Rip Fence Alignment

What is the proper way to align the rip fence. I have a General with a 12" blade and a General ripping fence. In particular I am interested in how much off-parellel to the blade should it be? I am assuming it is not expected to be perfectly parallel but a little closer at the front of the blade than the back.
Any assistance is appreciated.
With thanks,
Glen Duff
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What is the proper way to align the rip fence. I have a General with a 12" blade and a General ripping fence. In particular I am interested in how much off-parellel to the blade should it be? I am assuming it is not expected to be perfectly parallel but a little closer at the front of the blade than the back.
Any assistance is appreciated.
With thanks,
Glen Duff
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If anything, yes, but you are straying into religious territory. Some will say dead parallel others will suggest a little relief.
Personally I go for as parallel as I can make it.
-Steve
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Some like it one way, some another. If you're going to fudge, obviously it's best to fudge at the back. No more than 1/64, though I prefer dead parallel.
Charlie Self "One of the common denominators I have found is that expectations rise above that which is expected." George W. Bush
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Glen wrote:>What is the proper way to align the rip fence. I have a General with a

Hi, Glen. Do a check on the flatness and squareness of the fence using a straightedge and a good square. When those measurements are good, you can use a combination square with the body laid in the miter slot and feeler gauges to measure the parallelism to the miter slot. This assumes you've already aligned the blade to the slot, of course. Most folks here seem to go for as dead-nuts on as they can get it, and some will opt for a couple/few thou away at the back of the blade. Have fun! Tom Work at your leisure!
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Insure that one of your miter slots is absolutely parallel to your blade. Then your fence should be adjusted to be absolutely parallel the same miter slot. I do no subscribe to having the blade farther from the back of the blade than the front. After making each adjustment test cut a few pieces of wood.
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miter
The miter slot is of course the deciding factor _if_ your blade is correctly aligned.
A blade that is not parallell to the miter slot will never give a satisfactory cut in thick or wide wood.
Two factors can throw off the cutting angle of a weel aligned blade: One sided damage to the teeth of the blade. Get new. (made when scraping resin off the blade.) Resin layer inside the blade. Scrape carefully!
Bjarte
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If I may add the 2 cents of a relative newbe. Get a dial indicator. After aligning my TS with the method indicated in the manual I used a dial gauge and found that is was over 30 thousands off. After using an indicator I have it within 3 thou. Makes a lot of difference in the quality of the cut.
Cheers HM
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One of these should help a LOT:
http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsjrlite.htm
Herman Munster wrote:

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Pat Barber wrote:

This month's issue of Wood has a short essay on aligning a saw. For aligning the blade to the miter slot they suggest a stick clamped to the miter gage and a screw on the blade end of the stick. They state that this is good enough and the click from the tooth contacting the screw is all you need.
Then they go to align the fence to the slot with,
a dial indicator.
UA100, who is wishing that maybe Wood would put a brown wrapper on the magazine when they ship it, at least till the subscription runs out...
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Prolly still stinging from their TiteBond III 'speriment, they've decided to cover all the bases.
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patrick conroy wrote:

It's way past that. They show using the stock guide (sloppy fit which will throw off any alignment) with no mention of fit (it must be) in the first part and for the second part they use a Starrett dial indicator.
UA100
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patrick conroy wrote:

Did you miss the part where they say to set the miter guage at 90 degrees? Remember that long argument here a while back. John
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wrote:

Should the miter gauge be grounded if it's plastic?
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John wrote:

Oh no, I saw it. I 'bout wore a hole in my hat from scratching and wondering why anyone would think it would make a difference. Makes me wonder if Wood ought maybe be writing about something other than, well ,wood.

Either my short term or long term memory isn't so good. Can you refresh?
UA100
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<snippage>

I think I wasted the cash on that magazine about twice. But then, I haven't been a woodworker long enough to remember when they might have been good.
Patriarch
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Patriarch wrote:

Wood has stayed pretty consistent since it's beginning and I really couldn't say they ever had a Golden Age. Back in the beginning they did have Roy Underhill doing a monthly contribution which is kinda cool when thumbing the back issues but for the most part they have clinkers just like all the rest of the magazines.
Now having said that, take a magazine like American Woodworker. Back "in the day" they had David Sloan, Ellis Walentine, Andy Rae and others and that was one of the finest damn magazines you could waste some money on every month. Since Reader's Digest took over it's pretty much cork screwed itself into the ground/become something almost equivalent to Woodworking For Women (arguably the worst magazine on the stand as it tries to give the impression of legitimacy but really is something so dumbed down I think NOW ought to file a class action suit against it and the publisher).
Popular Woodworking has stayed consistent but usually shows improvement from month to month and year to year.
Work Bench (August Home) has probably shown the most improvement and gone from something I wouldn't even thumb through for free to "worth at least going to the LEEBRARY every month to read/I might even be tempted to buy a subscription" to.
Fine Woodworking, I think, is somewhat the Sears of woodworking magazine and is banking more on it's reputation than it should be, i.e., it ain't what it once was/could really use some improvement, Your Mileage May Vary.
I can't figure out what it is I don't like about Woodwork. It's well written. It's well crafted as a magazine. It has some great gallery shots and articles but I just can't seem to get on board. Again, Your Mileage May Vary.
UA100, who is thinking that with a full set of Fine Woodworkings (from Issue 1 to now) and a full set of Wood and with volumes of a lot of other magazines on the shelf is thinking "maybe it's all been said and done and now we're truly into the re-hashing period, and maybe should save some money and let some subscriptions lapse...
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Unisaw A100 wrote:

I am not going to try and recall who the particpants were. Basically there was one person arguing that the 90 degree setting was required to make the alignment and not listening to replies that it did not matter as long as the setting remained fixed. John
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John wrote:

That was my fault, sorry to say. I was trying to figger out how to line up my shiny new Crapsman, and it descended into that. About a year ago I reckon.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < snipped-for-privacy@users.sourceforge.net>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
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ROFL!
--
"The thing about saying the wrong words is that A, I don't notice it, and B,
sometimes orange water gibbon bucket and plastic." -- Mr. Burrows
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