I have the right tilt one too. I'm quite happy with it.
1) get a scraper of some sort (I used a razor) to do a first pass at
removing the cosmolene. It will save you time and you will use less solvent.
2) Don't forget to buy a plug/cord for it. Mine is a 220 volt one. The saw
does not come with a plug and the cord is rather short. I removed the
factory cord, put on a short (~2 foot long) cord and twist-lock connector
and then put together a nice solid extension cord. This way it is easy to
move the saw around without a cord dragging.
3) Get a mobile base too and put it on the base before you attach the cast
Other than that, the setup was smooth.
DO NOT FALL FOR VOTE PARING!
READ THIS WEB PAGE:
You will clearly see:
From News Radio 1370: http://www.wspd.com/bobf2.html
1. Set up a few bogus email accounts on Yahoo or Hotmail. Make up
names if you'd like.
2. Go to www.VotePair.org .
3. Select a swing state such as Florida or Pennsylvania where Nader is
on the ballot.
4. Select "Nader" as your first choice for President.
5. Enter your name and email address so they can pair you with a Kerry
supporter in a "safe state."
7. Confirm your agreement to vote for Kerry in your swing state via
the email they send to your account while he agrees to vote for Nader
in his safe state.
8. Print your confirmation email.
9. Take your printed email into your bathroom and use it as a
substitute for your Charmin.
10. Go to your precinct on November 2nd and vote for George W. Bush.
11. Feel proud that you helped stop voter fraud in the United States
There are other sites as well where people are admitting to signing up
with multiple user accounts. Please don't "trade" your vote because
you put your trust in a random online stranger. You wouldn't give your
absentee ballot to a stranger you just met on a bus, and trust them to
fill it in and mail it for you. Don't give your vote away to a
stranger on the internet.
I've had my 1023SL about a year now and it works great. The rip capacity is
only 26" in the standard saw and since it's left tilt and there is no reason
to have your fence on the left side of the blade, I shifted the rails to the
right about 9". Now I have a better rip capacity and had enough room to put
a router table in the extra area. No regrets at all and if you would like a
couple of pictures, I would be happy to send them.
There is at least one good reason for having the ability to put a rip fence
on either side of the blade. This is making a piece with angled sides, whose
cross section is a parallogram. If you can't move your rip fence to the
opposite side of the blade you end up with the "pointy side" of the
parallogram tending to sneak into the gap between the bottom of the rip
fence and the table.
I have the G1023SL and I love it. Be prepared though - mine arrived
two days after ordering it...
The saw is solid, has plenty of power, and I really like the left
tilting feature. I suggest you order some zero clearance inserts from
Grizzly because most of the third party inserts are made for right
tilting. One drawback of the left tilting is that thicker blades move
the cutting edge toward the right so your right side scale will be off
by the additional thickness of the blade. This doesn't bother me
since the only thick blade I use are dado blades and I don't align
these cuts with the fence rule.
The advantage is that the blade tilts away from the fence for angled
cuts so short pieces won't jam between the blade and the fence.
Thanks for responding. Good news on the shipping.
I've had a left tilt Craftsman for years so I'm aware of the scale
difference. And I'lll probably continue to make my own inserts.
Looks like I've made a right choice :)
I have owned the right-tilt 1023S for about 2-1/2 years and it is a great
machine. I saw your second post and you might want to think about:
1) getting it unloaded. Mine arrived in Wichita, KS about 36 hours after my
internet order. I had it held at the trucker's dock because most won't
unload. They helped get it onto my pickup and I had help meet me later that
day at home. If you have the trucker bring it out, make sure he has a lift
gate on his truck.
2) Don't assemble anything untill it is pretty close to its final resting
place and I strongly recommend a mobile base.
3) Once you get it on the floor, leave it on the shipping pallet because it
can help you mount it on the mobile base (again, strongly advised). I tied
the base to the pallet and my wife and I could fairly easily rock it onto
the base, from the pallet. Then assemble table, fence rails, etc.
