Re: 220V Magnetic switch problem

[Doug Miller]

Hi Doug,

> >Thank you very much for your help. The table saw is now working fine. > >It's true, I had my 2 breakers on the same leg. I moved one over on >the other leg and got my 220V just right.

If you're not using a tandem breaker, you still don't have it "just right".

*Please* get someone who understands this stuff to help you.

I've done a lot of >electrical work but it was mostly on the plain 110V. I also know very >well the Amp vs. wire gauge so there was no fire hazard... ;) in my >case. > >I just didn't know 220V had to be taken from the 2 legs... I guess we >learn something new everyday...

Once again, no offense intended --- but if you didn't know that, you had _no_business_ trying to wire a 220V circuit. Please at least get a book on residential wiring and bring yourself up to speed before you do any more.

>Again, thank you very much for your help, it's appreciated.

You're welcome -- I hope you don't create problems.

> >Greg D. > > > >> >>>>>Hi Doug, >>> >>>Maybe you've spot the problem... >>> >>>I get a reading of 0V between the 2 hots. >>> >>>Here's my setup. I have a subpanel of 60Amps (4 x 15AMps breakers) in >>>my workshop. This subpanel get its current from the main panel via a >>>30Amps / 10-3 wire. The red and the black wires are on 2 different >>>15Amps breaker (in the main panel) and they feed 2 x 15Amps breakers >>>on each side. >> >>It's time to stop what you're doing, and get a book on residential electrical >>wiring -- or call a pro, or at least a buddy who understands this stuff. You >>don't. No offense intended, but you don't. And messing around with electricity > >>when you don't understand it can get you KILLED. >> >>In order to have a 220V circuit, you must have the two hot conductors coming >>off of opposite legs of your service. It appears that your two 15A breakers >>feeding the subpanel are on the *same* leg of the service. The only thing that > >>keeps this from being a *serious* fire hazard is the 10-3 wire: you could be >>putting as much as 30A of current on the neutral conductor in that 10-3 cable; > >>fortunately, that's OK -- but if you should ever swap those 15A breakers for >>30s, you've got major trouble. >>> >>>I combined 2 15Amps breakers (the two in the middle) so each of them >>>are on one 15 Amps breaker in the main panel. >> >>It's not at all clear to me what you mean by this. >> >>> I then fed my 220V >>>outlet (for the tablesaw) with those 2 hot wires (110V each). >>> >>>Should I leave the voltmeter in the same settings to read the voltage >>>between two hot wires? >> >>Probably, but that depends on your voltmeter. Make sure that it's capable of >>measuring 250V. >>> >>>Thanks for helping me through this... >> >>Again, no offense intended, but IMO you should stop what you're doing, and >>bring in someone who understands it. If you happen to be in the Indianapolis >>area, I can drop by... >>> >>> >>>Benoit >>> >>> >>>>>> >>>>>>>>>Hi Doug, >>>>> >>>>>Yes, I do have 110V on each of them. >>>> >>>>That's not the point -- what is the voltage *between* the two hot wires? Not > >>>>the voltage from each one to ground. The voltage from hot to hot. If they > are >>>>both on the same leg of your service, they'll each measure 110V to ground or > >>>>neutral, but *zero* between them. >>>> >>>>> I even looked at the switch and >>>>>on both ends I have 110V. Looks like the current doesn't go through >>>>>from the switch. That's why I'm wondering if there's something that >>>>>prevents the switch from closing the circuit. >>>> >>>>Well, my first guess is that there is indeed something preventing the switch > >>>>from closing the circuit, and that "something" is that there isn't 220V >>>>present between the two hot conductors. >>>>> >>>>>Since it's a magnetic switch, maybe there's a reset button inside I >>>>>can trigger and make it work. >>>> >>>>Check the voltage between the two hot conductors: is it 220V, or zero? >>>>> >>>>>Thanks for helping! >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>Benoit >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>I'm trying to wire my new cabinet saw for 220V. Got the 220V outlet, >>>>>>>installed the power cord onto the magnetic switch on the table saw >>>>>>>exactly as shown in the diagram. >>>>>>> >>>>>>>For those interested in the details, I've got a General cabinet saw >>>>>>>(the Canada made one) and connected my power cord to the L1 and L3 >>>>>>>screws. Each one gets its 110V of power. The meter reads properly but >>>>>>>it doesn't seem that the power reaches the other side to make the >>>>>>>motor run. I released the stop button and push the green one just to >>>>>>>see nothing. I even pushed the thermal reset button on the motor just >>>>>>>in case and still nothing. >>>>>>> >>>>>>>Does anyone here have an idea what to do? Is there any special thing >>>>>>>to do the first time you start it? >>>>>> >>>>>>Is your 220V circuit wired correctly? That is, do you really have 220V? >>> Check >>>>>>the voltage between L1 and L3. Do you see 220, or zero?

