Sure, if you're just gonna slice some 2x4s or do other kinds of carpentry, on occassion, get a cheapie.
If you're gonna try to do ww'g, spend the extra for a decent saw. There're adjustments (squaring up the blade to the base, for example) on a good saw not found on the cheap ones that are important. Other features include a better, heavier base plate. Better bearings, prolly. Don't need to go all the way to the Skil wormdrive saw (which is heavy), but for just over $100, you can get something pretty dang good.
I often use the circular saw to cut plywood sheets to more manageable sizes, since I have a hard time handling a full sheet on the table saw. Don't want an out of square, etc. cut here to add to aggravations.
Depends what you're gonna be using it for and how often. But, if you can afford it, I'd reccommend the splurge for a better quality saw.
I don't understand how Tim's comment about kickback applies to a hand held circular saw. In all of them that I have used, the part of the blade that does the cutting is moving away from the operator. The sawdust chute is a different issue. You do want to make sure that this is pointed away from the user.
Back to the original question - I am right handed and prefer left mounted blades. This gives me better visibility of the cut. With a right mounted blade, I feel that I have to lean over to see what is happening. Also, the left mount blade gives better support for the saw in the way I frequently use one, which is with the work piece supported on saw horses or a work table and the smaller cutoff portion sticking out to the left where I can hold it with my left hand. That way, the saw base rides on the portion that is supproted.
I have never had that happen, but see how it is possible.
However, you deleted the part that I was responding to where the previous poster talked about Cut-offs flying past your head. That is what I was responding to. If a cut-off does go flying, it is much more likely to go away from you.
For me, the motor is usually in the way unless I lean way over the top of the saw or get way off to the side. But with a left-hand blade, I can see most of the saw line and where the saw is currently.
Different strokes - the point is to understand your own patterns of work and pick tools that fit your style.
I knew a guy that this happened to. He was a contractor & worked with the guard pinned because it saved time. (Bad Idea.) A pinch, a flip, and .... Years later he still didn't have much grip in that hand.
a couple of years ago I think it was someone posted here about a skilsaw kickback death. the jobsite was rural and kind of far from emergency services. the saw got the guy in the big artery in the groin. he didn't have a chance.
congrats to your new hobby. As for the circular saw, what will be the applications of the saw and how much are you willing to spend? I've read many different comments on circular saws during the last year and can say that there are probably many good saws available. Anyway, there are two exeptional brands in my opinion: Festool and Mafell. If your budget is limited and you don't want to use the circular for finish work you might be better of with one of the normal circular saws. You can even tune them if you need more accuracy.
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if you want precision right from the start I'd recommend to check out the Mafell and the Festool saws.
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(site seems to be down at the moment)
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for the Mafell, I'd look at the KST 55 and the KSP 40 Flexistem.
Personally, I use a Festool plunge saw and really like it. I'm in the process of writing a review and here's the beginning:
1) What is so special about this saw?
- The ATF 55 is a plunge saw, not a simple circular saw. The advantages of this type of saw are that you can plunge into the middle of wood (for example for glass parts of doors) and more safety because of the better protected blade.
- Festool offers a unique guide rail system which can also be used for the Festool jigsaw and the Festool router. These guide rails work deadly accurate and ensure precision and high-quality cuts. Festool offers a wide range of accessories for the rails. The most important ones are available as a package (in a systainer).
- Extremely high quality blade which allows cuts without tear out even in melamine.
- Almost dust-less operation if hooked up to a vac (I recommend the Festool CT models).
2) Why should someone want such a saw?
- Well, my shop is pretty small and I don't have the space for a table saw. But, of course, I want as much accuracy as possible, so the ATF is the way to go because it ensures precise high-quality cuts if used with the guide rails.
- Even if you have a large table saw, sheets are always a pain to handle. And cutting the sheets to size with a circular saw and then make precise cuts with the table saw is a waste of time and if you are a professional a waste of money, too.
