SAW SLED QUESTION

I already know how to make a saw sled, so that isn't the question. By the way, for those that recall my heavy-duty saw sled, I still use it, andit works just fine, but it's heavy as Hell. That's not the reason I'm replacing it tho.

I'm going to be making a lot of cutting pieces of 1X4'' plywood, making pieces 3" wide - these cuts need to be consistentll in width. The problem with the present sled, I have to get the cut pieces out of the way, before I can slide the plywood over, and make the next cut.

So, I need another saw sled. I won't start working on it for a bit, so figured I'd ask for some "useful input" (now that's n oxymoron) here before I started work, after all, no sense in reinventing the wheel if you don't have to. I want a sled that will "automatically" tip the cut pieces away from the blade, so I can just slide the piece to be cut over, against a stop block, and make the next cut. I figure the edge, as it's being cut, should (hopefully) push the prior cut over enough to allow the next to drop away. I don't mind if the cut pieces wind up getting tipped over the side of the saw, I'll have a box to catch them.

What I've been mulling over is a 1/4" plywood base that the runners will attach to, and will be the size as the total sled. Then use 3/4" plywood, glued to the 1/4" plywood, and the same size. However, the

3/4" will have a rectanglar cutout on the right side. The rear of the rectangular cut will be maybe 1/4=1/2" or so in front of the rear fence. I figure about the same for the front fence. Then I'm thinking the cut would be about 1/4" or so to the right of the blade - then when the cut is finalized, the cut piece would tip right, and into the low section. It ain't perfect, but I'm thinking it will work. So, unless I get some inputd that's really remarkable, that's the way I'm going.

The question: Anyone got any better idess on how to do what I want?

HANDY TIP: I keep my blood pressure medicine bottle on the back of the stove. Apparently my blood pressure went up bcause of the dorky trolls here. LMAO The dosage has been reduced by half, and should be off it entirely soon. I digress. The pills are in a small plastic bottle, and it sliped down over the back of the stove one day. Real PITA retrieving the bottle. Easy solution - now store the pill bottle in a considerably larger empty Vitamin C bottle. I don't just transfer the pills because the prescription number is on the bottle label. I do keep baby asperin in a larger bottle tho, labeled by printing the contents on a strip of duct tape.

JOAT If it ain't broke, don't lend it.

- Red Green

Reply to
J T
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My question is "Why a sled at all?" How about a sturdy fence attached to the miter gauge that extends to both sides the blade, like the front fence of a sled - just without any bottom. Set up the stop block like you mentioned, and as you cut, you end up pushing a train of cut pieces off the back of the saw. I make sure I push the offcut past the blade when I do this. You can put a "box" on the fence to cover the blade if desired, again similar to a sled.

Just a clarification - this is 1/4" ply cut into 3" x 11" pieces?

Reply to
JeffB

hint: a lot of medications break down due to heat. you may not be getting what you think you're taking in those pills if you leave them next to the stove.

Reply to
Charles Spitzer

Thu, Nov 3, 2005, 11:53am (EST-2) snipped-for-privacy@nospam.stratus.com (Charles=A0Spitzer) doth advise: hint: a lot of medications break down due to heat. you may not be getting what you think you're taking in those pills if you leave them next to the stove.

You cook? With a stove? LOL Yeah, forgot to mention, I don't cook with the stove. Anything I need cooked, I nuke it (loads of microwave recipes on the web, by the way). So no heat problem. Anyway, the large bottle won't roll under anything if it drops.

JOAT If it ain't broke, don't lend it.

- Red Green

Reply to
J T

Thu, Nov 3, 2005, 6:50am (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@no.spam.san.rr.com (JeffB) doth query: My question is "Why a sled at all?" Just a clarification - this is 1/4" ply cut into 3" x 11" pieces?

Interesting. However, my saw's miter gauge sucks, so I don't know if I'll go that route. However, that concept does inspire one or two, more viable, possibiities; don't know if easier to make then my original concept, but definitely better. Thanks.

And, no, the pieces being cut will be 1/2" ply into 3" wide pieces

- around 11-12" long, trimmed to final length later. The pieces will be cut from pieces 11-12" wide X 48" long.

Hmm, interesting. Looks like this time I'll have to make a couple of sketches. That's OK too.

JOAT If it ain't broke, don't lend it.

