Re: An Everlast, a Frued, and a Forrest WWII walk into a saw shop

Oh, man, what a deal on the saw, etc.! And you're gonna love the mesquite. Except for the MDF, probably any EverlastFruedForrest would do great. I know I love my ww2. Maybe buy a cheapie for the MDF. Buy more blades! And, yeah, all that other stuff. Tom Alan W. wrote; > Here is what I

Someday, it'll all be over....

Buy the link belt; you more than likely wil not need the machined pulleys and blade stabilizers. One note: Use 1/8" blades. They are thicker and therefore, flex less than thin kerf. It makes a BIG difference. I have had good luck with Milwaukee, Makita, Lee Valley, others. The extra thickness really helps unless you are running a weak, underpowered saw. Then the thin-kerf makes a difference. I have some Tenryu, Freud thin kerfs and while excellant blades are noticably more flexible than the 1/8" baldes.

So I put the CMT combo blade on my JTAS so that the ipe rail cap job that I'm doing will not cream my WWII that I keep on the saw. Milling 60' of fairly complicated railing out of 2x6, mostly curly, very dense ipe. The CMT is reasonably sharp, but fades about halfway through the initial rips (lots of work to push the Ipe through the saw...too much work). Looking with a small hand microscope, the silica in the ipe (which glitters like diamond after a crosscut) has eroded the edges of the CMT's teeth. I'll send it to Forrest for sharpening...from experience I know that it will come back without a trace of CMT logo or teflon, but much sharper than when factory new.

My Amana is out getting sharpened, so it's back to the WWII 10 x 30 that's been on for over a year, caked with resin from some pine. Already done more than it's fair share of Ipe, oak, 6061/6063, and Lexan. After the mill work (fills two 30 gallon Onieda dust bins with curly ipe dust and shavings - almost too heavy to lift), I pulled the blade, wash with Simple Green to clean all the resin gunk off, and put it back on. Test rip with some oak - still looks pretty much handplaned. Maybe I'll hold off on sending it in for sharpening.

Seems like I spent $85 at Woodcraft for that 10x30 during a 10% off sale. About 20 bucks more than the CMT or the two Oldhams I keep for tenoning (spacer set works well). $20 is about five double lattes, half a DC parking ticket, or about 60% of my monthly cable bill.

Come to think of it, I had a Freud and a WWII on the last table saw (a 20mm arbor Swiss Inca 259), and the WWII went 3 or 4 times longer than the Freud between grindings.

Todd, put that WWII on you saw for the Ipe... I cut Ipe quite often including resawing 5" wide Ipe boards and the WWII still stays sharp for a long time..

I spend about $22 per sharpening...the Forrest seems to last about 3-4 times longer than any of my other blades, so looking at life cycle cost, I'm a cheaper bastard than it might appear at first glance.

Ramsey wrote:

I have been using an Everlast bl;ade on walnut and am quite happy with it cost about $60.

There was a test on many blades in FWW issue #155 april 2002 including the forrest and everlast

mike hide

I ordered the woodworker II yesterday. It arrives in a week. 3d Saw blades has them on sale for $94.99 vs the regular $105.00

Ultimately it was a couple of items to push me over the top.

I sell Peterbilts, and I hear the laments of the Freightliner, Kenworth, etc.. owners wanting the "best".

No matter what you own for a street motorcycle, it's compared to a Harley.

I didn't want to wonder every time.. "I wonder how much better a Woodworker II would cut this edge..."

One never regrets buying the best.

Alan

So I guess you are going to mount that blade on a Northfield TS..

Most people I know would argue until they're blue in the face that Kenworths _are_ the best, and Peterbilts are a sad second or third place.

You and I know they're full of crap though. ;)

By what criteria other than poseur value are Harleys the best motorcycle? They are generally considered an over priced joke by the rest of the motorcycling community because of their low performance, poor handling and none to stellar reliability.

Are you implying by comparison that a WWII blade is also for poseurs rather than people who want a high performance blade?

Translation: you ride a Japanese motorcycle. :)

(No, I don't ride a Harley, nor any other motorized thing with two weels. I got my bicycle up to 45 mph once, and it scared the hell out of me. I don't want to do that on an overgrown bicycle. I'll settle for four wheels, but I'm more comfortable with at least 14.)

Their market share has dived below Peterbilt for quite a large number of months now... Now if you had purchased Paccar stock (PACR) at the end of last year, you and I would be laughing all the way to the bank!

Alan

What I ride or if I ride doesn't change anything. I was amused by your comment that Harleys were some kind of a standard for other motorcycles.

Criteria? For the most part, Harley riders use 1 critierion, and it's the same one that gets junior high student council presidents elected: Popularity. But that's a very strong influence for most people. What their friends ride, what their friends think is best.

No > > Rico wrote:

Not me, I'm getting a custom made chopper. Of course, I still have to save up the $40,000 for what I want and so far, all I have is a half dozen soda bottle to take back for the refund. Ed