Router Plane

| I saw one in "the handplane book" that looked like something I | could make myself...I found the cutters at highland hardware and | with a little time I was able to make serviceable router | plane....you can see it

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_router_plane.htm

Nice job! I like the eye bolt idea.

-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA

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Reply to
Morris Dovey
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That's interesting how you used an eye-bolt to hold the cutter. Since these things are so easy to make, I may have to make another router plane with a similar holding system and a larger/wider pre-made cutter.

Thanks for the tip.

Reply to
Michael Faurot

I wound up using an allen wrench with a thumb screw to hold my cutter in place. Using an allen wrench solved the problem of how to get a bend in the metal without mucking it up (I'm not a metal worker). To get an edge on it I was able to shape the bulk of it with an angle grinder, then a bit with a hand file and then some honing with 800G sand paper.

Reply to
Michael Faurot

"Michael Faurot" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@usenet.news:

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> shop_ made_router_plane.htm">here< /a>

The cutters are the same as the Stanley....it was the the easiest plane I made so far it only took an afternoon to do....

If you can I would like to see more of your allen wrench/thumbscrew setup....

Regards

DCH

Reply to
DCH

Sure. I'm not much of a photographer, but you can see some more shots of the cutter here:

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things about this, that may not be visible in the pictures:

o) I ground off the sides of the bottom of the cutter to change it from a hexagonal shape to more of a square/rectangle. Thus making it possible to get right up next to the walls of a dado.

o) I also ground the very bottom of the cutter to form a sort of bevel on the bottom. I removed more material towards the bend than at the front. By doing this it helps the cutting edge connect with the wood, instead of riding on the bottom.

o) To further improve the angle of attack of the cutting edge, I also had to bend it a bit so as to increase the angle from 90 degrees to a bit more like 95-100 degrees.

o) For the thumb screw, with machine threads, to work, an insert was used. The insert has threads on its outside, and once screwed into the wood, is very solid. I got these at Home Depot.

I wound up using this router plane a lot yesterday to make a base for a sharpening stone. In particular to remove the material where the stone will sit in the wood. After getting the initial area defined with chisels, the router plane was used to smooth and even out the bottom. It took awhile to get the hang of how to use it, but once I had that figured out, along with a bit of fine tuning on the angle of attack for the cutter, it worked very well. It also provides a good workout for your forearms and biceps. :)

Reply to
Michael Faurot

Nice.

Next time you make one, make the front of the blade's hole a 60* notch. Then you can use smaller Allen blades for narrower cuts.

Does the thumbscrew go into a Tee nut or a mortised hex nut?

If you blued the blade during grinding, it's a snap to re-harden.

Reply to
Australopithecus scobis

Thanks!

It's a threaded insert. I don't have a picture of the one I used, but it's very similar to the one at this URL[1]. I found mine at Home Depot in the nuts/bolts/screws hardware aisle.

[1]:
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Reply to
Michael Faurot

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