- Red Green

Reply to
J T

JT:

How about a panel sled instead? Just a flat bottomed ply attached to the runner in either the left or right miter slot.

I'd use the left one, measure to the fence (with a cutoff block attached, so the piece doesn't bind) and saw away.

Perhaps I'm missing something in your problem.

My $.02.

MJ Wallace

Reply to
mjwallace

I don't know why reading this triggered an old memory, but it did. 15-20 years or so ago I was newly and heavily involved in Scouting. Many of the other volunteer dads would come by the campfire after a hard day at camp to sip coffee and swap lies while our cherubs were out creating various acts of mayhem in the dark.

After a particularly rugged day, one of the old Scouters announced he needed something for his aching bones, and shortly wandered back to the fire with his bottle of prune juice. We all looked at him kinda strange until he offered a splash in each cup. The light went on as a healthy slug of a totally forbidden, 80 proof, rheumatiz medication went into a half dozen eagerly offered coffee mugs. He pointed out that NOBODY ever bothers to open a bottle of prune juice in someones camp gear.

We all had a laugh when at the next campout. Just about every one of us now had a prune juice bottle in our cook box.

Reply to
Roy

Thu, Nov 3, 2005, 3:06pm (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@onebox.com who did say: JT: How about a panel sled instead? Perhaps I'm missing something in your problem. My $.02

You're probably not missing anything. But, who am I to know? LOL

Nope, but sorta. It's getting clearer in my mind. Now I'm thiniking a sled with a piece in the right side cut out. Then a gap under the rear fence for the cut pieces to slide out and unde - the pieces will be 1/2" and the sled 3/4". Of course, you realize the advise I'm geting may turn out to be really lousyl, and I'll have to make another sled, after the first one. LOL

JOAT If it ain't broke, don't lend it.

- Red Green

Reply to
J T

Fri, Nov 4, 2005, 3:48am (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@houston.rr.com (Roy) finallly admitted: We all had a laugh when at the next campout. Just about every one of us now had a prune juice bottle in our cook box.

Damn good thing you didn't have any Klingon scouts.

JOAT If it ain't broke, don't lend it.

- Red Green

Reply to
J T

make sure that when the cutoff releases, it goes away from the blade.

I'm pretty sure you were planning for that, but I couldn't quite tell from your description. kickbacks suck, and I'd hate for the wreck to lose it's official resident 'ol fart...

Reply to
bridger

Thu, Nov 3, 2005, 11:28pm (EST-2) snipped-for-privacy@all.costs did spaketh thusly: make sure that when the cutoff releases, it goes away from the blade. I'm pretty sure you were planning for that, but I couldn't quite tell from your description. kickbacks suck, and I'd hate for the wreck to lose it's official resident 'ol fart...

Already planned for. There'll be a small "ledge" about 1/4=1/2" or so, on the right side of the blade. The cut piece should tip right off of that, as soon as the cut is complete, into the cutout part - the ledge will hold it place until the cut is finished, then it tips. I think. I only want to do this once, so been doing a lot of thinking on it. The back of the cutout part will b closed under the one fence, open under the other, so the piece will be "automatically" pushed out - not sure under which fence - each has merits. The right side of the cutout will be closed - I think the cutout will only need to be an inch or 2 wider than the cut piece, but be easy enough to enlarge it a bit if need be. Any suggestions for color(s) if I decide to paint it?

And, you obviously have me confused with someone else..

JOAT If it ain't broke, don't lend it.

- Red Green

Reply to
J T

Thu, Nov 3, 2005, 11:28pm (EST-2) snipped-for-privacy@all.costs also dis saidith: kickbacks suck,

I'm sure they do, but I've never had one. True. Anyway, the present sled is topped by two 2X4 chunks, so even if there was a kickback with that one, It'd pretty well have to destroy the sled before it could ever get to me - and I doubt that would happen. I purposly made it that way. I'm not totally sure what the bridge (or whatever it's called) on the next sled will be like, but it's gong to be as strong for sure. The first one also has some blocking pieces on the user fence, so the only way to grab it and push will not allow fingers anywhere near the blade. I'm a great believer in keeping away from the whirly parts while they're whirling. You'd have to work at it to get cut with the blade while it's turning. I do NOT want to get hurt because I get distracted by something, or star thinging of something else while cutting,; this way if I lose concentration, I should be safe anyway..

JOAT If it ain't broke, don't lend it.

- Red Green

Reply to
J T

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