4) Order the motor cover if it is still an option.
5) Just enjoy setting it up. I did have to shim one of the table extensions
using the tape method described in the book. The other side was fine.
6) Stick with the basic SL, not the SLX. The "precision" Shop Fox fence
provided on the X versions is smooth but contains moving parts and has had
some issues in recent magazine reviews.
Yer gonna love it.
Let me start by saying that I don't own one of these (although I wish
I did!). I have a JET contractor's saw with a Shop Fox "original"
fence. I believe that is the fence that RonB is trying to steer you
away from. (Calling one fence "Original" and the other "Classic"
always struck me as a bonehead move. Apparently Grizzly has fixed that
problem by calling one the "Shop Fox Fence" and the other the "Shop
Fox Classic Fence." Much better. At any rate, the fence I'm talking
about is teh one Grizzly provides on their Z series cabinet saws, like
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2004/018.cfm?) I like this fence a lot.
It is easy to adjust, and once adjusted, seems to stay that way. It is
very easy to move into position (or move out of the way), and very
easy to lock down once you've got it where you want it. Once locked
down, it is *very* solid. Yes, there are internal parts, and the
mechanism is a bit complicated, but not unduly so. And it is this
mechanism that lets the fence lock down hard in front and back, but
still allows the fence to glide out to the far end of the 50" rails
with a touch.
If you can, get your hands on a saw with this fence and try it out
before you order your saw. Doesn't Grizzly have a referral service
where they put you in touch with somebody owning the tool in your
Good input and I am glad you are having good luck with the precision fence.
You made a good point. If you call Grizzly's customer line they will put
you in touch with two people in your area that have made similar purchases
(they volunteer to do this). I did it and their input did sway me. It
might be an opportunity to get to play with both fences without driving to
Washington or Missourri.
I have the 1023S right tilt. I can't comment on your exact model. But,
I am very happy with mine. The entire order process from Amazon
through delivery went smoothly. Very quick delivery. The Shop Fox
Fence box was mangled but there was no damage.
The only downside was that I had to order the motor cover separately.
It seems like they should have just included it and jacked up the
price by $29.00. This was not a showstopper.
The 3hp motor is whisper quiet and very smooth. I was planning on
using link belts but have found no need so far. The fence is awesome.
I added the Tolpin Ultimate fence on top. It makes it very heavy but
is very useful. The miter gauge is very heavy duty as are the
The fact that this saw uses a 20amp 240v breaker was one of my
debating points. I'm really glad I decided to bite the bullet and get
I also have had a 1023S for about one year and love it. I have used it to
built some kitchen cabinets and fabricate some solid surface countertops and
would highly recommend the extension table and longer fence rails (to the
right of the blade). With a little assistance, it is relatively easy to
work with 4' x 8' sheets of 3/4" plywood and 10' sheets of 1/2" solid
surface. The saw appears to make precise cuts without much effort providing
one has a good blade and I have had good luck with full-kerf blades. It is
very stable, smooth and quiet too. After owning a cabinet saw, it would be
difficult to revert back to a lightweight contractor's saw.
In my case, the trucking company delivered the item to the door in a vehicle
with a lift and all of that was included in Grizzly's standard shipping fee.
I would also agree with the other owner who suggested the mobile base. It
is a very useful option especially in a workshop that does not have
The only minor complaint would be that dust collection is not perfect.
While my 2 hp DC works well with most dust above the 4" port, there is
always a 2" layer of residual dust that collects at the bottom of the
cabinet. Last of all would be to suggest the use of zero clearance inserts.
Cuts seem to be much cleaner, but I am not sure that this may negatively
affect the DC operation.
Good luck on your possible purchase.
I've had my 1023 SL for a few months now. I love it. It's a solid machine
that I will be using for many years. I think you will be happy with it.
I'd like to offer some downsides for purposes of perspective, but I have
found none worth mentioning.
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