I'm building a big new router table and would like to get an insert
that is flat (no crown), but also one that won't sag or easily
deflect. I'm going to be hanging a pretty big router under it
permanently (Milwaukee 5625 3.25hp) so I'm guessing that aluminum is
the way to go. Any suggestions? I've seen several different plates,
but I've also seen a couple of router "lifts" too, that look pretty
slick - and pretty expensive. Given that I can raise and lower the
Milwaukee with a wrench, from above the table, why would I need
(want?) a lift? What additional functionality does it offer me?
I should add Mic6 is an extremely high tolerance tool/jig plate. You
want flat You got flat. This is the route I went with my router
table. I even took a little bit to file radiused corners. Looks and
I did a bit of googling, not being familiar with Mic6. That's
definitely a nice material, and I can see myself making table saw
sleds with it someday. (Right after I figure out the complexities of
clamping cauls, right Morris?!)
I'm now at the stage where I'm seriously thinking about a router
lift. The offering from Bench Dog gets really good reviews, and I
like that it's so heavily constructed. A good router table can be
such a valuable tool that I really don't want to sell it
I have had an old large Bosch plunge and the big Triton hanging for years
non stop from the, about 1/2" thick, phenolic plates. In particular the
Bench Dog brand. No sag.
Me too, but I bought laminated phenolic (almost looks like micarta) as
an off cut from a guy for $25. It was enough to make 2 bases for my
The only downside is no quick insert changeout.
I have the Rousseau 3508 phenolic router plate and lately have a big
with it. I installed the plate in my 1 1/2 MDF w/laminate router top
5 years ago. and it worked well until recently when I noticed that the
on the plate was rising and preventing my wood from sliding easily.
company acknowledges a 1/32 crown built into the plate. I contacted
Rousseau Company and at their request sent them pictures of the
Here is their response:
"I'm sorry but your pictures didn't help me much. Below is a sketch
way our specification is measured. (sketch not attached or sent)
Pinching a straight
edge to one end of the plate gives a specification that is hard to
control therefore we measure
the warp on a flat surface against a straight edge as shown.
the top of the straight edge is handier than trying to measure to the
The measurement should be made between the insert ring hole and the
edge of the plate. Measure the height of the plate in the center and
about 3/8" in from the two other edges. We allow a maximum of 1/32"
and a minimum of .010" warp measured this way. We measure this with
a dial indicator but a dial caliper works well also. Please let me
what your plate measures this way.
I'd also like some detail on what kind of problem this warp is
From my experience I've never seen a problem caused by this warp
that couldn't be easily solved by changing the setup slightly. I
this warp as a good thing not a bad thing because it helps keep the
distance from the plate to the top of the cutter constant where the
wood touches the base plate in the same place as the cutting takes
Measuring across my plate plate resulted in
a 1/32 drop measurement from center to rear and a 3/32" drop center
to front. Does anyone understand the part about the warp as being a
good thing ... keeping the distance constant? I don't understand this
reasoning. However, as I told the Rousseau engineer I got my money's
worth out of this $40 plate and am square with them. Am thinking
about purchasing a Woodpecker metal plate 3/8" thick that is
advertised as being flat. BYW my router is a PC690. Anyone have
long term luck with the Woodpecker plate?
Jay, I have been looking at this for a while. so far scared to jump in. It
looks slick.If you need quick change from table to handheld it is the best
looking thing out there. the small diameter should reduce warp. If I try it
I will post results.
Good Luck Lyndell
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