.

Charlie Self

"Say what you will about the ten commandments, you must always come back to the pleasant fact that there are only ten of them." H. L. Mencken

Reply to
Charlie Self

Reply to
George M. Kazaka

I look up.

I see the hook.

The sunlight makes a shiny star right on the point.

Knowing better, and knowing that little star means a barb at the end I still ask,

sigh...

Why?

UA100, fully realizing George has the throttle set for troll, just like to see if he can play out line and finesse setting the hook...

Reply to
Unisaw A100

Hi! Do not BITE! It is a trap- pretty little thing just tempting you into a trap.

Reply to
Lawrence A. Ramsey

Give me a reason. I've been waxing table saw tops for almost 50 years, so why should I change now?

Charlie Self

"Say what you will about the ten commandments, you must always come back to the pleasant fact that there are only ten of them." H. L. Mencken

Reply to
Charlie Self

The wax can transfer to your wood, then when you apply the finish Oh my what fum we will have.

Years ago when they didn't have some of the spray stuff that they have now during the damp periods we had to steel wool the4 machine tops every morning some wood spray a coat of lacquer that in a busy shop did not last to long But wax was an all time no no,

I know that some here on the rec do it and advise others to do it, I was expecting to get flamed from what i said

Well hell the day isn't over yet is it.

But glad you asked George

Reply to
George M. Kazaka

With lure firmly fixed in mouth ... Never had a problem with that as long as I used a wax with no silicone content. However, a little judicious sanding, as you so strongly recommended in a previous thread, IIRC, should set things right.

Reply to
Swingman

Look, some of us just have very hairy saws.

And it's a sensitive subject, so don't take the piss.

Reply to
Andy Dingley
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LOL.....just tell him to use neet.....waxing really hurts.

Reply to
P©WÉ®T©©LMAN

Which finishes are affected by this truly insignificant quantity of wax ?

Silicones, now you're talking, but I just won't have any of them in the workshop.

-- Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

Reply to
Andy Dingley

Reply to
George M. Kazaka

I agree with you, George ... once you've seen/dealt with "fisheye" from silicone, you want no part of it contaminating your wood. I use mostly TopCote the past couple of years, but using Johnson Paste Wax on tool surfaces has never posed a remote problem in that regard.

Reply to
Swingman

Yes. Things slide much easier with wax.

Reply to
CW

That's right, keep wimminz out of the shop 'nless they have *real* gajumbies...

Reply to
Silvan

Already debated to death, but I wanted to offer the perspective of direct personal experience. I've had an aluminum table saw for 5-6 years now. The two factors mentioned both play a big part in my decision to keep it waxed.

Oxidized aluminum rubs off easily, and it leaves black streaks all over the wood. These streaks are a bitch to get off/out, and they're just not cool at all. It also really does make wood slide much more easily. There's little doubt when the table needs another shot of wax.

I use Johnson's on it. I've never had any finish problems from wax rubbing off onto the wood.

Reply to
Silvan

Oh no! He got Charlie!

Reply to
Mark & Juanita

silicone is NOT wax. it's a polymer of oxygen and silicon. it's not even a lipid. no carbon in it. silicone should never come near a wood shop.... Bridger

Reply to
nospam

Silicone should not come near anything.

I hate the stuff with a passion.

Reply to
Mark

Here's my $.02:

1) Aluminum is crappy material for saw tables, planer beds, etc. It has much more "tooth" than cast iron and, therefore. there is more friction to overcome when pushing something (like a piece of wood) over it. It is used because it is CHEAPER not because it is better. 2) Alum. can (as has been pointed out) cause discoloration of the wood as it it softer than cast iron and can actually be transfered to the wood. 3) Anodizing is only a temporary solution since the coating will wear off. 4) Wax does not cause fish eye. Silicone causes fish eye. Period. 5) "Good quality" pastewax does not contain silicone. 6) "Good quality" pastewax, applied to a metal table, allowed to "dry" for a few min. and buffed out with a clean rag, will not transfer to your wood. 7) You can wax your tables (cast iron, aluminum, PL, wood...whatever) with impunity as long as you follow step six. How do I know all of this? Because I have been regularly waxing my tables (with TreWax) for over 30 years and I have never had any problems. This might be a good time to point out that: 1) I have also been using lacquer finishes for 30 years and that 2) because I forbid anything containing silicone in my shop I have never had a problem with fish eye. Wax away. DD

"It's easy when you know how..." Johnny Shines

Reply to
David DeCristoforo

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