Sliding Compound Mitre Saw

    Hi Was Looking in B & Q today and they had a good looking Sliding Compound Mitre Saw there own power pro brand Looked Pretty Reasonable for the price £129.99 I Was Wandering if anyone had one of these and what they think of them oh yea its got a 3 year Warranty      Cheers Lenny

I Think they're exellent for the price,I've had mine for about three years now the blades still sharp, and I use mine about once a month in my handyman/carpentry business. They're not suitable for very fine work (anything smaller than a Dado rail) as they can splinter the cuts a bit, also they are quite heavy to lug around and noisy. But with practice you can get good accurate cuts with them so I would recommend it to any serious DIYer.

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Drivel swears by it for cutting waterpipe....

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They are very good for 110mm soil pipes. Perfectly straight cut.

Doctor Drivel wrote:
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Actually, they won't cut 110mm pipe. It just doesn't clear. (yes, I have tried)

On Wed, 18 Jan 2006 15:25:54 +0000 Grunff wrote :
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I haven't tried my Ryobi mitre saw on soil pipe but it cuts white hex gutter and downpipe brilliantly - factory standard square cuts. I suspect though that this might only be true of new material which has not begun to get brittle.

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Wrong saw then. Also you can turn the pipe. It is sort of round too.

On Wed, 18 Jan 2006 18:12:33 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
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If one is going to attempt either this or cutting of other plastic items such as gutters, *great care* should be taken.
- In an application like this hot plastic swarf can be ejected from the saw in more directions than is typical with sawdust from wood.
- Some plastics and components have a tendency to be or become more brittle after a time, especially when cold. There is some chance of pieces shattering off and being ejected at high speed.
- If the blade is a cheap and nasty one, as is common with entry level SCMS(to get the price down), or if it is less than sharp, or if one is careless in handling there is a chance of it catching on the material and ejecting it from the saw at high speed.
Given all of the above:
- Eye protection, which always makes sense anyway, is a very good idea
- Careful clamping of the workpiece rather than holding it by hand is also a Good Idea. It's a dumb idea, especially with a length of soil pipe to attempt to hold it on the saw and not have it properly supported and clamped
- A good blade is important. It is a worthwhile upgrade to any entry level SCMS to fit a decent blade such as a Freud or CMT one. This may cost a third of the price of the new saw but will make a useful difference in terms of accuracy and in this application, safety.
- Run the saw up to full speed and advance the blade *slowly* and steadily on the piece of plastic. If you move too quickly, there is a high risk of the piece being snatched and flung off of the table - too slow or blunt blade and the plastic will tend to melt.

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They have many different models.
I bought one with 255mm blade, twin slider bars and no laser. It works really well once adjusted up. Well impressed.
Definitely go for a model with twin metal sliders. A 255mm blade really helps out with larger pieces, too, especially anything thick, or tall skirting boards.
Christian.

Lenny Brown wrote:
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Buy the same saw for less.
http://tinyurl.com/9nuqj -- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote in message ...
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or even less than that! http://tinyurl.com/74oy7
Bob

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300mm cut. A laminate board is usually 300mm wide, so any of these I would forget.

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I got the PP Laser one, it was £ 79 from memory just test the angles on some scrap before cutting as the degrees and laser need some setting up between uses other than that, excellent!