- Have to trim a door on a jobsite? - Take out the ATF, a guide rail and the job is done within a few minutes. Hardly any dust, hardly any clean up and a smiling customer.
3) Typical Festool features:
- Systainers - the most useful stackable case for tools and accessories
- 3 year warranty
- 30 days money back warranty
- System philosophy: As mentioned above the rails can be used for jigsaw, plunge saw and router. And there's also a special worktable, which uses the rails. Suction hose fits the dust port on all Festool's without adapter.
You might also like to check out the following reviews and comments:
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I have questions regarding the Festool line, I email Bob Marino at snipped-for-privacy@aol.com Bob is hobby woodworker and Festool ISA. Due to the fact that he uses the tools himself he has an incredible knowledge. Many folks on the net buy from him and are nothing but happy with his service.
I can assure you that I don't work for Festool or revieve any money from them. I'm a satisfied customer and wanted to pass this on.
Great feedback thus far...very helpful! Allow me to elaborate a bit--and add a couple more questions.
I truly AM a novice WW'er, and early on will be using the circ. saw in place of a table saw (which I hope to purchase in the next year or so), mostly for low-level cutting. I don't foresee heavy-duty needs at this point.
Reading thru the responses has created some additional questions--primarily due to my inexperience. Explanation (keep it simple) is appreciated.
--What is a "worm drive", and how will I know one when I see one-and why would I need this?
--Bearings? Bushings? Whats their role--and how do they determine the saws quality? And how will I spot the better ones?
--Terms like "end play" and "runout" were mentioned (bad things). What are these?
--What types of blades are best for different applications? I assume the more teeth, the smoother the cut...is this true?
Finally, an update: Thru some "bonus points" I earned with my company, I had a choice of various products...including tools. Nothing else was very appealing, so with my "points" I chose the only circular saw listed--a B&D 12amp (no model #), and also a B&D rotary tool that comes with a variety of bits.
I get the impression this is pretty cheap stuff--but will it do? Or should I just immediately post it on eBay, and hope to make enough for a dinner at Olive Garden?
Thanks, & keep the good advice coming, Dave dmchace@Comcast(nospam).com
a worm drive is a mechanical system for changing the direction and speed of a shaft. it involves two very strange looking gears: one looks like a barber pole (the worm) and the other looks more like what you might think a gear should look like. this is the drive system used between the blade and motor of saws like the skil77 and makita hypoid saw.
you won't see the worm drive unless you take the saw apart. ; ^ ) here's what a skil77 looks like (on the outside)
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bearings and bushings support and orient the rotating parts. once again, these are internal parts. for a handheld saw you will want pretty much all ball and roller bearings. avoid saws with bushings.
end play is the looseness of a shaft (like the one holding your saw blade) parallel to its axis. runout is eccentricity perpendicular to the shaft's axis.
sort of. this is a pretty broad field. I'd recommend you go to a real tool store- one that supplies tools to the woodworking trades, not home despot or mall wart and talk to the folks there for a while.
I think I'd keep 'em and use them up. pretty soon your skill level will exceed what those tools can do. when that happens you can either give them away or do something like put an abrasive blade on the saw and use it for cutting metal or concrete. that'll kill it off quick....
meanwhile you'll be getting a little time in trying out a saw.
I suppose a blade brake would help in most circumstances like this.
--snip--
I try to arrange it so I can support the saw on the non-cutoff side, though it does happen that it's inconvenient sometimes to do that. But, a little while ago, you He-Men told me that's what those rippling muscles y'all have were for (to support the saw when you're riding on the cutoff side) .
will suffice. The only reason I have one is because a carpenter friend of mine gave me his old one after cutting through the cord for the third time (now 10" long) and after a first floor fall and a second floor fall (now has a bent shoe and adjustments, and no top handle). It still runs like a mad bull, I use it for demolition, cutting masonry and metal.
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