Hi Was Looking in B & Q today and they had a good looking
Sliding Compound Mitre Saw there own power pro brand Looked Pretty
Reasonable for the price £129.99 I Was Wandering if anyone had one of
these and what they think of them oh yea its got a 3 year Warranty
Cheers Lenny
I Think they're exellent for the price,I've had mine for about three
years now the blades still sharp, and I use mine about once a month in
my handyman/carpentry business. They're not suitable for very fine work
(anything smaller than a Dado rail) as they can splinter the cuts a
bit, also they are quite heavy to lug around and noisy. But with
practice you can get good accurate cuts with them so I would recommend
it to any serious DIYer.
I haven't tried my Ryobi mitre saw on soil pipe but it cuts white hex
gutter and downpipe brilliantly - factory standard square cuts. I
suspect though that this might only be true of new material which has
not begun to get brittle.
--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk
Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm
On Wed, 18 Jan 2006 18:12:33 -0000, "Doctor Drivel"
If one is going to attempt either this or cutting of other plastic
items such as gutters, *great care* should be taken.
- In an application like this hot plastic swarf can be ejected from
the saw in more directions than is typical with sawdust from wood.
- Some plastics and components have a tendency to be or become more
brittle after a time, especially when cold. There is some chance of
pieces shattering off and being ejected at high speed.
- If the blade is a cheap and nasty one, as is common with entry level
SCMS(to get the price down), or if it is less than sharp, or if one is
careless in handling there is a chance of it catching on the material
and ejecting it from the saw at high speed.
Given all of the above:
- Eye protection, which always makes sense anyway, is a very good idea
- Careful clamping of the workpiece rather than holding it by hand is
also a Good Idea. It's a dumb idea, especially with a length of soil
pipe to attempt to hold it on the saw and not have it properly
supported and clamped
- A good blade is important. It is a worthwhile upgrade to any entry
level SCMS to fit a decent blade such as a Freud or CMT one. This may
cost a third of the price of the new saw but will make a useful
difference in terms of accuracy and in this application, safety.
- Run the saw up to full speed and advance the blade *slowly* and
steadily on the piece of plastic. If you move too quickly, there is a
high risk of the piece being snatched and flung off of the table - too
slow or blunt blade and the plastic will tend to melt.
They have many different models.
I bought one with 255mm blade, twin slider bars and no laser. It works
really well once adjusted up. Well impressed.
Definitely go for a model with twin metal sliders. A 255mm blade really
helps out with larger pieces, too, especially anything thick, or tall
skirting boards.
Christian.
I got the PP Laser one, it was £ 79 from memory
just test the angles on some scrap before cutting
as the degrees and laser need some setting up
between uses
other than that, excellent!
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