I'll be moving to a new home soon, with a much bigger shop. The
previous owners used it as a gameroom, and the walls are painted a
sage green color. I'm planning to repaint before moving in. Is there
a "best" color for the walls of a woodshop?
On Dec 27, 6:39 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Gawd, those Wreckers can be mean, eh?
Bright White eggshell.
You'll need all the light you can get if you want to do some serious
sanding and finishing.
Jeeeez, you guys... why so mean??.... now I have to clean my keyboard
Gloss will give you a headache.
You have two (2) chances of ever washing those walls, slim and none.
Stick to light shade flat or at most, semi-gloss.
Off white(AKA: Egg shell) or light green come to mind for walls.
Off white for ceiling.
Totally agree about not using glossy finish. You want
light, not glare. While a matt finish gives the softest
ambient light it dusts up quickly and isn't as easy to
blow off with compressed air as semi-gloss.
Don't go with white white - but rather an off white
- say Navajo White or Autum Wheat. Much easier
on the eye yet bounces back plenty of light without
Color can be a tricky thing - the color given off
by your lighting, the floor, walls and ceiling. It's
hard to see the actual color of things you're
finishing under indoor light. Add walls that
have much color in them at all and the piece
that looks great in the shop looks weird in the
And while on paint and colors - if you have
a concrete floor - paint it with epoxy paint
with a little fine sand for traction - epoxy
paint makes for a lot of slipping and sliding
otherwise. If you can find it in tan or beige
you'll find that preferable to gray. Stuff
that falls on the floor is easier to find on
tan or beige.
ramble mode off
For my model workshop, I went with masking tape yellow (close to it) on
the walls and a grey on the floor. The cieling's white, with a few drops
of the wall yellow mixed in. My idea was to provide a uniform color that
I wasn't likely to encounter in my tools, and reflect the natural light
from outside without blinding me.
Marching to the beat of a different drum is great... unless you're in
something light but not too bright. Pure white is too "glaring" for my
taste- I like off white better. Of course, if you are going to be doing a
lot of splattering type stuff (like behind the lathe), either a drop cloth
or a less obviously stained color might be better.
I have to admit that the walls of my shop are raw chipboard - random shades
of woody brown. The cieling is unfinished drywall, and the floor is advantec
(waterproof structural plywood). I never bothered to paint anything. Of
course, I also have a window roughly every 10' on three sides (shop is
40x55"), so I get lots of natural light.
I do all of my detail work in the center of the shop, where I can use the
antural light, plus the overheads if needed, and spot lighting when I need
In my opini0on the critical factors are light and maintenability, and lets
face it, once the shop is set up, the last thing that ever gets done is
On Thu, 27 Dec 2007 15:39:00 -0800 (PST), email@example.com wrote:
Count me in the camp of the eggshell / off white camp. My shop is
painted a satin off white which reflects the light well.
The other advantage is that the sawdust matches the wall color closely
enough that it eliminates the need to wash the walls ;0)
You should prefer a gloss or semigloss paint on the walls, because
they will scrape a hunk of your latest project, and you don't want
them to leave a mark. Flat paint is less strong, will rub off
on the plywood or cherry some day while you're stacking or hauling.
If there's any unpainted wood or concrete, definitely put a coat on
(urethane or epoxy paint for concrete) because the porous building
material can harbor moisture and let it loose at inopportune times
and rust things. Paint won't stop moisture, but it will slow it
enough to give ventilation a chance.
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