Gotcha. Even HD and Lowes store it inside here. I'll probably end up buying it at HD. It seems they have Festool pricing, so there isn't much sense in going out of the way.
OK. You're suggesting that I paint as much as possible to do in a day (given space), then hang the next? Repeat...
-OR-'
Paint it all - as many days as needed, then hang?
Either way, I'm worried about the stuff sticking together. I know you said to sticker it but the stuff is like noodles to that's a *lot* of stickers.
I've already bought a set of Gecko gauges.
He also says to caulk the joint. The failed boards are done just like that (except no flashing) but the caulk failed long ago. Hardie recommends against caulk too. With the flashing behind it, is it needed?
The idea of the construction glue, or whatever it was, holding the bottom of the board is a keeper, too. That's another reason I'm replacing mine. The bottoms are loose, particularly near the joints. The boards are cracked around the nails. This way, there's no need for nails below the lap.
It was interesting to note that the "butt" joints weren't butted up against each other. Makes sense, given that the stuff absorbs water. It also points out how smart your spray can idea is, too. Spray paint can be mixed to match any color can paint can. I have no idea what it costs, though.
Well, none of us are getting younger but I think I can still climb a ladder. SWMBO freaked when I threatened to paint the other sides (three stories in some places).
This is a pretty simple installation. It's at most 16' high, and much of it half that. It's one side and no gables.
I'll make a point of taking pictures. Thanks again for all you help (I'm sure I'll be back for more). The least I can do is take a few pictures. ;-) Just gotta find a place for them.
The whole project is too much to paint and sticker. Even with a herd of sa w horses, I don't do that. I just try to anticipate how much I can put up in a day. Paint at the end of the day, let it dry for several hours overni ght, then the batch is ready to go first thing in the morning. Then each d ay of installation you can anticipate how much you will need for the follow ing day and knock off the installation an hour early, pack the installation tools up, paint, clean your rollers, and you are done, ready for the next day.
Switching tasks is a time killer.
Nice. Pretty high tech!
If you have a pretty close joint, planks in contact about half of the expos ed facing after butting, then probably not.
But, welcome to the great debate. As noted earlier, Hardie has flip/floppe d on this more than once. This latest installation pdf
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rdieplank-hz10-us-en.pdf
that is the newest on the "pro" site, is from May 2016. Less than a year o ld. It clearly shows on their little graphic the word "caulking" used in t he install details, the caveat in parenthesis is that you don't use caulkin g on ColorPlus (prefinished) product. The same installation bulletin also details on page 3 what kind of caulk to use, with a warning of application for one brand. A call to Hardie is not that helpful; they advise to caulk a s needed, and now they advise on their installation differently in differen t climate zones.
Note too in that publication, that different from earlier versions that it does NOT recommend a space at the joints for caulking, but uses the chicken shit ambiguity of "install planks in moderate contact at butt joints". Wha t is moderate contact?
Over the years, they have gone from requiring an 1/8" between the joints fo r caulking to as "as needed" policy. They use further weasel language to r elieve themselves of some of the "caulk/no caulk" problem by warning to fol low local building codes and lcally acceptable installation procedures. Th at way if the siding leaks they are covered at least in some instances. If your local ordinance or FHA/VA requires caulking and you don't, then Hardie voids that section of your warranty. If you caulk and it isn't required ( merely suggested) and caulk fails, it is on the installer/you.
Over the years, with no clear guidance and no specification for the caulkin g, People used painter's caulks, silicone caulks, etc., all completely wron g for this application. Also, without adequate specification for the storag e of this material at the yard, we go this stuff wet and it shrank a lot. Compounding that, latex materials don't stick well to wet products so altho ugh it looked good, the caulk didn't stick.
I am back to what I used to do and didn't have any failures. I have had to renail a couple of planks on the first job I did, but that is because I di dn't understand how crucial it was to follow the nailing instructions. Cha nging my pneumatic nailer to a roofing nailer (since I always blind nail), fixed the spalling problem. What I do different now is to add the aluminum strip as flashing with a colored stripe down the middle, and add a small d ollop, say marble size) of glue at the joints. I have a box of stainless n ails that I used on rare occasion on a facing where a wall dips or bulges a nd the planking won't draw up tight.
So at the butts, I put up my metal flashing with the "next nearest color st ripe" on it, put a small dollop of adhesive just OUTSIDE the flashing (far enough away that the glue won't touch the flashing when compressed), put up the siding (factory to factory edge only) until the touch, then nail it. I f it is closed, I don't caulk. If it isn't, I will apply a good quality sol vent based elastomeric caulk.
That isn't a Hardie detail, but an installer detail. Half the size of a Her shey's kiss on each side is all you need, and a tube of PL400 will last for a few days. CHEAP insurance. While all the Hardie moves on the walls aft er installation, the joints are the weak points. And if you spall the back side accidentally, most of the time you don't know, and the damage manifest s itself in the way you are seeing.
Krylon makes a rainbow of colors these days, so remember that IF the flashi ng in your joint is seen, it will be about 1/8" at most. My experience is that joints of well painted material don't open more than that. No need to have specially made paint for a sliver of aluminum that is back in the sha dows with no immediately adjacent color to match with little light to get t o it except morning and evening when the sun is more horizontal. If it is c lose, no one will see it. If it isn't, buy your paint early, cut the flash ing and slather a paintbrush size stripe on the pieces and you have an exac t match.
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