Building new shop 30x40 with concrete floor. I want to put several
electrical recepticles in the floor that are flush with the concrete for my
table saw and other tools. Does anyone have experience with this - pro or
con. I hate having cords hanging or lying around.
If they're flush, you stand the chance of rolling a tool over them etc.
The shops I've seen have a pedestal the size of a work box that the outlets
go into from the side.
floor --+ | | <-- outlets here
V | |
Only comment that I would make is that one of the best features of my shop
is the ability to easily reconfigure the workspace and the assembly
locations to fit the types of projects I'm working on right now. End
tables, chairs, wall clocks, kitchen cabinets, headboards for king-sized
beds - all seem to work better with different shop layouts.
I think that the only feature I haven't moved in the last year is the wood
rack, and that's because it's really full.
Allow yourself the flexibility to have a better idea down the road
somewhere. Somebody better qualified than I will offer an opinion about
flush mounting electrics in the floor.
There are a number of manufactures that make recessed steel floor mounted boxes
for electrical outlets. In the shop I'd opt for one that has a hinged steel
lid that closes flush with the floor when not in use. I've included a link to
one supplier so you can get some idea of what's available.
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Sun, Jul 11, 2004, 10:10pm firstname.lastname@example.org (Nova)
<snip> In the shop I'd opt for one that has a hinged steel lid that
closes flush with the floor when not in use. <snip>
Yeah, I've seen that type. If nothing else, they should keep
sawdust out of the sockets.
Gotta go with Patriarch tho, I'd be moving stuff. If I had a
choice, I'd have everything in the ceiling.
Making a success of the job at hand is the best step toward the kind you
- Bernard M. Baruch
More likely, your boss gets a raise and/or promotion, from getting
credit for your work.
Don't forget to check your local zoning codes to be sure you can use what
you are looking for. It would be bad to hear the inspector say, "Hey, you
can't do that here." (wait... here's the bad part) "You have to tear that
As for water, others here would likely know more, but how about a GFCI
circuit breaker for all of your floor mounted outlets and then installing
weather resistant gasketed outlets...As the other post mentioned, the outlet
would probably not be truly flush, and that would help. If you drop a can
o'thinnner, I dunno... pray!
I am soon going to be pouring a slab for a shop as well. I am considering
installing a dust collection duct in the floor for the TS and Jointer, et
al. I may put the whole mess in a channel through the center of the slab.
I am on the fence about radiant heat, tho... kinda want to do it....
Anyway, my 2c..
I assume there is NO possibility that you might EVER want to hose out the
shop for any reason? I would prefer my outlets to be higher to give me the
flexibility to do that should I decide to. Maybe not you, but the next
person that buys it from you?
The floor outlets that are approved for residential use have cast iron round
boxes that are about 3/8" thick - seriously heavy-duty. The trims are very
robust and the covers that I've seen are machined brass. If the rough box
is installed flush with the surrounding (sub)floor, the trim and cover rise
up 3/8" - 1/2" (not truly flush).
Maybe the ticket would be to bring 110v, 220v and DC to 12"x12" voids in the
'crete (6'x6' grid?) that are covered with a steel plate?
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