I'd like to say a big thanks to everyone that responded to my question.
But I have one more question. Is a plunger base better than a fixed
base, or visa versa, or does it really matter?
There's two models from Hitachi ( I don't recall the model numbers)
one is $59 and then the other comes with a fixed and plunger base for
$102. I'd like to save forty dollars, but with two bases it seems like I
might have more options to work with.
Also in regards to buying all the other toys that go with a
router,table, templates, etc., yea, those are in the future also.
It depends where and how you think you'd be using it. But, consider that a
plunge router for the much greater part will do everything that a fixed base
router can do, but the reverse is not always true.
Some notes on the whole megillah at the : http://patwarner.com/selecting_router.html
On Jun 25, 8:47 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I use a Bosch plunge and large PC in my table. I love my mid 80's
Craftsman router with a light to better see my work. I dont know if
any existing routers have lights or how old one would have to be to
have a light.
The kit with two bases is what I recommended. It is the WAY
to get started. You can't beat that price in my opinion.
Buying the router(s) will be the cheapest part of the entire
You are going to need a few "extra" things to go along with
(6) template guides
(8) "How to" books
You see a trend here ???
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 22:47:11 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
Not better, different. Each is used for different operations.
A plunge base is necessary for well... plunging! You can still do
stopped slots if on end of the slot is open, but if you need to stop
at both ends, you'll need to plunge.
Straight bases usually have lower center of gravities and easier to
dial in adjustment mechanisms, making them the first choice when no
plunge is needed.
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
On Jun 25, 2:24 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I have a porter cable 690 that you can find on sale on reconditioned
for around $100-125
This a great router.
Now be prepared to shell out some bucks for all the different router
bits you will need. If you can but carbide tiped bits.
If you cant afford them be prepared to take very light cuts or you
will burn up the bits.
Have fun and be careful , routers can be dangerous.... also very
nosiy.. Are you going to get a router table also?
go to www.woodcraft.com and sign up for a free catalog and their
emails. At least once a year they sell router bits for $5 each.
Probably not bits that Marks or Warner would use but they work.
www.holbren.com also has low cost bits.
On Wed, 25 Jun 2008 04:41:19 -0700 (PDT), randyswoodshoop
It appears Amazon has new Porter-Cable 690's for $115 plus shipping
(if you can wait a couple of weeks, shipping is free).
(Amazon.com product link shortened)14417181&sr=1-11
But here's a 2-1/4 HP Hitachi kit with fixed base and plunger in your
price range, this looks like a fantastic deal:
I think we are looking at two different routers:
a better deal would be this one:
Following up on Randy's mentioning of a table, I'll offer some of my
I use a router a middling amount; not near as much as some of the guys
who regularly post here, but my routers are well-used tools in my shop.
One is used freehand and the other is more or less impermanently mounted
in the table. Before I got my second router, the table mounted machine
came out occasionally for freehand work.
I found that it was rare that I unmounted the router from the table,
however. Most of the cuts I wanted to make could be done easily on the
table. And now, my handheld machine isn't used much. Yes, you can use
jigs attached to the edge guides that come with the routers, and some
guys use them all the time. But I really appreciate the hassle free
workings of the table I have.
A table needn't be much more than a 3/4" chunk of plywood, a straight
edge and a couple of clamps for proof-of-concept. It's worth the time
and trouble to see how much easier the router is to use with one.
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