Depends on condition. Some of these were pretty darned good old machines.
Problem is the newer ones are getting bigger and bigger so smaller capacity
is not all that desirable.
I would think a good one, that hasn't been run to death, would be worth at
least $100. Any one else think its is worth more?
By the way, are knives available and at what price - or do you have to go to
aftermarket? Ryobi hasn't done a very good job of supporting some of their
customers in this respect and the aftermarket knives for the 12-5/16
machines are HIGH!
Sounds about right. BTW, mine still runs great, but I'd probably
qualify as a "light" user. If I've run more than a couple of thousand
board feet through it (multiple passes, of course), I'd be surprised.
Might even be more like one thousand.
I haven't replaced mine yet, but I did replace a set of 6" jointer
knives a while back and they were pretty much a standard commodity.
IIRC, 10" blades were usually listed along with the 6".
Ya know that the AP10 was the first (late 80's?) lunch
box/porty planer, don't you? Back in the day there wasn't
much to be chosen from when the hobbyist wooddorker wanted
to make wood smooth and parallel both sides. In fact
finding a planer in anyone's basement/garage shoppe was way
As for original cost, it was about $350-$400 depending on
I'll leave it to you to determine fair and reasonable.
Portable planers have come so far in the last twenty years I am not sure I
would want one of the early ones. Snipe is an especially noticeable problem
with these light duty machines. Several have gone to 4 post design and locks
on each post to eliminate snipe. There are other improvements worth
studying. I owned a Delta about 10 years ago and it sniped no matter what I
I don't know about the AP10 but I have owned the 12-5/16" since mid to late
90's and, other than inattention with long stock, snipe has not been a
problem. I went through a little knife-price crisis a couple of months ago
and then found out that a Delta knife works.
For a person wanting to smooth stock at a budget price $100 or so should be
a bargain. I tried to sell an old 70's vintage Craftsman table saw this
summer for a long time. The guy who eventually bought it was a trim/finish
carpenter. His main criteria was that it work well, and it was light enough
that he could singlehandedly tip it up into an upside-down position in the
bed of his pickup. We loaded it right beside on old AP-12.
Yes, that is a problem. My AP10 snipes 2" on each end. I can minimize
it (<=.01) with careful handling, but not eliminate it.
I haven't tried the bit of butting consecutive boards end to end or
putting longer narrow sacrificial boards on each side. Others have said
those techniques work. I just plane a board at least 4" longer than I
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