Hi Doug,
>
>Thank you very much for your help. The table saw is now working fine. >
>It's true, I had my 2 breakers on the same leg. I moved one over on
>the other leg and got my 220V just right.
If you're not using a tandem breaker, you still don't have it "just right".
*Please* get someone who understands this stuff to help you.
I've done a lot of
>electrical work but it was mostly on the plain 110V. I also know very
>well the Amp vs. wire gauge so there was no fire hazard... ;) in my >case. >
>I just didn't know 220V had to be taken from the 2 legs... I guess we
>learn something new everyday...
Once again, no offense intended --- but if you didn't know that, you had _no_business_ trying to wire a 220V circuit. Please at least get a book on residential wiring and bring yourself up to speed before you do any more.
>Again, thank you very much for your help, it's appreciated.
You're welcome -- I hope you don't create problems.
>
>Greg D.
>
>
>
>>
>>>>>Hi Doug,
>>>
>>>Maybe you've spot the problem...
>>>
>>>I get a reading of 0V between the 2 hots.
>>>
>>>Here's my setup. I have a subpanel of 60Amps (4 x 15AMps breakers) in
>>>my workshop. This subpanel get its current from the main panel via a
>>>30Amps / 10-3 wire. The red and the black wires are on 2 different
>>>15Amps breaker (in the main panel) and they feed 2 x 15Amps breakers >>>on each side.
>>
>>It's time to stop what you're doing, and get a book on residential electrical
>>wiring -- or call a pro, or at least a buddy who understands this stuff. You
>>don't. No offense intended, but you don't. And messing around with electricity >
>>when you don't understand it can get you KILLED.
>>
>>In order to have a 220V circuit, you must have the two hot conductors coming
>>off of opposite legs of your service. It appears that your two 15A breakers
>>feeding the subpanel are on the *same* leg of the service. The only thing that >
>>keeps this from being a *serious* fire hazard is the 10-3 wire: you could be
>>putting as much as 30A of current on the neutral conductor in that 10-3 cable; >
>>fortunately, that's OK -- but if you should ever swap those 15A breakers for
>>30s, you've got major trouble.
>>>
>>>I combined 2 15Amps breakers (the two in the middle) so each of them
>>>are on one 15 Amps breaker in the main panel.
>>
>>It's not at all clear to me what you mean by this.
>>
>>> I then fed my 220V
>>>outlet (for the tablesaw) with those 2 hot wires (110V each).
>>>
>>>Should I leave the voltmeter in the same settings to read the voltage
>>>between two hot wires?
>>
>>Probably, but that depends on your voltmeter. Make sure that it's capable of
>>measuring 250V.
>>>
>>>Thanks for helping me through this...
>>
>>Again, no offense intended, but IMO you should stop what you're doing, and
>>bring in someone who understands it. If you happen to be in the Indianapolis
>>area, I can drop by...
>>>
>>>
>>>Benoit
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>Hi Doug,
>>>>>
>>>>>Yes, I do have 110V on each of them.
>>>>
>>>>That's not the point -- what is the voltage *between* the two hot wires? Not >
>>>>the voltage from each one to ground. The voltage from hot to hot. If they > are
>>>>both on the same leg of your service, they'll each measure 110V to ground or >
>>>>neutral, but *zero* between them.
>>>>
>>>>> I even looked at the switch and
>>>>>on both ends I have 110V. Looks like the current doesn't go through
>>>>>from the switch. That's why I'm wondering if there's something that
>>>>>prevents the switch from closing the circuit.
>>>>
>>>>Well, my first guess is that there is indeed something preventing the switch >
>>>>from closing the circuit, and that "something" is that there isn't 220V
>>>>present between the two hot conductors.
>>>>>
>>>>>Since it's a magnetic switch, maybe there's a reset button inside I
>>>>>can trigger and make it work.
>>>>
>>>>Check the voltage between the two hot conductors: is it 220V, or zero? >>>>>
>>>>>Thanks for helping!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Benoit
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>I'm trying to wire my new cabinet saw for 220V. Got the 220V outlet,
>>>>>>>installed the power cord onto the magnetic switch on the table saw
>>>>>>>exactly as shown in the diagram.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>For those interested in the details, I've got a General cabinet saw
>>>>>>>(the Canada made one) and connected my power cord to the L1 and L3
>>>>>>>screws. Each one gets its 110V of power. The meter reads properly but
>>>>>>>it doesn't seem that the power reaches the other side to make the
>>>>>>>motor run. I released the stop button and push the green one just to
>>>>>>>see nothing. I even pushed the thermal reset button on the motor just
>>>>>>>in case and still nothing.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Does anyone here have an idea what to do? Is there any special thing
>>>>>>>to do the first time you start it?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Is your 220V circuit wired correctly? That is, do you really have 220V? >>> Check
>>>>>>the voltage between L1 and L3. Do you see 220, or zero?