I've been using one for about a year although given it's the only one
I've ever used it's difficult to say how it compares with others at its
price and/or cheaper/pricier ones.
However, it certainly does what it says on the tin and IMHO very well.
The sliding mechanism is still smooth and secure despite a *lot* of
use. If I had any gripes about it they'd be i) my laser couldn't be
aligned particularly well one axis - the range of adjustment was
slightly too limited, ii) in some configurations the motor body can
fowl the material clamp and given the limited positions available to
put the clamp this can cause problems, and iii) it may as well not have
the dust collection bag - the amount it collects is insignificant with
the amount that ends up on the floor. Regarding the laser, I don't
actually use it anymore - not because it's no good but I can get just
as good accuracy by pre-placing the blade.
The quality of cut is as smooth as you could imagine, and the accuracy
appears spot on (and repeatable) to me... apart from, of course, when I
buy banana wood from B&Q. Speed wise, like all mitre saws, you'll never
lift a hand saw again if you can use the mitre.
All-in-all it's a big thumbs up from me. I certainly don't expect to be
taking advantage of the 3 year guarantee which is one of the reasons I
felt safe buying it (not the implied quality, but rather the
hassle-free aspect of returning it).
P.S. Bought a B&Q folding mitre saw bench with adjustable height and
extending supports for £30 which I can also highly recommend.
I haven't had any experience with a PP Pro Mitre saw, but I have
purchased a circular saw and a jigsaw from them and I am very pleased
with both. Each one was around the 50-60 quid mark and so far so
Martin Carroll wrote:
Yes. You can do a rough check on this type of saw by seeing how much
sideways movement you can get out of the moving bits. Any slop on the
motor bearings or slide mechanism?
The other thing is the quality of the blade itself.
For accurate 90 and 45 degree cuts I line it up with a drawing square.
*Why is 'abbreviation' such a long word?
Dave Plowman firstname.lastname@example.org London SW
replying to Martin Carroll, Roger King wrote:
Great saw until you want to replace the blade. The blade that comes with the
saw is very poor quality but cannot be removed without cutting off the retaining
bolt head and drilling out the remaining shank of the bolt. Avoid unless you
intend to use the saw only a few times.
The thread holding the blade onto the spindle of a circular saw tightens in the in the
direction as the rotation of blade. If the blade was tightened in the other direction
result could be catastrophic with the blade unthreading itself from the saw simply
as a result of the rotation of the blade in use.
Think about it.
Because each use of the saw where the blade meets resistance effectively tightens
the spindle bolt, they can be buggers to loosen using the totally inadequate hex key
supplied in the box with the tool.
Therefore in order to loosen the blade is necessary to exert leverage either by using a
long ratchet handle with the appropriate hex head attached, gripping the long end of the
hex bar with a large pair of pliers, or using a short piece of steel conduit if
replying to Roger Mills, Roger King wrote:
Roger Mills - First thing I tried, but the factory fitting made it impossible.
Might have been unlucky with a Monday morning or Friday afternoon unit but worth
a caution to someone thinking of buying the saw. Check if the bolt can be
removed as soon as you have the saw home and return if it won't release.
So what happened when you tried? What tools did you use? How much torque
did you apply? Did you consider the possibility that it might be a
[Apologies if 'first thing I tried' applied to the left-hand thread
idea, but you didn't quote any of my previous post so I'm not quite sure
exactly what you're replying to.]
Back in the day getting a saw blade off me old B & D consisted in
clamping mole grips on the blade, jamming the whole lot against the saw
frame and using a socket and a long bar, or a shorter bar and a hammer.
I expected nothing less. That assembly had to take full moor torque
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