Apparently you paid little attention to our previous dialog about the
proper blade for a given saw...
Our Constitution needs to be used less as a shield
for the guilty and more as a sword for the victim.
My thought process in writing that was poorly sharpening a blade could
get it out of balance and at 3400 RPM the imbalance would be hard on the
bearings. Thinking about it a little more now, the amounts needed to
get to a dangerous imbalance would probably be quite large and unlikely
to be removed from the whole of the saw blade and not just one location.
Plus, at that speed the imbalance would tend to average out and not be
noticed by either operator or saw.
When I lived in Houston, I had my TS blades sharpened at Circle Saw.
I've since moved to Florida and the town I live in is too small to
support a sharpening service on it own. I now drop them off at my hard
wood supplier who acts as a collection point for a sharpener who picks
up and re-delivers the blades on a weekly schedule. If you use your
blades every day you will need spare blades to tide you over.
I definitely agree you should try out any new sharpener with one blade
to see if you pleased with his work.
I sent mine to Ridge Carbide Tool. Google them and you'll find the
pricing and so forth. I was ready to trash the DeWalt blade that came
with my miter saw after it was used to cut lots of laminate flooring.
I lent it to someone figuring I'd just upgrade to a Ridge blade when
he was done. Instead, I sent it along with a couple of other blades.
It came back better than when it was new. Some things are best left
to the pro.
I bought the HF unit and am reasonably happy with it. I sharpen my
hand saws, my chisels, my hand plane blades and found that this was
not much different. Like most sharpening, you don't need to take off
much steel to get a good cutting edge. I would hesitate to sharpen my
most expensive blades myself but I have a few blades sitting around
that I use for suspect wood that might have nailes etc. I also like
the idea that I can tinker with the shape of the teeth to optimize
them for certain cuts. I recommend getting a book on sharpening such
as Leonard Lees book. On the other hand, if I were doing production
work and focused on the bottom line, I would buy new blades or use a
professional sharpening service. Since I am a recreational
woodworker, I find it fun to tinker with the blades.
Just got my blades back from Forrest. What a difference - they're like new.
Did some test cuts and I'm very satisfied. Took them ~ 1 week to process
them. They call to get permission to replace tips as needed. Have them do
test cuts and tip replacements. I believe you'll be pleased.
Not a troll - just a satisfied customer.
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