[Mike Marlow]

Although everything else Pop posted with regard to the OP's wiring situation is true, this one statement is not at all true. In most states, (if not all), you are covered once your policy is instated. Insurance companies must, and do pay for stupidity every day. Fires are investigated every day and Cause & Origin Teams find faulty wiring to be the cause - every day. Insurance policies pay off against these claims - every day. There is a lot of urban legend surround insurance policy coverage but you would have to look far and wide to find any substantial number of claims denied for homeowner stupidity. Ask an adjuster when the last time was that they actually saw a claim denied for faulty wiring.

[Frank Slootweg]

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[Tim Skirvin]

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[Jeff Johnson]

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[Russ Allbery]

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[Brian Henderson]

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[Mike in Arkansas]

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[Pop]

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message news:30b81$446876b8$452895cb$ [e-mail]...

Which state is which isn't relevant to this post, and only implies a false sense of knowledge on the part of the poster.

Stupidity is NOT the same as intentional miswiring, nor is wiring allowed to be done by unqualified personnel. They certainly will refuse to pay, especially if the fire or insurance investigator turns it up and finds the situation at hand: You are dead wrong.

Faulty wiring is NOT miswiring caused by unqulaified personnel, who violated code. Huge differenct. You've gone outside your area of knowledge here.

Some, actually very few, insurance companies pay off of fraudulent claims, which is what you are defining. If wiring has not been inspected and logged accordingly, the insurance companies can and do/will take a hands off atitude toward the claim.

Again, "homeowner stupidity" is A LOT MORE THAN JUST when an unqualified person installs wiring incorrectly. And you can bet your bottom dollar that when the death or fire or lawsuit caused by a miswired, non-code, probably inherently unsafe connection which has not had proper inspections performed, is discovered, the insurance company will indeed wash their hands of the whole thing. I suggest this poster go and closely read his policy in full, not just the little hype verbiage received with it. Read the entire thing and you'll see just how easy it is for an insurance company to refuse a claim. Your claim.

"Substantial" is an irrelevent and non-definitive word here. If YOU are among the ten of a thousand or more who miswired your home and burnt it down or electrocuted someone, or were sued because someone received a bad shock, known as electrocution (electrocution does not mean it killed), you had better have some pretty deep pockets because your insurance won't help the second they discover the non-code intentional installation of sub-standard wiring techniques. Now, I CAN INDEED (and have done so before) talk to a Code Enforcement Officer who can cite such cases, and my neighbor, an insurance broker, not an insurance salesman, can corroborate and has corroborated such stories in the past. These things even make the newspapers, of course. A few years back, a men's clothing store owner burned down his building. At the same time, he accidentally also burned down a neighboring apartment building. I'll bet you think the apartment building owner's insurance the tenant's property insurances all paid off, don't you? You would be dead wrong! Those several insurance companies got together and sued the clothing store owner, HIS insurance company, the code enforcement office, and some others I no longer recall. Of course, the arsonist owner went to jail for 5 years. How do I know all this? I knew BOTH owners. I went to school with the arsonist. I was in the same club as the apt bldg owner. And, it was well covered in the papers and radio for over a year while they kept on discovering new things about the fire. It took 8 months to prove it was arson, but they did it. Think how easy it is to trace a 220 service back to two unconnected, improperly installed ckt brkrs.

And finally, of COURSE the numbers of these events are small! The majority of people DO IT RIGHT, OR GET IT RIGHT, OR HAVE IT DONE RIGHT. Unlike you, who seems to think that because the majority don't go to jail, or lose their life earnings, simply because of the sheer ignorance you posted.

Don't cry fire in front of a fireman when it's a load of crap that you're pusing out; people like you are disgusting and obviously trolling, which means that I have nothing further to say to you or to read from you.

[Tom Watson]

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[Tom Watson]

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[Larry Blanchard]

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