Re: Delta Blade Alignment Procedures - Contractor's saw models 34-444

> Just thought I'd pass this along to those that have been having difficulty

> > in aligning the blade parallel to the miter slot on these particular
> > contractor saws. They may also apply to other Delta series saws as long as
> > they have two tie-bars as part of the undercarriage.
> >
> > I installed a new blade the other night and checked alignment using my TS
> > Aligner Jr. and found that it was off by nearly 5 thousandths (front to
> > rear - using same tooth on blade as ref). Decided to align and while doing
> > so, managed to snap a trunnion bolt !
> >
> > Well, the saw was due for a good cleaning and lube anyway, so I pulled out
> > the whole undercarriage mechanism. It was a fairly simple process actually
> > and not nearly as difficult as I was anticipating. Luckily, the bolt I
> > snapped was left with a few threads exposed and was easily removed. There
> > is no printed spec for these bolts in their literature so I called Delta
> > tech support and finally got connected with a very knowledgeable and helpful
> > individual (Ron as I recall).
> >
> > He said a grade 5 bolt (same size) will do - but add lock washers to each of
> > the four trunnion bolts as long as I have it apart. These will help
> > maintain the alignment. There also is no spec for how tight these bolts
> > should be but "good 'n snug and not over-tightened" is all that's needed he
> > said. The trunnion bolts are not marked with a grade number and using a
> > grade 5 means that I probably will never be able to snap the bolt again, it
> > will most likely strip out the threads in the base before it breaks. So a
> > word of caution - tight enough is one turn before it strips or snaps -
> > wherever that is !
> >
> > Considering that I was using a 6" long 1/2" box wrench and was not leaning
> > on it when it snapped, the original bolts are definitely not grade 5. > >
> > Now for the interesting part. Delta faxed me a two sheet procedure that
> > describes how to do this alignment. It's called "Blade Alignment
> > Instructions for Original Contractors-Type Saws (when the saw has two
> > Tie-Bars)". Pages are marked CS07 and CS07a and are not in the manual. I've
> > included the instructions below but since binaries are not appreciated in
> > this ng, I didn't scan the diagram.
> >
> > Here's the procedure (minus diagram) as faxed to me: (unplug the saw first) > >
> > I've added a note or two to help which are denoted by (My note....). > >
> > .......................................Delta
> > Procedures..................................................... > >
> > Initial Measurement:
> >
> > 1. Raise the sawblade to it's maximum height and mark one tooth, at the
> > front of the blade as a reference.
> > 2. Using a combination square, measure from the left edge of the right-hand
> > miter gauge slot to the sawblade tooth that was marked in step 1 (Note this
> > measurement). Then rotate the blade to the rear and measure from the same
> > marked tooth to the miter slot. (Note this measurement).
> >
> > IF the two measurements are NOT the same, proceed with step 3. > >
> > Note: refer to parts diagram on the following page for part locations. > >
> > (My note...this is the step I never knew had to be done, nor have I ever
> > heard anyone mention it before.)
> >
> > 3. Remove the sawblade. (Remember, it is still at it's maximum height)
> > 4. Place a flat plate (or similar flat object) on top of the two tie-bars.
> > (The size of the plate should be at least 6" by 8", and the flatter the
> > better). Depress one corner of the plate and if it rocks, the tie-bars are
> > not parallel. This must be corrected as it will affect the alignment of the
> > blade.
> >
> > To make the Tie-Bars parallel:
> > 5. Loosen the tie-bar locknuts (2ea. ref #245) located at the rear of the > > saw.
> > 6. Grasp the motor bracket (ref #244) and move it left and/or right. Check
> > the rocking of the flat plate and when it can no longer rock, the tie-bars
> > are parallel...re-tighten the locknuts.
> >
> > Aligning the saw undercarriage:
> > 7. Remove the flat plate and re-install the sawblade.
> > 8. Loosen the front trunnion bolts (2ea. ref #207) and the rear trunnion
> > bolts (2ea. ref #243).
> > 9. Move the entire undercarriage around while measuring as in step 2.
> > 10. When the two measurements are the same, re-tighten the front two
> > trunnion bolts (ref #207).
> > 11. Before tightening the rear trunnion bolts, push forward on the rear
> > trunnion bracket to allow the undercarriage to snugly fit between the two
> > trunnions.
> > 12. Re-check the blade to miter slot measurement and if they are still
> > equal, re-tighten the rear trunnion bolts (ref #243).
> > 13. If the blade to miter slot measurements have changed, repeat steps 8
> > thru 12.
> >
> > .........................................End of Delta
> > Procedures............................................
> >
> > Without a diagram to look at this may be confusing but I suspect most of us
> > never thought about the tie-bar alignment steps 5 & 6. If these are not
> > parallel to each other then you can tap / hammer / move / and swear at it
> > until the cows come home and it will never align correctly. Move the blade
> > (up / down) then recheck alignment and you will find that you're out of
> > alignment again ! You must keep the trunnion brackets tight to the rest of
> > the mechanism.
> >
> > I'm off to find some grade 5 bolts, lockwashers and a flat plate (glass
> > maybe if I can't find a steel plate of some sort). I'll be reassembling and
> > aligning tonight. If I find a better or easier way, I'll make a follow-up
> > post and let you know what I did.
> >
> > If you try to contact Delta tech support, (800) 438-2486 you'll most likely
> > get a busy signal like I did for two days. Finally contacted HQ at (901)
> > 668-8600 and they paged tech support for me and he was on the line in less
> > than a minute. Course I was nice to the sweet young thing that answered the
> > call, told her I'd been trying for two days and could she help - sure 'nuff > > !
> >
> > I'll ding Delta for not including these procedures in the manual or at least
> > posting them on their web site but tech support (Ron) was very helpful and
> > friendly. He also gave me a few tips on how to adjust the blade height
> > (worm-gear) mechanism since mine is a bit to tight when raising/lowering the
> > blade.
> >
> > The worm-gear is pinned to a shaft that goes thru another guide-shaft that
> > has an off-center hole bored thru it. By loosening the nut near the
> > worm-gear end, the shaft (with the off-center bore) can be rotated which
> > adjusts the gear meshing clearance between the worm-gear and the gear-height
> > mechanism. Confusing explanation but when you look at the mechanism, it
> > will be clear to you.
> >
> > Hope all the above is useful to someone and provides a better explanation on
> > why we're having problems when making the blade to miter slot adjustment. > >
> > Bob S.
> Thanks for the info. Worked like a charm.

Well, after only seven years the url to the pdf is no longer valid. I don't suppose anyone has saved it?????

Not I, but found this, a number of hits.

Thanks Sonny. The first url is not applicable to my saw. The second is a very nice general instruction set. I followed Bob Sosenko's instruction. Checking the parallelism of the tie bars (Step 4) Using a feeler gauge I found the plate wobbled 0.0025 to 0.003 inches. After step 6 I could not effect any change. It's not apparent to me if my wobble is too big. Nor is apparent to me what step 6 is actually supposed to be doing. Maybethe trunnion bolts must also be loosened before doing step 6.

The Wayback Machine has it:

Mike B